A recipe for Pfannkuchen (German Pancakes) inspired by my visit to Bad Ems, Germany! These light, thin pancakes are delicious on their own or with a variety of toppings.
Disclosure: Accommodations, meals, and transportation were provided by the German National Tourist Board. All comments and opinions are my own.
In October 2023, I spent a few days in Germany with Melinda Fulmer, a lifestyle writer, editor, and my cousin!
It was a whirlwind trip with two nights each in Frankfurt am Main, Baden-Baden, Blaubeuren, Augsburg, and Bad Ems.
Today, I am sharing our final stop together in Bad Ems with a recipe for Pfannkuchen (German Pancakes).
Check out the rest of my trip:
- Homemade Spätzle and Baden-Baden
- Seelen and Blaubeuren
- Kartoffelknödel (German Potato Dumplings) and Augsburg
- Sachsenhäuser Schneegestöber and Frankfurt am Main
Bad Ems
Melinda and I finished our Germany trip in the picturesque town of Bad Ems.
Located in Rheinland-Pfalz (Rhineland-Palatinate) along both sides of the Lahn river, it about 20 kilometers (12.4 miles) east from Koblenz and 117 kilometer (73 miles) northwest of Frankfurt am Main.
The town is perfect for a relaxing weekend break from the city with numerous hiking trails, natural parks, cycling and walking paths along the Lahn, mineral springs, spas, and cafes.
It is also full of history. We spent a morning with our wonderful guide Renate learning about the town and its notable sites.
Bad Ems was first mentioned in documents in the year 880 and officially became a city in 1324.
It was situated on the border between the Roman Raetia province and Upper Germania. The Obergermanisch-Raetische Limes (Upper Germanic-Rhaetian Limes) actually crossed the Lahn east of the present day Häckers Grand Hotel around Grabenstraße.
By the 1700s, Bad Ems became one of the most famous resorts in Germany and attracted visitors with its cluster of mineral hot springs and focus on wellness. It was a summer residence for many notable figures such as Wilhelm I, Alexander II, and Fyodor Dostoevsky.
This focus continues today with a blend of both historical and modern spas. We didn’t get a chance to visit, but the Emser Therme at Viktoriaallee 25 is a more recent addition to the town.
In contrast to the health focus, the area was also home to the industrial mining of lead, silver, zinc, and copper.
The Emser Depesche (Ems Dispatch) was also published here on July 13th, 1870 and led to the start of the Franco-Prussian War.
Traveling to Bad Ems
We traveled to Bad Ems via a series of trains from Augsburg. The original plan was Augsburg to Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof, then to Limburg, and finally Bad Ems.
Our train from Frankfurt to Limburg ended up getting cancelled.
If using the trains at all, I highly recommend downloading the Deutsche Bahn app and getting a Flexpreis ticket for more flexibility.
The app is available in English and it is easy to search for additional trains along the route (same day) in case a train is late, cancelled, and/or a tight connection is missed.
Through the app, we were able to quickly find another train to Koblenz without waiting in the long line at information, then from there to Bad Ems. This route took us along the Rhein River with gorgeous views of vineyards, fortresses, Rüdesheim am Rhein, Bacharach, and other small towns.
Bad Ems has two train stations: Bad Ems West and Bad Ems. Most of what is covered in this post is walking distance to the Bad Ems station.
When leaving Bad Ems, we took a taxi from the hotel to Montabaur (23 kilometers, 14 miles), then a train directly to Frankfurt Airport (FRA).
Mineral Springs
Along with Baden-Baden, Bad Ems became part of the “Great Spa Towns of Europe” UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2021.
The town has 15 mineral springs and the only alkaline-muriatic waters in Germany. A few are located outside and there were even three inside our hotel.
The Robert-Kampe-Sprudel is just to the right of Häckers Grand Hotel next to Grabenstraße. At 135˚F (57˚C), it is one of the hottest springs in Germany. It sprays 159 gallons (600 liters) per minute and can reach 26 feet (8 meters) high during the summer.
The Römerquelle (photo below) is situated inside a pavilion lined with beautiful mosaic tiles.
It is around 107˚F (42° C) and a popular spot to fill up water bottles.
Häckers Grand Hotel
During our time in Bad Ems, Melinda and I stayed in Häckers Grand Hotel at Römerstraße 1. It was an easy 1/4 mile (350 meter) walk across the river from the train station.
The location is absolutely amazing (particularly when standing on the Ottmar Canz Brücke/Bridge) with the river and the mountains surrounding the striking yellow building.
The Häcker family bought the building (Kurhaus) and created the hotel in 1999, but it was originally built in 1711.
The hotel has 105 unique rooms: single rooms, double rooms, and suites in a variety of styles with furnishings highlighting the building’s history.
We stayed in a double room with a bed, balcony, desk, TV, wardrobe, minibar, tea/coffee maker, large marble bathroom, and complimentary toiletries.
We also had bathrobes (+ a small package of gummy bears) and a basket of towels and slippers to use during our time in the spa.
There was a scale in the bathroom which was helpful for weighing my suitcase (I ended up having to check it since I bought too many cookbooks).
From our balcony, we had beautiful views of the Lahn river and surrounding landmarks.
The Brunnenhalle on the ground level of the hotel houses three springs: the Emser Kränchen, Kesselbrunnen, and Kaiserbrunnen.
The water from the Emser Kränchen is one of the most famous and has high levels of hydrogen carbonate.
The Chrystal Horse Bar is also located in the Brunnenhalle. Decorated with unique gemstones, this cafe and bar features coffees, homemade cake, spirits, and other drinks.
In addition to the rooms and views, Häcker’s Grand Hotel has a thermal bath and sauna area, restaurant, fitness room, and Beautyfarm Cinderella with massage options.
We didn’t have time, but you can rent bicycles in the lobby for cycling along the Lahn.
Restaurant Benedetti
After settling into our room, we had dinner at the restaurant onsite, Restaurant Benedetti. It was nice after a long day of traveling to just walk down the hallway for our meal.
They have a set menu, but we ordered a la carte and enjoyed the following:
- A basket of delicious German bread (I could have had just this and been happy).
- 2021er Graf von Kanitz Riesling, trocken (dry).
- Carpaccio from veal-tenderloin in an apricot-walnut-marinade and topped with shaved stuffed duck-liver.
- Klare Tomaten Consommé mit Basilikum-Quarknocken (Clear Tomato Consommé with Basil Quark Dumplings- so good!).
- Atlantic common sole roasted in lemon butter with herb potatoes
- Tagliatellenudeln in Olivenöl geschwenkt, mit Champignons, Kirschtomaten und Rucola, bestreut mit gerösteten Pinienkernen (Tagliatelle tossed in olive oil with mushrooms, cherry tomatoes, arugula, and toasted pine nuts).
- Warmes Blaubeertörtchen an Vanille-Joghurtschaum mit Macadamianuss Eis (Warm muffin-like blueberry tart with vanilla yoghurt foam and macadamia ice cream).
Breakfast
A breakfast buffet is included and held in the Restaurant Benedetti space.
During our stay, they had a wonderful assortment of coffee, tea, Champagne, bread, cake, cheese, cold cuts/sausages, eggs, and more.
Many of the options (and much of the hotel) are kid friendly. Mine would especially like the doughnuts and pretzels.
On my final morning, I picked the Mini-Pfannkuchen with caramel sauce, bread with cheese, and Nürnberger Würstchen (plus fresh fruit and a cappuccino not photographed).
Rita’s Café-Bar Arkade
Rita’s Café-Bar Arkade is located just in front of Häckers Grand Hotel. They have a few indoor tables and beautiful outdoor seating with views of the Lahn River.
The menu has a variety of drinks and food, but I was immediately drawn to the gorgeous assortment of cakes and tarts.
The Römertorte and Latte Macchiato mit Caramel (oder Schoko) were perfect for an afternoon treat. I especially loved the wave-like layers of vanilla buttercream, currant marmalade, and chocolate.
Kurwaldbahn
After breakfast at the hotel, we started our day with the Kurwaldbahn. We didn’t have time to do the funicular while in Baden-Baden (hopefully I will fix that someday), so I was excited to finally experience one here.
With 132 meters (433 feet) in height at a 78 percent gradient, the Kurwaldbahn is one of the steepest funiculars in the world. It was built in 1979 and renovated in 2005. Check the hours of operation before visiting.
The entrance is at Römerstraße 18. There is a self-service machine inside to buy tickets (single way, round trip, or multiple visits for up to a year). The round trip was labelled Berg und Tal (Mountain and Valley).
The track has two cars with departures every seven minutes. Each car holds up to twenty people. As a note, bicycles cannot be transported on the cars.
The trip up the hill is very fast (less than 2 minutes to cover a 220 meter/722 foot distance) with gorgeous views of Bad Ems and the surrounding forest.
It was early in the morning so nothing was open, but at the top there is the Bismarckhöhe with the restaurant, Brauhaus Bismarck. There is also a playground and multiple hiking trails in the surrounding area.
We got really lucky with weather (actually our entire trip- that rarely happens) and the looming rain didn’t start to fall until we were in the car going back down to Bad Ems.
The now closed Malbergbahn funicular is on the opposite side of the river.
Ristorante Estragon
During our full day in Bad Ems, we had lunch at Ristorante Estragon. This restaurant is also just a short 140 meter (460 foot) walk from the hotel at Lahnstraße 6.
They feature a delicious assortment of Italian cuisine along with a small, rotating weekly lunch menu.
I’ve always wanted to try pasta tossed in a Parmesan rind and finally did here! The Spaghetti alla Ruota (Spaghetti mit Trüffelbutter direkt im Parmesanrad angerichtet) was lightly coated in truffle butter and tossed in a Parmesan rind in front of the table.
Melinda picked the Lunette al Tartufo (Lunette Nudeln gefüllt mit Ricotta und Trüffel, Trüffelsoße mit Pinienkernen und Salbei). This pasta was filled with ricotta and truffle, then tossed in a truffle sauce with pine nuts and sage.
Kursaalgebäude
During our tour, Renate took us inside the beautiful Kursaalgebäude at Römerstraße 8 along the Lahn.
This building houses the Kolonnade, Marmorsaal (Marble Hall), Kurtheater, Casino, and Kurcafé.
The Marmorsaal (Marble Hall) was built between 1836 to 1839. The murals and columns within this magnificent hall were created with local Lahn marble.
The Kurtheater was created in 1913/14 during the extension of the Kursaal buildings and was designed in Neo-Rococo style.
Both the Marble Hall and Theater continue to be venues for the area’s major cultural events.
Le Goût
Le Goût was one of my favorite stops while walking down Römerstraße.
This concept store focuses on design and fine food with regional brands, wine, artwork, kitchenware, garden items, and other gourmet products.
I took home chocolate (perfect for small souvenirs) and some very fun pasta inspired by hair shapes.
Detlev Ueter
We spent our last evening (which arrived much too quickly) at the home of local Bad Ems chef, Detlev Ueter, preparing a four course menu along with regional wine pairings!
It was such an incredible end to our trip and personally one of my most memorable moments while traveling.
Detlev Ueter is a chef, caterer, teacher, and creator of the brand, Ueter & Herbs. He was born in Westphalia and has been a trainer and lecturer at the Gastronomisches Bildungszentrum (Gastronomic Education Center) in Koblenz since 2007.
Detlev is also the author of Lamm und Zicklein- Nose to Tail: Warenkunde, Küchenpraxis und Rezepte. I took a copy home and have the Paprikasuppe mit Lammravioli (Paprika Soup with Lamb Ravioli) bookmarked to try first.
While walking around town earlier that day, we came across many of his spice mixes, sauces, and drinks inside the Touristinformation Bad Ems and Le Goût.
Along with the regional wines, we also tried Detlev’s Rheinischer Vermouth and Rhenish Vermouth Rosé. Both were fantastic.
I particularly enjoyed the lighter Rheinischer Vermouth with its citrus notes and pear/rosemary flavors.
Through the evening, we assisted in preparing a beautifully-styled meal using seasonal and local ingredients:
- Feldsalat mit Rote Bete und schwarzen Nüssen (Field Salad with Red Beets and Black Walnuts) + Lamm-Buchteln (Lamb-filled Rolls)
- Zanderfilet mit Gemüse-Sauerkraut (Zander/Pike-perch Fillet with Vegetable Sauerkraut)
- Wildtopf mit Kartoffeln, Kürbis und Birnen (Deer with Potatoes, Pumpkins, and Pears)
- Plus Mousse au Chocolate mit Feige (a Verbena Granita with White Chocolate Mousse, Almond Crumble, and Caramelized Fig) and fantastic assorted chocolate truffles for dessert
Everything was absolutely amazing and I am so thankful for the experience.
Pfannkuchen (German Pancakes)
To pair with my visit to Bad Ems, I am sharing a recipe for Pfannkuchen (German Pancakes)!
Pfannkuchen are slightly thicker and more sturdy than crepes, but wider and thinner than American pancakes. They are very similar in style to the Danish Pandekager and Russian Blini.
Some areas of the United States call the big, fluffy oven-baked pancake a German Pancake or Dutch Baby. Those are quite delicious, but are most definitely not the same thing. I still remember coming across them with the name German Pancake for the first time and being very confused.
To make things even more complicated, the word for these German pancakes can vary based on the region. I labeled the recipe Pfannkuchen since that is how I know them.
In Berlin, Pfannkuchen are known as the jam-filled doughnut (called Berliner and Krapfen elsewhere). Other names/variations include Eierkuchen, Plinsen, Palatschinken in Austria, and Omeletten in Switzerland.
Pfannkuchen Serving Ideas
These Pfannkuchen are incredibly versatile and can be served in a variety of sweet and savory ways.
At Häckers Grand Hotel, I had them simply with a drizzle of caramel sauce.
When making them at home, I usually eat them with cinnamon sugar (similar to how I prepared my South African Pannekoek). Sprinkle the cinnamon sugar over the pancake immediately after removing from the pan, then roll them up. The residual heat will melt the sugar slightly.
My kids prefer pairing theirs with a chocolate hazelnut spread and fresh berries. Jam or applesauce would also be delicious.
While in Blaubeuren, I tried Kräuterflädle for the first time. These pancakes had a batter made with fresh herbs and they were served with tender fall vegetables.
The cookbook, Esse in Hesse, has a recipe for Speckpfannkuchen (with bacon)- aus der Herbsteiner Fastnacht.
Another variation, Apfelpfannkuchen, has sliced apples incorporated as the pancakes cook.
A Few More Pfannkuchen Tips
Make the pancake batter with all-purpose flour or Weizenmehl Type 405. I sometimes like to mix it up with other flours such as Dinkelmehl Type 630 (spelt flour).
Do not pack in the flour when measuring or you may end up with too much. To measure flour, gently spoon it into the measuring cup and level with a knife without pressing down. The most accurate way to measure is by weight.
If I am using the pancakes in a savory meal, I sometimes leave out the sugar or add a smaller pinch.
Allow the batter to rest at room temperature for about 30 minutes before cooking. Immediately before adding to the pan, whisk in 1/4 cup (60 milliliters) sparkling water to add to the light texture. Some recipes use baking powder.
Grease the pan lightly as needed with butter or a neutral vegetable oil such as sunflower or canola. I personally prefer the flavor with butter, but you need to keep an eye on it and make sure it doesn’t burn.
The pancakes should be slightly thicker than crepes. Once the pan is hot, pour in about 1/3 cup (80 milliliters) and swirl the pan to create a thin layer. I like to use a crepe pan, but a well seasoned skillet (about 8-10 inches, 20-25 centimeters) will also work.
If the batter is too thick to swirl, add a little more sparkling water or milk. If the batter is too thin to cook and flip without tearing, whisk in a little more flour.
Watch the temperature and adjust the heat between medium and low as needed. They cook quickly, so keep an eye on them and take care not to overcook. The Pfannkuchen should be sturdy enough to flip, but too crisp and you won’t be able to roll them.
These Pfannkuchen are best shortly after preparing. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for about a day. Leftovers are delicious sliced and served in a light soup- Flädlesuppe.
Pfannkuchen (German Pancakes) Recipe
Adapted from Emmi Kocht Einfach
Pfannkuchen (German Pancakes)
Ingredients
- 2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour
- 1 tablespoon (12 grams) granulated sugar
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 1 1/2 cups (355 milliliters) milk
- 4 large eggs
- 1/4 cup (60 milliliters) sparkling water
- Unsalted butter or vegetable oil for greasing the pan
Instructions
- In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, and salt.
- Slowly whisk in the milk until combined and no lumps remain.
- Whisk in the eggs. If too thick, slowly add a little more milk (remember sparkling water will be added after resting). If too thin, slowly add a little more flour.
- Cover the bowl and allow to rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.
- Place a large nonstick skillet or pan over medium low heat. Lightly grease with oil or butter.
- Whisk the sparkling water into the batter.
- Once the pan is thoroughly heated, add 1/3 cup (80 milliliters) batter to the center and immediately tilt the pan in a circle to coat the bottom in a thin layer.
- Cook until set on the top and the bottom turns golden, about 2 minutes.
- Flip and cook until the other side is golden, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Remove to plate. Rub the pan with more butter or oil as needed and repeat with remaining batter.
- Serve immediately with desired toppings.
Andrea
Thank you for sharing your marvelous visit with us. I’m in awe of the beauty and all the delicious food. The German pancakes look so light and fabulous. I love that you can serve so many different ways. They can be breakfast or dessert.
Donalyn
Thanks so much for sharing your experience and beautiful photos. This recipe looks just amazing!
Beth
I loved your recount of your trip as much as I love these pancakes. Both look amazing.
Kimberly
Beautiful! I’m from Germany and grew up with my Mutti and Oma making Pfannkuchen on a regular – always a treat and they’ll forever remind me of home <3 Thank you for sharing your experience in Bad Ems, such a charming town.