A recipe for Kartoffelknödel (German Potato Dumplings) inspired by my time in Augsburg, Germany! Cooked potatoes are combined with eggs and potato starch, formed into balls, and lightly simmered until tender.
Disclosure: Accommodations, meals, and transportation were provided by the German National Tourist Board. All comments and opinions are my own. This post contains Amazon affiliate links. If you purchase something through the link, I may receive a small commission at no extra charge to you.
Last October, I spent a few days in Germany with Melinda Fulmer, a lifestyle writer, editor, and my cousin!
It was a whirlwind trip with two nights each in Frankfurt am Main, Baden-Baden, Blaubeuren, Augsburg, and Bad Ems.
Today I am featuring our third stop, Augsburg, with a recipe for Kartoffelknödel (German Potato Dumplings)!
Check out my previous posts:
Augsburg
One of the oldest cities in Germany, Augsburg was founded in 15 BC as Augusta Vindelicorum (named after the Roman Emperor Augustus) and joined the Kingdom of Bavaria in 1806 following the end of the Holy Roman Empire.
It is now the third largest city in Bayern (Bavaria) and the largest along the Romantische Straße (Romantic Road).
Augsburg was recognized in 2019 as a World Heritage Size for its Water Management System.
It is also known for its textiles. I actually bought the towel under the plate of Kartoffelknödel in this post while in Augsburg. It was made by TIM (Staatliches Textil- und Industriemuseum Augsburg).
The city’s history has been significantly shaped by notable families such as the Fugger, Welser, and Mozart.
I was particularly drawn to the city center’s historical architecture with vivid artwork and greenery blended throughout.
The pedestrian-friendly streets are lined with both historical and modern chain shops, bakeries, and traditional Swabian and Bavarian restaurants alongside new interpretations and plenty of street food with international flavors.
Augsburg is located about 66 kilometers (41 miles) west of Munich (easy day trip!), 150 kilometers (93 miles) south of Nuremberg, and 163 kilometers (101 miles) east of Stuttgart.
We arrived via two trains from Blaubeuren with a transfer at Ulm. The trip was a little over an hour.
A note on the German train system: If using the trains at all, I highly recommend downloading the Deutsche Bahn app and getting a Flexpreis ticket for more flexibility.
The app is available in English and it is easy to search for additional trains along the route (same day) in case a train is late and/or a tight connection is missed.
City Hotel Ost am Kö
During our time in Augsburg, we stayed at City Hotel Ost am Kö.
This family-run hotel is located in the heart of Augsburg at Fuggerstraße 4-6, about 750 meters (1/2 mile) east of the train station. Everything we visited within this post was in walking distance. Taxis and local transportation are also available.
City Hotel Ost am Kö is home to 52 guest rooms and a sauna. The rooms are accessible by both stairs and a pair of elevators.
Check-in is available after 3 pm with check-out by 11 am. We arrived a little early and they were able to hold our luggage in a room behind the front desk.
Reservations can be made via phone or through their website.
Our cozy Einzelzimmer Komfort (Single comfort) room had two twin beds, a desk, bathroom with shower, television, mini bar, and free WiFi. Ninety percent of the rooms have air conditioning (ours was one of them) with mobile air conditioners available on request.
We did not have a car, but there is a parking garage next door for a discounted rate. There is also a possibility to store bicycles.
The breakfast was one of our favorites while in Germany and definitely a highlight of our stay.
Each morning, the dining room was filled with multiple spreads of bread (including pretzels!), cold cuts, an abundance of cheese, fruit, jams, small bites, coffee, tea, and other drinks until 12 pm.
Thalia
While waiting to check into our room, I walked along Annastraße behind the hotel and came across the bookshop, Thalia.
Thalia is a bookstore chain with locations across Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. The shop at Annastraße 21-23 has a large selection of cookbooks downstairs mostly in German with a few in English.
It was so fun to see the German version of many favorites I have featured here on the blog.
I also picked up copies of Das Maultaschen Manifest and Die schwäbische Küche to take home.
Eilles
Just a few doors down Annastraße from Thalia is Eilles! This shop with locations across southern Germany has shelves packed with a variety of specialty chocolate, coffee, tea, and wine.
I picked up some Elisenlebkuchen and chocolates to take back to the kids.
Stadtmarkt Augsburg
One of my personal favorite areas of Augsburg is the local market, Stadtmarkt Augsburg. It is next door to St. Anna Kirche and a quick 130 meter walk from City Hotel Ost am Kö.
This city market has grown from a market hall in Roman times to a 10,000 square meter central market in 1930 to now over 100 vendors with a variety of shopping, eating, and drinking both indoors and outdoors.
The Augsburger Stadtmarkt has booths filled with fresh produce, flowers, baked treats, spices, meat, seafood, cheese, international specialties, textiles, and more.
There are also a few options for sit-down meals.
It is currently open year-round with the city market 7am-6pm Monday/Friday and 7am-2pm Saturday (closed on Sunday). The farmers’ market section is open 7am-2pm Monday-Saturday.
After walking around the market, we stopped by Fritts Pommesliebe for a snack to hold us over until dinner.
We ordered the Fritts Rocks (fries, pulled pork, BBQ sauce, and fried onions), Fritts with ketchup and mayonnaise, and a couple glasses of Grauburgunder.
The fries were cooked perfectly and it was the perfect spot to relax for a few minutes.
We especially loved KunstAUXomat, a repurposed vending machine against a brick wall featuring local art. For €4, you get a small package filled with either a painting, sculpture, or other artwork with information about the artist.
The small size of each piece makes them perfect for a memorable souvenir that easily fits in a suitcase.
Brauhaus Riegele
During our first evening in Augsburg, we had a wonderful dinner at Riegele Wirtshaus.
Brauhaus Riegele traces its beginnings all the way back to 1386 and was named German brewery of the year in 2017, 2018, and 2019.
The restaurant is located near the train station at Frölichstraße 26 with a Biergarten during the warmer months. Reservations are available through their website.
The food was fantastic and such a great start to our stay. We ordered the following:
- Unsere krosse Schweinshaxe in Natursoß mit Kartoffelknödel. 900g Bayerische Lebensfreude- Our crispy pork knuckle in natural sauce with potato dumplings. 2 lbs Bavarian joy of life.
- Strohschweinschnitzel in Allgäuer Käsesauce und Spätzle (my dinner and definitely a favorite)- pork schnitzel in Allgäu cheese sauce and Spätzle, paired with a beautiful salad.
- Riesling Schloß Ludwigshöhe | Fruchtig und rassig mit viel grünem Apfel und einer feinen Zitrusnote | Pfalz | Ritter von Dalberg | trocken.
Das Augsburger Rathaus
Located along the pedestrian-friendly and shop-lined Rathausplatz, Das Augsburger Rathaus is the city’s Renaissance-style town hall.
The exterior was built between 1615 and 1620 (1624 for the interior) and serves as the seat of the city government. It is one of the most notable secular Renaissance buildings north of the Alps.
The Goldener Saal (Golden Hall) is on the second floor. This stunning banquet hall has a striking gold-lined 14 meter (46 ft) tall ceiling and intricate murals.
The hall was damaged during WWII and the restoration in the original style was unveiled on January 9th, 1985 as a part of the city’s 2,000th anniversary. It was renovated further in 1996.
St. Anna Kirche
St. Anna Kirche at Im Annahof 2 is nestled between City Hotel am Kö and the Augsburger Stadtmarkt. Free public guided tours take place daily at 3pm with special tours available on request. Check the official website for opening hours before your visit.
An important site during the Reformation, this former medieval Carmelite monastery was built in 1321 and converted to Lutheranism in 1545.
It is now the main Protestant church in the city. Church services are on Sunday at 10 and 11:30 am. It is also home to Fuggerkapelle, the burial place of Jakob Fugger and relatives.
The rooms Martin Luther stayed in when challenged by Cardinal Cajetan in 1518 have been turned into the Museum Lutherstiege. This exhibit covers his life and the Reformation.
Das Augsburger Wassersystem
Augsburg also has the oldest water system and water tower in Germany. This earned the city a UNESCO World Heritage Designation on July 6th, 2019.
The innovative system dates back over 1000 years from the diversion of water from the rivers Lech, Wertach and Singold to provide water power to artisans.
It grew to the development of clean drinking water with the first water tower created in 1416 and now has a total collection of 22 components with canals, water towers, fountains, and hydroelectric power stations.
This was an integral part of the early prosperity of Augsburg.
The 29 Lech canals run both above and underground, flowing between buildings, with over 500 bridges (more than Venice!) and a combined total length of 77 kilometers (48 miles).
The Stadtmetzg (city’s butcher house, but now an administrative building) even used the Vorderer Lech canal in the building’s basement to cool meat and dispose of waste.
As we walked along the canals in Lechviertel, we happened to pass by one of the machinery parts actively sweeping out leaves and debris to help keep the water clean.
We also took a fascinating tour of the water tower for an inside look at the inner workings of the system.
The Wasserwerk am Roten Tor (Waterworks at the Red Gate) is the oldest water tower in Central Europe. This collection of three water towers sent water from the Aqueduct through the pumping stations uphill to provide the public with clean drinking water.
The large water tower was built in 1416 with the smaller one created in 1470 (and the final in 1599) after the original reached its limits. The historical water piping system used Deicheln, water lines made of pine logs and metal connections.
Sightseeing inside the tower is only possible with a guide. Public guided tours are open on the first Sunday of the month May-October from 10am to 4 pm.
The aqueduct is closed May to July for open-air stage season.
Fuggerei
One of the most famous historic areas of Augsburg is Fuggerei at Jakoberstraße 26.
Established by Jakob Fugger in 1521, this is the world’s oldest social housing complex still in use and maintained by the Fugger family to this day.
The complex started as 52 buildings with three quarters of the buildings destroyed during World War II (residents were sheltered inside a bunker on site). The community rebuilt in the original style and has now increased to 67 yellow, ivy-lined buildings and 142 residents with around 80 on a waitlist.
The rent has not changed over the last 500 years and continues to be frozen at 1 Rheinischer Gulden (€0.88, nearly 1 USD) per year with an additional cost for utilities. The yearly rent is actually much lower than the entry fee for the museum (€8 per adult in 2024).
This cost comes with a few specific rules to live on the property. Applicants must be residents of Augsburg for at least two years, have a financial need, be Catholic, and pray three times a day for Jakob Fugger and his family.
They must also contribute to the community with options such as gardening and manning the admission desk. The gates lock at 10 pm every night and require a fee after that time to enter.
Apartments range from 500 to 700 square-foot. The museum includes a model of an apartment at Ochsengasse 51 to see the building layout without disturbing residents.
This city within a city is also home to St. Markus Church, beautiful gardens, food stalls, and even a Bücherhütte (book hut).
Visiting hours vary based on season. From October-March, it is open 9am-6pm daily and from 9am-8pm daily April-September (in 2024). Texts in the museums are written in German and English.
Tickets can be purchased directly at the entrance or online. Most of the space is accessible to wheelchairs. Well-behaved dogs on a leash are also allowed.
Admission includes multiple viewing areas. Along with the model of the apartment, you can also view the bunker used by residents during the bombing raids on Augsburg on February 25/26th, 1944; a Museum of History and Living in Mittleren Gasse 13/14; Museum of Everyday Life in Ochsengasse 47; and Museum of the Residents in Ochsengasse 46.
There have been quite a few notable residents at Fuggerei. Franz Mozart, the great-grandfather of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, lived in House 14 on Mittlere Gasse until his death in 1694.
Dorothea Braun also lived at Fuggerei and was the first victim of Augsburg’s witch hunts on September 26th, 1625. She was actually accused by her 11 year old daughter.
Bauerntanz
For our second evening in Augsburg, we had dinner at the historic and incredibly comforting Bauerntanz at Bauerntanzgäßchen 1.
Bauerntanz opened in 1572 as a brewery and tavern and is the oldest inn (since 1576) in Augsburg. They feature a seasonal menu (with an English option) along with Swabian classics, soups, salads, meat, dessert, a child’s menu, and a couple of vegetarian meals.
This restaurant has both indoor and outdoor seating perfect for absorbing the relaxing atmosphere. We enjoyed the following:
- Mönchsklause aus der Pfalz.
- Chardonnay aus Frankreich.
- Rinderkraftbrühe mit Flädle– beef broth with pancake strips (other options include Leberspätzle, Brätnockerl, or Maultaschen).
- Schwäbische Maultaschen mit Kräuter-Fleischfüllung in würziger Zwiebelschmelze mit Käse überbacken- Swabian Maultaschen with herb and meat filing over onion sauce and topped with cheese.
- Geschmortes Lammhaxerl mit Speckbohnen, Thymiansoße und Röstkartoffeln- Braised lamb shank with beans tossed with Speck, thyme sauce, and roasted potatoes.
- Geschmortes Rinderbackerl in Rotweinsoße, mit jungen Gemüse und Semmelknödel- Braised beef cheeks in red wine sauce with young vegetables and bread dumplings.
Overall, I had such a wonderful first visit to Augsburg and hope to see the city again someday.
We spent two nights here. You can see the highlights as a day trip from Munich, but three days would be especially perfect to enjoy Augsburg at a relaxing pace.
Along with everything we visited, Augsburg is also home to Botanischer Garten Augsburg (Augsburg Botanical Garden), Leopold Mozart Haus (Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart’s father), and Augsburger Puppenkiste (Marionette Theater).
Kartoffelknödel (German Potato Dumplings)
Kartoffelknödel (also known regionally as Kartoffelklöße and Erdäpfelknödel) are a type of dumpling with a potato base. There are many variations throughout Central and Eastern Europe.
Some regions use mostly grated raw potato (Thüringer Klöße) or an equal blend of raw grated potato and cooked mashed (halb und halb).
To break up the thickness and make sure the center is cooked through, others have a toasted bread (crouton) or other filling.
I am sharing a version today similar to the Kartoffelknödel we enjoyed at Riegele Wirtshaus in Augsburg. These dumplings are made with a combination of tender potatoes, potato starch, eggs, butter, salt, and nutmeg.
The Kartoffelknödel are formed into individual balls and lightly simmered until cooked through. The result is a hearty dumpling with a tender, pillowy texture perfect for soaking up gravy.
A Few Kartoffelknödel Tips
I made the Kartoffelknödel with Russet potatoes since they are the most common starchy potatoes here in the United States. You can swap for another starchy (not waxy) potato depending on availability.
Boil the potatoes until completely tender and a knife inserted in the center of the thickest one can easily go all the way through. If they are too firm, they won’t be able to pass through the potato ricer.
Do not mash the potatoes. Pressing through a potato ricer or food mill is best to get the desired texture.
Peel and press the potatoes while still warm. Allow them to cool just enough to handle. For larger potatoes, I usually cut them in half before pressing.
Don’t overmix the dough. Blend the ingredients together just until evenly combined and smooth.
If you do not have potato starch available, it can be swapped for equal amounts cornstarch. The resulting texture will be a little more chewy. For those in Northern Virginia, I have been able to find potato starch at Wegmans and German Kartoffelstärke (auch Kartoffelmehl) at German Gourmet in Falls Church.
If the mixture is too wet, add a little more potato starch. If it is too dry and falls apart, use some egg white from one of the egg yolks.
Using an ice cream scoop is an easy way to form dumplings around the same size. They should be about 2 1/2 inches (4 centimeters) wide, but you can make them a little smaller or larger based on personal preference. The cooking time may vary.
When forming the individual dumplings, very lightly moisten your hands with water if the mixture is sticking too much.
If you are new to making potato dumplings and aren’t sure on how the dough should feel, shape and test one dumpling in the water before forming the rest. If it falls apart, add a little more potato starch to the dough and try again.
Once the water comes to a boil, reduce to a low simmer before adding the Kartoffelknödel. If the water is boiling too much, it will break apart the dumplings.
These Kartoffelknoedel are best after boiling, but can easily be repurposed. Leftovers can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to three days.
They can also be frozen before cooking (but I personally like the texture better when it is fresh). Arrange the leftover uncooked potato balls in a single layer on a parchment-lined baking sheet.
Place in the freezer. Once solid, transfer to a freezer-safe bag. Slowly simmer straight from the freezer. A couple of minutes may need to be added to the cooking time.
Kartoffelknödel Serving Ideas
These Kartoffelknödel are incredibly versatile and can be served in so many ways.
Melinda enjoyed them at Riegele Wirtshaus as a side for a 2 pound Schweinshaxe. Kartoffelknödel are also delicious alongside Rouladen and Sauerbraten, pretty much anything with extra gravy to soak up.
As with many Central European dumplings, leftovers can be sliced and panfried with onions and eggs to make Geröstete Knödel (mit Ei). This may actually be one of my favorite uses (same goes for Schwäbische Maultaschen).
For a more hearty meal, the Kartoffelknödel can be baked in a dish with cream, onions, ham, and a layer of grated cheese.
Kartoffelknödel (German Potato Dumplings) Recipe
Adapted from Meine bayerische Küche by Alfons Schuhbeck
Kartoffelknödel (German Potato Dumplings)
Ingredients
- 2 1/2 pounds (1.13 kilograms) Russet potatoes or other starchy potatoes
- 1 tablespoon caraway seeds
- 1 cup (170 grams) potato starch
- 1 1/2 teaspoons salt plus more for seasoning water
- 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
- 2 large egg yolks
- 1 large egg
- 2 tablespoons (30 grams) unsalted butter melted and slightly cooled
- Fresh parsley or chives chopped, for garnish
Instructions
- Place the potatoes in a large pot and cover fully with cold water.
- Add the caraway seeds and a large pinch of salt to the water and place over medium heat.
- Once the water comes to a boil, reduce heat to a simmer and cook until the potatoes are completely tender, 20-30 minutes.
- Remove from heat, transfer the potatoes to a colander, and set aside until just cool enough to handle.
- Peel the potatoes and press through a potato ricer into a large bowl.
- Fold in the potato starch, salt, and nutmeg just until evenly distributed.
- Mix in the egg yolks, egg, and butter just until a soft and smooth mixture comes together.
- Form the dough into individual balls about 2 1/2 inches (4 centimeters) wide and set aside, repeating with the remaining dough.
- Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil.
- Reduce heat to a low simmer (it should not be boiling at all) and add a few of the Kartoffelknödel, taking care to not overcrowd the pot.
- Very lightly stir along the bottom to keep the Knödel from sticking and simmer until they have risen to the top and are heated completely through the center, about 15-20 minutes.
- Carefully remove with a slotted spoon and repeat with remaining Kartoffelknödel.
- Serve immediately.
Alison Corey
It’s always a delight to bring a bit of travel nostalgia into the kitchen, and these potato dumplings seem like a wonderful way to do just that.
Kechi
Love learning about German potato dumplings and as well the cities you visited! Love seeing the photos too! A beautiful way to preserve the memories! Thank you for sharing!
Dannii
This was all so interesting. I loved learning about the dumplings, and beautiful photos too.
Dina and Bruce
Such memories of the German food that my mother made. Can not wait to make this!
MacKenzie
These potato dumplings look amazing.