Homemade Spätzle and Baden-Baden, Germany

A recipe for Homemade Spätzle inspired by my time in Baden-Baden, Germany! These light and fluffy Spaetzle come together with only four ingredients and a wooden board.

Disclosure: Accommodations, meals, and transportation were provided by the German National Tourist Board. All comments and opinions are my own.

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I spent a few days in Germany last month with Melinda Fulmer, a lifestyle writer, editor, and my cousin!

It was a whirlwind trip with a couple of nights each in Frankfurt am Main, Baden-Baden, Blaubeuren, Augsburg, and Bad Ems.

I am starting today with our time in Baden-Baden along with a recipe for Homemade Spätzle inspired by our travels.

Baden-Baden

Baden-Baden is a beautiful and relaxing spa town in Baden-Württemberg on the edge of the Schwarzwald (Black Forest) and near the French border in southwestern Germany.

The town was founded by the Romans over 2,000 years ago and originally called Aquae due to the presence of the twelve thermal springs. The name was officially changed to Baden-Baden in 1931, though it was used for many years prior. Doubling the word Baden helped to differentiate it from the Swiss and Austrian towns with the same name.

Baden-Baden became part of the “Great Spa Towns of Europe” UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2021. Along with the beautiful spas and architecture, it is also home to premium hiking trails, gardens, museums, the Kurhaus, the Baden-Baden Philharmonic Orchestra, shopping, gourmet dining, bakeries, and cafes.

We only had 1 1/2 days, but about 3 days or a long weekend would be perfect to enjoy the town at a leisurely pace.

Melinda and I took the train directly from Frankfurt Airport (FRA) to Mannheim Hbf, then Mannheim to Baden-Baden. The travel time along this route is generally 1 1/2-2 1/2 hours.

If using the trains at all, I highly recommend downloading the Deutsche Bahn app and getting a Flexpreis ticket for more flexibility. The app is available in English and it is easy to search for additional trains along the route in case a train is late and/or a tight connection is missed.

We took a taxi from the train station to the hotel, but the 201 Bus can also be used to get to the city center (Leopoldsplatz).

If driving, it is about 159 kilometers (99 miles) from Frankfurt am Main, 120 kilometers (75 miles) from Kaiserslautern, and 99 kilometers (62 miles) from Stuttgart.

Karlsruhe/Baden-Baden Airport (FKB) is also 18 kilometers (11 miles) to the west.

Most of the town is walkable with pedestrian friendly areas and sidewalks.

Buses are available throughout the city center and further afield for the train station, Merkur Funicular Railway (to reach the highest point in Baden-Baden with views of the city, Black Forest and Rhine Valley), and Kloster Lichtenthal.

Hotel Belle Epoque

During our time in Baden-Baden, we stayed at Hotel Belle Epoque. This charming boutique hotel at Maria-Viktoria-Straße 2C has 33 rooms and suites, each unique with its own style and character. The junior suites are even equipped with a jacuzzi.

The location was quiet and relaxing with a view of the courtyard from our room, but still close to most of the notable sights.

Room rates include Wi-Fi, telephone calls within Germany, a European/American buffet breakfast, plus complementary afternoon tea.

For an additional cost, you can enjoy a 3 course meal at their sister hotel‘s restaurant, Der Kleine Prinz.

During our afternoon tea, I had a slice of Marmorkuchen (Marble Cake)!

The breakfast spread had a variety of cereal, fresh fruit, jam, bread, cold cuts, cheese, eggs, tea, coffee, and juice.

Caracalla Spa

After dropping off our luggage at the hotel, our first stop was Caracalla Spa (Caracalla Therme) at Römerplatz 1. It was such a relaxing experience after the plane and train rides.

Named after the Roman Emperor Caracalla, this location is a great option for those new to using German spas. The ground level (must be at least 7 years old) requires a swimsuit while the upstairs sauna is adult only and textile free.

It is open daily (last admission 1 1/2 hours before closing) with signs in German, English, French, and Russian. For the best experience, plan to spend around 3 hours here (or up to the whole day).

The thermal water comes from a depth of 2,000 meters and the temperatures range from 18°C (64˚F) to 38°C (100˚F). There are both indoor and outdoor areas with hot and cold water grottoes, an aroma steam bath, halotherapy salt inhalation room, marble pools, whirlpools, and a sunbathing area.

Rizzi the Restaurant

That evening, we had dinner at Rizzi The Restaurant. It was an easy 400 meter (1/4 mile) walk from our hotel.

The menu features a variety of starters, seafood, meat, vegetables, desserts, and drinks with French and Italian Mediterranean influences. They also have a couple of vegetarian/vegan options. Reservations are available through their website.

We ordered the:

• 2021 Grauburgunder | Siegbert Bimmerle | Baden
• Oktopus- Gegrillt- mit Süßkartoffelpüree, Pimientos, Spitzpaprika-Harissa und Oliven Tapenade (Grilled octopus with sweet potato purée, peppers, paprika harissa, and olive tapenade)
• Wiener Schnitzel vom Kalb <Metzgerei Krug> und lauwarmer Kartoffelsalat Grandma Style (Veal Wiener Schnitzel with potato salad)
• Tiramisu Made with Love
• Beautiful Disaster- Panna Cotta, Aprikosen Sorbet, Meringue und frische Aprikosen.

Lichtentaler Allee

The next morning, we started our day with a scenic walk through Lichtentaler Allee.

Stretching 2.3 kilometers (1 1/2 miles) from Kloster Lichtenthal to Kurhaus Kolonnaden along the Oosbach (river Oos), this park is filled with beautiful scenery, native plants, a Dahlia Garden, and events year-round.

It was quiet in the morning, but lively in the afternoon with dogs playing in the river and people relaxing in the sun.

Kurhaus Colonnade

The Kurhaus Colonnade (Kurhaus Kolonnaden) was originally built in 1867-68 and modeled after the shopping arcades of Paris.

It has two rows of boutiques featuring luxury brands, chocolate, jewelry, clothing, tourist information, and more.

Kurhaus

The Kurhaus at Kaiserallee 1 was built between 1821-1824 and designed by Friedrich Weinbrenner.

It is home to banquet and conference rooms, a restaurant, concert pavilion, special events, and Germany’s oldest casino.

We took a guided tour of the casino during the day. Modeled after royal French palaces, each room is ornately decorated with stunning chandeliers, dramatic colors, and painted ceilings.

Entry is only allowed for those 21 and over (must have passport/valid ID). The dress code is smart casual. Men are asked to wear a jacket, shirt, and tie. Jackets are available to rent for a fee.

Each room has a theme with roulette, blackjack, poker and slot machines.

Also attached to the casino is Club Bernstein, a stylish lounge, and The Grill, a restaurant specializing in sushi and beef.

Trinkhalle

Just a short walk from the Kurhaus is the Trinkhalle, a gorgeous building lined with Corinthian pillars and 14 murals by Jakob Götzenberger.

This impressive pump room was built between 1839-1842 and houses a drinking fountain (no longer recommended for consumption) with thermal water.

Café König

After touring the casino, we stopped by Café König for lunch. Located in the city center at Lichtentaler Straße 12, the cafe has outdoor and indoor seating along with a beautiful assortment of desserts in the adjoining shop.

It was supposed to be a light meal, but we were immediately drawn in by the gorgeous cakes. They also have tea, coffee, hot chocolate, and small/larger meals.

We ordered a couple of Petit Fours (the hedgehog was absolutely adorable), the iconic Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte (Black Forest Cake), Mozart-Kaffee (doppelter Espresso mit Orangenlikör, Sahne und Krokant/ double espresso with orange liqueur, cream, and nut brittle), Badische Hochzeitssuppe (feine Tafelspitzbrühe mit Grießnockerln, Flädle und Eierstich/ Baden Wedding Soup with beef broth, semolina dumplings, pancake pieces, and egg), and Quiche Lorraine.

I really want to learn how to make the Badische Hochzeitssuppe at home sometime soon. It was so incredibly comforting and perfect for a slightly chilly fall day. The Mozart-Kaffee was fantastic as well.

New Castle

The New Castle (Neues Schloss) at Schloßstraße 22 towers over the spa buildings and is the former home of Margraves of Baden.

It is now privately owned and not available for touring, but the terrace has some incredible views overlooking Baden-Baden.

Friedrichsbad

I did not visit Friedrichsbad, but Melinda spent the afternoon there after lunch. Next door to Caracalla Therme, Friedrichsbad is a 146 year old textile-free Roman-Irish spa.

A towel, soap, and bath slippers are included with admission. They state in the brochure, “no need to bring anything- except time for yourself!” For the best experience, allow for at least 3 hours to enjoy the sequence of 17 different stations.

The hours were limited, but the 2,000 year old Roman bath ruins are under Römerplatz and available to tour (audioguides in German, English and French).

Mäx und Moritz

While Melinda was in Friedrichsbad, I walked around Baden-Baden and came across Mäx und Moritz.

Located at Sophienstraße 9, this family bookstore focuses on children’s and young adult literature, games/toys, plus a few cookbooks and gardening books.

I was looking for a regional cookbook and they recommended Schwarzwald Reloaded (book one of four, in German). This cookbook features some exciting interpretations of modern Black Forest cuisine from 30 southwest German chefs along with gorgeous photography.

Geroldsauer Mühle

On our second evening in Baden-Baden, we had dinner at Geroldsauer Mühle. It is accessible via car, taxi, or bus to Geroldsauer Str. 54 about 4 kilometers (2.5 miles) south of the city center.

Along with the regional specialties in their restaurant, Geroldsauer Mühle has a market, bakery, and butcher shop with a fantastic collection of food, wine, and decorations from the surrounding area.

It is also housed in the largest silver fir building in Europe.

The restaurant’s menu is in German with English and French menus available via QR code.

We enjoyed the:

• Käsespätzle mit Bergkäse gratiniert, Röstzwiebeln und kleiner Blattsalat (cheese Spätzle with mountain cheese, roasted onions, and a small salad)
• Ofenfrischer Zwiebelkuchen (oven fresh onion cake/pie)
• Wiener Schnitzel vom Kalb- in Almbutter gebraten- mit Lauwarmer Kartoffelsalat und Preiselbeeren (Veal schnitzel with potato salad and cranberries)
• Schwarzwaldliebe (rote Beerengrütze mit Vanillerahmeis und Schlagrahm/ Black Forest Love: red berries, vanilla ice cream, and whipped cream).

Since the timing of our trip was absolutely perfect, we paired the Zwiebelkuchen with Federweißer/Neuer Wein. Geroldsauer Mühle had both Roter Federweißer and the more common white variety.

Translating to new wine or feather white, this young wine has a short season from the end of September to October. Different regions have different names for the wine. The name Federweißer from the yeast particles. Since it is still actively fermenting, the Wein has a cloudy appearance with a light and fruity, sweet taste.

The actual alcohol content varies, but it becomes Neuer Wein once the level reaches 4% (it can be as high as 11%). The bottles are only partially sealed and unstable (plus are only Neuer Wein for a few days), so they can’t be exported.

Peter’s Gute Backstube

My last stop in Baden-Baden was Peter’s Gute Backstube for a few pastries before our train ride to Blaubeuren. I went to the Lichtentaler Straße 17 shop, but there are a few surrounding locations.

There were so many delicious options, but I decided on the Nusskrawatte (layers of pastry with ground nuts and a sweet glaze), Blätterteig Apfeltasche (Puff Pastry Apple Turnover), Laugenbrezel, and Laugenbagel (soft pretzel crust with sesame seeds).

It was the perfect end to our time in this beautiful town.

Homemade Spätzle

Spätzle is a childhood favorite and I have included a few variations on the blog over the years. Translating to little sparrows in German, this pasta or small dumpling is created with a thick, flour/egg-based batter and can be found throughout Central Europe.

I usually make Spätzle with a Spätzlepresse or Spätzlehobel, but I was inspired to finally try Spätzle handgeschabt vom Brett (Homemade Spätzle hand scraped from the board) after enjoying the Käsespätzle at Geroldsauer Mühle and elsewhere during our time in Baden-Württemberg.

Using the Spätzlebrett (Spätzle Board) involves some extra practice compared to a press, but creates such a fantastic texture and rustic look. This wooden board is thin enough to fit into a large pot with a handle on one end and a curved edge at the other. It took me at least 3 batches to get a generally uniform size and I’ve had so much Spätzle over the last month.

The trick is to spread the batter into a thin, even layer across the wet board and scrap thin pieces into the water. Wet the scraper often and the board between batches. Only work with a little batter at a time, no more than 2 tablespoons, when trying this technique at first.

Once the scraped pieces rise to the top of the simmering water, remove with a strainer, rinse in cold water, and drain.

Repeat with the remaining batter, then serve the Homemade Spätzle immediately or refrigerate in an airtight container for up to a couple of days.

Notable Ingredients

I formed the dough with sparkling water for an extra lightness, but sometimes swap for regular water (or milk if you want a richer flavor). Compared to pasta dough, the batter for Spätzle has more liquid to easily allow it to be pressed through holes or scraped off of a board.

You can make this Homemade Spätzle recipe with either all-purpose flour or Weizenmehl Type 405. In Germany, you can even get a specific Spätzle flour (Spätzlemehl).

I had some spelt flour (Dinkelmehl) on hand while working on a Seelen recipe (more on that soon!) and the resulting Dinkelspätzle is now a part of my regular rotation.

A Few Spätzle Tips

If the batter is too thick to easily scrap into the pot, thin it with about 1 teaspoon of water at a time. If it is too thin to hold its shape, add a little more flour. The consistency should be a little thicker than pancake batter.

Beat the dough well when mixing in the eggs and water. This will help add in air to create a light and fluffy texture.

Wet the board and scraper well between batches. This will keep the batter from sticking.

Add the batter to the water in batches. They cook quickly and this will give you enough time to remove the first cooked Spätzle at the perfect texture before forming the next set.

This recipe can easily be doubled for more servings, but I recommend getting used to the technique before working with a larger batch.

If you aren’t serving them right away, you can very briefly shock the cooked Spätzle in a bowl of cold water and drain to keep them from sticking together.

Spätzle Serving Ideas

There are many different ways you can enjoy the homemade Spätzle. In its most basic form, you can simply toss with a little melted butter and serve as a side or use it as the base for a main meal.

It is delicious alongside Rinderrouladen or Sauerbraten. You can even pair it with lentils to make the Schwäbische Linsen mit Spätzle.

Käsespätzle

My favorite use is Käsespätzle (or Kässpätzle). As I cook the batches of Spätzle, I layer them in a cast iron skillet or oven safe dish with freshly shredded Emmentaler and/or Gruyère.

Once layered, bake in a 400˚F (200˚C) oven until the cheese is melted (about 15-20 minutes), then serve with pan-fried onions.

Spätzle-Rösti

The cookbook I picked up in Mäx und Moritz, Schwarzwald Reloaded, had a fun idea for Spätzle-Rösti. Instead of the traditional potato, these Rösti are prepared with Spätzle!

The cooked or leftover Spätzle is tossed with egg, fresh herbs, and a little cream cheese, then panfried dollops until golden on each side.

It is definitely a new favorite.

If you are looking for more ideas, you can also use the Homemade Spätzle in my Spätzle mit Pilzen (German Spaetzle with Mushrooms) and Spätzlesalat (German Spaetzle Pasta Salad).

Homemade Spätzle Recipe

Adapted from Die Schwäbische Küche

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5 from 5 votes

Homemade Spätzle

A recipe for Homemade Spätzle inspired by Baden-Baden, Germany! These light and fluffy Spaetzle come together with only four ingredients and a wooden board.

Course Side Dish

Cuisine German

Keyword dumpling, German, Germany, pasta, spaetzle, spätzle

Prep Time 20 minutes minutes

Cook Time 5 minutes minutes

Resting Time: 20 minutes minutes

Total Time 45 minutes minutes

Servings 2 -4 Servings

Ingredients

• 1 1/2 cups (190 grams) all-purpose or spelt flour
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 2 large eggs
• 1/2 cup (120 grams) sparkling water

Instructions

• In a large bowl, sift together the flour and salt.
• Use a wooden spoon to vigorously mix in the eggs and water to create a thick batter with no lumps.
• As you are mixing, the dough should become elastic with air bubbles forming as it pulls from the edges.
• If the dough is too thick to easily spread across the board, add a little more water. If too thin to hold its shape, add a little more flour.
• Cover and allow to rest at room temperature for 10-20 minutes.
• Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, then reduce to a simmer.
• Wet the board and scraper with the water, then spread about 2 tablespoons (30 milliliters) of the batter in a thin layer across the lower half of the board.
• Angle the board just above the simmering water and use the scraper to cut thin strips of the dough into the water.
• Stir gently to remove any pieces from the bottom of the pot. Cook until they float to the top, remove with a strainer, rinse with cold water, drain, and set aside. Repeat with remaining batter.
• Serve immediately or refrigerate in an airtight container for up to a couple of days.