Meat-Filled Momos and Cooking South of the Clouds

Cooking South of the Clouds: Recipes and Stories from China’s Yunnan Province, written by Georgia Freedman, features an incredible collection of classic recipes from throughout Yunnan paired with descriptive stories and history. Highlights include Zhanyi Chile Chicken, Stir-Fried Sweet Potato Leaves with Garlic, Potato Pancake with Chile Powder, Western Yunnan-Style Pineapple Sticky Rice, and Babao-Style Breakfast Noodles. I will also be sharing her recipe for Meat-Filled Momos following the review.

Disclosure: I received this book from Kyle Books in exchange for my honest review. All comments and opinions are my own.

Georgia Freedman

Georgia Freedman is a freelance journalist and editor currently based in the Bay Area. She lived in Yunnan Province for two years and continues to visit regularly with her family. 

Her work has appeared in Wall Street Journal, Afar, Martha Stewart Living, Rodale’s Organic Life, Roads and Kingdoms, and Saveur. She is also the author of Snacking Dinners.

Cooking South of the Clouds

Georgia begins Cooking South of the Clouds with an introduction of Yunnan: “a province of forests filled with native rhododendrons and azaleas, towns full of mud brick houses with sloping tiled roofs, jungles teeming with monkeys and elephants, and a population that includes dozens of different Chinese minority groups, each with its own unique traditions and customs.” 

I personally love the level of detail and history she has included throughout the book. You will find a map with notable landmarks and surrounding countries/provinces, a closer look at the people and traditions (including profiles of local cooks and favorite ingredients), influences that have developed the distinct styles of cooking, and more. 

Chapters are divided according to region (not geographically defined, but rather separated by predominant flavors and cooking influences): Central Yunnan, Northern Yunnan, Southern Yunnan, Eastern Yunnan, Western Yunnan, and Base Recipes and Sauces. The contents also have a full list of recipes with page numbers for easy reference.

The beautiful photography is provided by Josh Wand. Many of the recipes are accompanied by a full-page photo of the finished dish. There are plenty of photos of the landscape, people, and food alongside the stories. Step-by-step photos are also provided to demonstrate techniques such as wrapping momos, making Er Kuai (Yunnan Rice Cakes), and filling Lijiang “Baba” Filled Flatbreads.

Titles are written in English with Hànzì on the side. Measurements are listed in US Customary. Each recipe has a headnote with background stories, tips, necessary equipment, and serving ideas.

Meat-Filled Momos

I was immediately drawn to the Momo recipes. I have previously made Tarkari Momo and Veg Momos, but this was my first time trying a meat-filled version.

Georgia came across this recipe for Meat-Filled Momos at Lhasa Restaurant in Shangri-la, “a small eatery opened by two young women from the Tibetan Autonomous Region who serve traditional Tibetan dishes alongside sweet, fragrant chai tea in a second-story spot in the center of town.”

Traditionally, they are made with yak meat, but Georgia has substituted with ground beef (do not use lean). If you happen to have yak meat available, slightly decrease the amount of soy sauce in the filling.

Notable Ingredients

Sichuan peppercorns (huā jiāo, Chinese prickly-ash) are not actually related to black pepper, but are dried dark-red berries. They have a tingly sensation and are generally used as a flavor enhancer. They can be found in markets specializing in Chinese ingredients.

To make the Sichuan Peppercorn Powder, toast the peppercorns in a dry skillet over medium heat until fragrant, 2-3 minutes. Stir constantly to keep them from burning. Crush the toasted peppercorns using a mortar and pestle or a spice grinder to make a fine powder.

For even more flavor, you can pair the Meat-Filled Momos with Sepen, a Tibetan hot sauce.

Forming the Meat-Filled Momos

To assemble the Meat-Filled Momos, the all-purpose Tibetan dough is pleated around a lightly-seasoned meat filling. The dough comes together simply with flour and water and is ready to use after around a 15 minute (or up to two hours) rest at room temperature.

Knead the dough well until it is soft and pliable. If still too crumbly after several minutes of kneading, slowly add a little more water. Lightly dust the work surface with flour as needed if it is still too sticky to handle.

Each piece of dough is rolled into a ball, flattened into a circle, then lightly rolled into a 3 1/2 inch (9 centimeter) wide wrapper with a thicker center and to help support the filling and thin edges.

Pleat the edges over the filling and pinch the tops together to seal, twisting gently.

If you want to make a large batch, these Meat-Filled Momos freeze well for future use. Arrange in a single layer on a lined baking sheet and freeze until solid before transferring to a freezer-safe bag or container. They can be steamed straight from the freezer, but will need a couple of minutes added to the cooking time.

Other Dishes

I also made Yunnan Grilled Cheese Slices with Ham, Fried Bread Stuffed with Curried Meat, Naxi Sandwich, and Stir-Fried Rice Cakes with Pork Belly, Tomatoes, and Spinach.

The Yunnan Grilled Cheese Slices with Ham is a salty and savory snack inspired by the Lao Fangzi (Old House) restaurant in Kunming. Slices of cheese sandwich a thin piece of Yunnan ham (or Spanish Jamón Serrano) and are pan-fried until golden.

The Tibetan-style Fried Bread with Curried Meat is another recipe that uses the all-purpose Tibetan dough. Two sheets of the dough enclose a ground beef (traditionally yak) filling seasoned with curry powder, cumin, turmeric, coriander, and Sichuan peppercorns. The edges are sealed with a rope pattern and the prepared bread is deep-fried until golden on both sides.

The recipe for this Naxi Sandwich comes from the Baisha Times Guesthouse restaurant in Baisha, a Naxi town about 1/2 hour south of Lijiang. I used pita bread, but Lijiang Baba bread is the recommended base. Sandwiched between the two pieces of bread are shredded and fried potatoes, creamy cheese (buffalo mozzarella as a substitute for the soft yak cheese), tomato slices, and chile sauce.

The Stir-Fried Rice Cakes with Pork Belly, Tomatoes, and Spinach is a flavorful meal that comes together relatively easily. I did not have er kuai (Yunnan rice cakes) available nor a meat grinder to make my own, so I used the suggested substitution of sliced Korean rice cakes. Pieces of pork belly are coated in egg, cooked briefly, and stir-fried with mushrooms, rice cakes, spinach, tomato, scallions, and soy sauce.

Cooking South of the Clouds is a great pick for those interested in the regional cooking of China and more specifically of Yunnan. Recipes range from simple stir-fries to more intricate breads and recipes with layers of flavor. Those new to this style of cooking will find the guide to basic pantry staples particularly helpful with their name in English and Hànzì, photos, descriptions, uses, and substitutions when available.

Having a market nearby with Chinese and South Asian ingredients will be helpful in locating items such as Thai chiles, garlic chives, Sichuan peppercorns, crayfish, sawtooth herb, Zhenjiang vinegar, maitake mushrooms, pork belly, lotus root, yu choy, Chinese sausage, and more.

Meat-Filled Momos Recipe

Excerpt from Cooking South of the Clouds

Print Pin

Meat-Filled Momos

A recipe for Meat-Filled Momos! Homemade wrappers are filled with a lightly spiced beef mixture and steamed until tender.

Course Main

Cuisine Tibetan

Keyword beef, dumpling, meat, momo, Tibet, Tibetan, Yunnan

Prep Time 40 minutes minutes

Cook Time 10 minutes minutes

Resting Time: 15 minutes minutes

Total Time 1 hour hour 5 minutes minutes

Servings 24 Momos

Ingredients

All-Purpose Tibetan Dough:

• 2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour
• 3/4 cup (180 milliliters) water

Meat-Filled Momos:

• 1 pound (450 grams) ground or finely chopped beef about 1 3/4 cups, do not use lean
• 3 scallions, white and light green parts only cut in half lengthwise and finely sliced crosswise
• 1 1/2 teaspoons (7 milliliters) light soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon (15 milliliters) vegetable oil
• 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
• 3/4 teaspoon Sichuan peppercorn powder
• Cabbage leaves for lining the steamer

Instructions

To make the All-Purpose Tibetan Dough:

• Put the flour into a large mixing bowl, then drizzle in the water slowly, stirring with chopsticks.
• Once all the water has been added, knead the mixture together with your hands until it comes together. If the dough won't come together, add a tiny bit more water, and if it is very sticky, add a tiny bit more flour so that the dough is soft and pliable.
• Turn the dough out onto a clean surface and knead it vigorously for 10 minutes, until it is smooth and silky.
• Form the dough into a ball, set it back in the bowl, and cover with plastic wrap, without letting the plastic touch the dough.
• Let it sit for at least 15 minutes and up to 2 hours before using. Knead it a couple of times just before using.

For the Filling:

• Prepare the meat by breaking it up with a fork or chopping it lightly, then mix in the scallions, soy sauce, oil, salt, and Sichuan peppercorn powder until evenly distributed. Set the filling aside.

Forming the Wrappers:

• Divide the prepared dough into quarters and lightly flour a work surface.
• Working with one quarter of the dough at a time, knead the dough a couple of times and then use your hands to roll it into a rope about 1 1/2 inches (4 centimeters) thick.
• Cut the rope into six, small, even pieces.
• Take one small piece of dough, roll it into a ball in your palms, and then use the heel of your hand or the bottom of a measuring cup to smash it into a flat, even circle.
• Use a dumpling rolling pin or wooden dowel to further flatten the circle into a 3 1/2 inch (9 centimeter) wide wrapper with a thicker center. The best way to do this is to use the rolling pin on just the bottom third of the circle, then turn the dough counterclockwise a bit and repeat; this way the edges of the wrapper will receive even pressure, while the center stays untouched. (The finished wrapper should have the shape of a very flat flying saucer or fried egg.)
• Repeat with the remaining dough, setting the wrappers aside on a floured surface and making sure they don't touch each other.

When all the wrappers have been prepared, fill the momos:

• Place a wrapper in the palm of one hand and top with a small mound of filling (approximately 1 tablespoon).
• With your other hand, bring the right edge of the wrapper up toward the center of the filling. With your thumb on the edge of the wrapper, use your index finger to grab the edge of the wrapper about 1/2 inch (1.25 centimeters) from your thumb, then pinch the two parts of the edge together, to create a small fold. Repeat the pinching motion, bringing more and more of the dumpling's edge into the middle, and rotating the dumpling in your hand, creating pleats all around the dumpling. (The dough is flexible, so if you need to, pull and stretch the dough over the filling.)
• When all the edges of the wrapper have been secured together, pinch the top of the dumpling, where they meet, to ensure that they are stuck together well.
• Fill a large pot that will fit under the steamer with water and bring it to a rolling boil.
• Place the momos on the steamer lined with cabbage leaves and steam them over the pot for 8 to 10 minutes, until the dough looks slightly translucent. (If using the steamer with stacked trays, the momos on the bottom may be done before those on the upper levels.)
• Serve hot from the steamer on their own or accompanied by a chili sauce.