Mountain Berries & Desert Spice: Sweet Inspiration from the Hunza Valley to the Arabian Sea, written by Sumayya Usmani, showcases a beautiful assortment of treats from Pakistan and neighboring countries. A few highlights include Spiced Apple Samosas, Peshwari Pistachio Ice Cream, Khanfaroush (Spiced Saffron Crumpets with Honey), and Jalebis (Spiraled Fermented Doughnuts in Turmeric-Infused Syrup). I will be sharing a recipe for her Gosh-e-Fil (Elephant Ear-Shaped Fried Pastry) following the review.
Disclosure: I received a copy of this book from Frances Lincoln in exchange for my honest review. All comments and opinions are my own.
Sumayya Usmani
Sumayya Usmani is a food writer and culinary teacher currently based in the United Kingdom. She was born and raised in Karachi, Pakistan to Muslim Indian immigrants.
Sumayya originally followed in her father’s footsteps and worked as a lawyer before fully embracing her love of food and turning it into a career.
Her work has been featured in The Guardian, Delicious, BBC Good Food, The New York Times, and International Herald Tribune. Sumayya is also the author of Summers Under the Tamarind Tree and Andaza.
Mountain Berries & Desert Spice
Sumayya begins Mountain Berries & Desert Spice with an introduction to the cuisine of Pakistan and how it has been influenced from the varied climate and terrain along with neighboring areas.
She also includes a map of Pakistan and breaks down the most popular sweets and produce based on region with enticing writing of the landscape and food.
I loved the added personal touch of sharing her childhood experiences from saving money to visit the mithai shop to spending time on the seas with her father, a merchant navy captain, and watching her mother create indulgent Eid desserts.
Chapters are divided according to the following:
- Journey through a Land of Sweetness and Spice
- Childhood Sweets in a New Home
- Key Ingredients and Techniques
- Sour Morning Berries (Rising to Mouth-Watering Spice)
- Sugar Almonds and Buffalo Milk (The Sweetness of Diversity)
- Kites, Kingdoms and Cardamom Samosas (Flavours from Lahore and the Mughal Empire)
- Through Mulberry Valleys (Summer Fruits in Harsh Winters)
- A Saffron Blaze (Following the Spice Caravans)
- Festive Spice and Roses (Celebratory Sweets)
- Chilli Mangoes and Ocean Breeze (The Sweetness of Homecoming)
The photography is provided by Joanna Yee. Every single recipe includes a beautifully-styled photo of the finished dish.
Measurements are listed in Metric and US Customary. Titles are written in English and/or the original language. Each recipe has a headnote with background information, personal stories, helpful tips, serving size, preparation, and cooking times.
Gosh-e-Fil (Elephant Ear-Shaped Fried Pastry)
Everything we have tried so far has been wonderful, but I especially loved Sumayya’s recipe for Gosh-e-Fil (Elephant Ear-Shaped Fried Pastry).
A favorite from Afghanistan and Iran during special occasions and holidays, Gosh-e-Fil (Gosh-e-Feel) are thin, cardamom-scented pastries shaped to resemble an elephant’s ear. In this version, the sheets of dough are cut into 2 inch (5 centimeter) circles, then one side is pinched to make the notable ear shape.
Once shaped, the Gosh-e-Fil are fried briefly until crisp and lightly golden. To finish, they are dusted with powdered sugar, ground pistachios, and rose petals for a beautiful contrast in colors and textures.
A Few Gosh-e-Fil Tips
Do not pack in the flour when measuring or you may end up with too much. To measure flour, gently spoon it into the measuring cup and level with a knife without pressing down. The most accurate way to measure is by weight.
Roll the dough into a thin layer, no thicker than 1/4 inch (6 millimeters). The thinner the rounds, the more crisp they will become after frying.
Dried rose petals are available at International Markets featuring South Asian/Middle Eastern food or on online. They add a beautiful pop of color to the pastries. Check the packaging to make sure the petals are food-grade.
Green Cardamom is a highly aromatic, warm citrus-like spice. Most of the flavor is in the seeds encased by the green pods. You can buy cardamom whole or ground, but the seeds quickly lose their flavor once the pods are cut. I have been able to find the pods in the spice section of larger grocery stores and specialty spice stores/International Markets featuring South Asian products.
Other Sweet Treats
I also made Gajrela (Carrot Rice Pudding); Sohan Saffron Honey Caramels with Rose Water, Pistachio and Almonds; Dooth ki Bottel (Rich Milk and Rose Water Drink with Spice, Seeds and Nuts); and Makhan Roti Cheeni (Chappatis rubbed with homemade butter and raw sugar).
Gajrela is a carrot rice pudding that originated in Punjab and is a popular winter dessert in Karachi. Sumayya’s Nani (maternal grandmother) would make it often. A basmati rice base is simmered in a spiced milk mixture with carrots, then topped with nuts, coconut, and raisins before serving.
The Sohan Saffron Honey Caramels with Rose Water, Pistachio and Almonds are especially fun little treats. I absolutely loved the combination of caramel with the honey, rose water, and pistachio and rose petal topping.
Dooth ki Bottel is a spiced milk drink with ground seeds, pistachios, almonds, cardamom and a little rose water and brown sugar. It only takes 15 minutes to create and is best served chilled from the fridge. This recipe is a great way to use up leftover nuts and seeds from the pantry.
Makhan Roti Cheeni was a childhood snack for Sumayya. Homemade wheat chapati are topped with homemade butter and sprinkled with sugar to finish. This was such a comforting treat and perfect for bread lovers.
Mountain Berries & Desert Spice is a great pick whether you are interested in Pakistani cuisine or are simply looking for sweet treats paired with personal memories. As a note, Sumayya has adapted many of the recipes to lower the sugar a bit- adjust to taste as desired. There are a wide variety of choices from cookies and baked goods to fried pastries and creamy, refreshing desserts.
Many of the ingredients can be found in larger American grocery stores. Having a South Asian or Middle Eastern market nearby will be helpful in locating items such as rose water, saffron, kala namak (black salt), anardana (dried pomegranate), seviyan (vermicelli), edible silver or gold leaf, sultanas, mace, channa daal, semolina, falooda noodles, rice flour, agar agar, chickpea flour, vimto syrup, and Arabic gum crystals.
Gosh-e-Fil (Elephant Ear-Shaped Fried Pastry) Recipe
Excerpt from Mountain Berries & Desert Spice
Gosh-e-Fil (Elephant Ear-Shaped Fried Pastry)
Ingredients
- 220 grams (7 3/4 ounces, 1 2/3 cups) all-purpose flour plus extra 30 grams (1 ounce) for dusting
- pinch salt
- 1 tablespoon caster sugar (superfine sugar)
- 3-4 green cardamom pods seeds removed and ground
- 2 eggs
- 40 grams (1 1/2 ounces, 3 tablespoons) unsalted butter melted and cooled
- 4 tablespoons whole milk
- Vegetable oil for frying
To decorate:
- 1 tablespoon icing sugar (confectioners' sugar)
- 1 tablespoon ground pistachio
- 1 teaspoon pink dried rose petals
Instructions
- Sift the flour, salt, sugar and ground cardamom together in a large bowl.
- Whisk the eggs, butter and milk together in another bowl, then pour this slowly into the flour and start to bring it together into a dough. When it begins to combine and is sticky, place it on a floured surface.
- Using the extra 30 grams (1 ounce) of flour knead for about 10 minutes until you have a soft dough. Cover the dough with a damp tea towel and allow to rest for 1 hour at room temperature.
- When ready to cook, roll the dough out on a floured surface into a thin sheet no thicker than 5 millimeters (1/4 inch), then using a 5 centimeter (2 inch) round pastry cutter, cut out 15-20 circles. Using your finger, form the circles into an 'ear' shape with a little point at one end.
- Heat the oil in a wok-like pan to 180˚C (350˚F) or until a cube of bread browns in 30 seconds. Drop a few 'ears' into the hot oil over a medium heat, allow them to float to the top and deep-fry until light brown and crispy. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. Repeat until all the 'ears' are cooked.
- Allow to cool, then dust with icing sugar and sprinkle with finely ground pistachios and rose petals. Store in an airtight jar for 1 week.
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