A recipe for Pork Gyoza inspired by our visit to Tokyo! These homemade pork dumplings are pan-fried until crisp and paired with a miso dipping sauce.
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We recently spent nearly two weeks in Tokyo! We had such a fantastic time seeing the city, trying a variety of restaurants, and spending time with friends.
I will be sharing our experiences in a series of blog posts and am starting today with Pork Gyoza and an overview of Yoyogi, Shimokitazawa, Meiji Jingu, and Gotokuji Temple.
Check out the rest of our travels in Japan:
- Matcha Latte and Shinjuku, Tokyo
- Pokemon Bento and Tokyo
- Omurice (Japanese Omelette Rice) and Tokyo
- Matcha Baked Donuts and Odaiba, Tokyo
- Japanese Crepes and Shibuya, Tokyo
Yoyogi
For this trip, our hotel was based in Yoyogi so we spent a decent amount of time in the area. Yoyogi (代々木) is a neighborhood in the northern part of Shibuya on the border of Shinjuku.
It is home to Yoyogi Park, Yoyogi Station (plus a short walk to Shinjuku Station), NTT Docomo Yoyogi Building (the fifth tallest building in Tokyo at 240 meters and second tallest clock tower in the world), and plenty of fantastic restaurants.
Hotel Century Southern Tower
We stayed at Hotel Century Southern Tower (小田急ホテルセンチュリーサザンタワー). The location was absolutely perfect. It is almost directly between Shinjuku and Yoyogi Stations for easy access throughout the city.
From Narita International Airport Terminal 1, we took the Limousine Bus to Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal (バスタ新宿), then it was a less than 5 minute walk to the hotel. The trip is usually around 1 1/2-2 hours and they handle your luggage (up to 2 suitcases per person).
It was too late in the evening when we arrived, but the Limousine Bus does have a stop directly outside Hotel Century Southern Tower (and other nearby hotels). We booked that online when heading back to the airport.
The lobby starts on the 20th floor (take an elevator from the 1st or 2nd floor to the lobby, then a second elevator up to the rooms), so we had some incredible views of the city.
For the four of us, we had a Scenic Twin Room (plus an extra bed- limited availability) with views of nearby Shinjuku Gyoen National Park all the way to Tokyo Skytree and Tokyo Tower. The kids especially loved people watching from such a high point and seeing the trains go through Shinjuku Station.
There was even a Japanese/English printout in the room with a guide to the different buildings.
The room was stocked with a mini refrigerator, electric kettle with tea and instant coffee, air conditioning, pajamas, and slippers. There are no washing machines, but the hotel does have same day laundry service.
Each guest floor also has Purified Water Dispensers (room temperature and cold water) near the elevators. I especially appreciated this to minimize the use of bottled water.
Konbini
While there was no room service or mini bar, there are restaurants on a few floors of the building, others easily within walking distance (plus the Depachika in Takashimaya Times Square/Tokyu Hands), and many different Konbini (convenience store) options.
There was a small 7-Eleven on the ground floor of our building (opened at 7 am weekdays and 8 am weekends at the time of this post) plus 24 hour options nearby along with Lawson and FamilyMart.
We often didn’t leave the area until after rush hour, so it was perfect to pick up a few things for a quick breakfast. Chad and the kids went to the restaurant on the 20th floor near the lobby for the breakfast buffet a couple of the days, but I usually went out alone to a coffee shop or just picked up coffee and a couple of Onigiri (rice balls).
I also bought sunscreen, bug spray, and antiperspirant wipes (much needed with the heat and humidity in July) at FamilyMart.
Chad was particularly fond of the smoothie machine at 7-Eleven. You could choose a cup filled with frozen fruit/vegetables, then blend after purchasing.
Yoyogi Shoten
Yoyogi Shoten (代々木商店) is a small ramen restaurant just down the street from Hotel Century Southern Tower and west of Yoyogi Station. It has seating for 1-4 with counters and a few tables. Chad and I each went alone on different evenings while the other stayed in the hotel with the kids.
They focus on Yokohama Iekei Ramen (横浜家系ラーメン), a flavorful family-style pork bone and soy sauce broth with thick and chewy noodles. Along with the basic ramen options, there were half sizes for light eaters, larger servings, gyoza, beer, lemon sour, and more.
Just inside the door is a ticket machine (in Japanese) to order (cash or IC Card/Suica). The staff were very helpful when Chad went alone and was using the machine for the first time.
I tried the Tsukemen (つけ麺)- cold ramen noodles with a slice of Chashu (braised pork belly) and nori along with a concentrated pork broth for dipping. It was absolutely perfect after a long, hot day outside.
Chad picked the top left button on the machine (always a good idea to get the basic ramen if there are no English translations) and his ramen came with a slice of Chashu, spinach, quail egg, and nori. He also got a lemon sour and loved the pairing.
Hobo Shinjuku Norengai
One evening, my friend Yoshimi and I came across Hobo Shinjuku Norengai (ほぼ新宿のれん街, translates to almost or basically in Shinjuku) just outside the east exit of Yoyogi Station.
Within this area is a Yokocho (横丁, alley or small streets with food and bars) with a collection of older, traditional-style houses converted into restaurants ranging from Japanese yakitori and gyoza to global flavors.
Each restaurant is marked with a different Hiragana character: い ろ は に ほ へ と ち り ぬ to easy follow the signs to desired restaurant.
Awadsutsumi Champagne Mania
While in Hobo Shinjuku Norengai, we decided on Awadsutsumi Champagne Mania! It was perfect for a light dinner and the pairing of Gyoza and Champagne was fantastic.
泡包シャンパンマニア (Awadsutsumi Champagne Mania) is a short walk east of Yoyogi Station and marked with an い (i) above the restaurant. They feature gyoza with six accompanying sauces, over 100 types of champagne, and other small bites. Reservations are available through their website.
We started with the 泡包餃子 (にんにくあり) 12個- Awadsutsumi Gyoza with Garlic 12 pieces (it is also available without garlic: にんにくなし or as a 6 piece serving) and モエ・シャンドン・モエ・アンペリアルとグーウェ・アンリブリュト Moët Imperial and Gouet Henry Champagne Brut.
We also tried the 5種の盛合せ Assortment of five types of smoked bites: 卵 Egg, 笹かまぼこ Grilled Fish Cake, ししゃも Shisamo (Willow Leaf Fish- smelt from Hokkaido), チェダーチーズ Cheddar Cheese, and 辛子明太子 Karashi Mentaiko (Spicy Cod Roe).
Meiji Jingu
On our second morning in Japan, I went to Meiji Jingū (明治神宮) alone around 6 am. It was already 85˚F (29˚C) but not nearly as bad as the forecasted 100˚F (38˚C) later in the day.
Meiji Jingu is a Shinto Shrine on the border of Shibuya and Shinjuku. It was dedicated on November 3, 1920 to Emperor Meiji and consort, Empress Shoken, then destroyed during WWII (the forest survived) and rebuilt in 1958.
The shrine’s hours change each month based on the sunrise and sunset. Since I was there so early, the Meiji Jingu Museum and other specialty areas were not open yet.
From Hotel Century Southern Tower, it was an easy 1 kilometer (0.6 mile) walk to Meiji Jingu Kitasando Torii at the north entrance (or 500 meters/0.3 mile via Yoyogi Station).
Meiji Jingu Ichino Torii is at the south entrance next to Harajuku Station. To the west is Yoyogi Park. It is a 1.2 kilometer (0.75 mile) walk between the two gates.
It was such an incredible experience. Walking through the gates (bow towards the gate before entering and after exiting) and down the path, I was immediately surrounded by trees (over 100,000 donated from across Japan) and briefly forgot I was in a major city filled with skyscrapers. Especially first thing in the morning, the area was completely quiet with only a few other people.
I am glad I picked up the insect repellent at FamilyMart. There may not have been many people, but I saw quite a few mosquitos.
If you look closely at the wooden lanterns, you may also spot a Joro Spider (ジョロウグモ).
Within the grounds, the Ootorii (The Grand Shrine Gate) marks the path to the main building. It is also the largest wooden Myojin style Torii in Japan at 12 meters tall and 17 meters long. The original was built in 1920, then destroyed by lightning on 1966 and rebuilt/dedicated on December 23rd, 1975.
Before entering the main hall of the shrine, cleanse your hands and mouth at the station to the left. There are instructions with photos on how to do this. If you are unsure and there are locals around, hang back quietly for a minute to see what others do.
Bow before walking through the gate and as you leave (towards the gate and shrine, not facing away). Please refrain from taking photos in front of the main shrine, of people praying, and the amulet office.
Other notable sites include the rows of sake barrels (donated by breweries across the country) and wine barrels (imported from France). They are across the path from one another. I especially loved looking at all the designs.
There are festivals throughout the year from Saitan-sai (歳旦祭, New Year’s Day Ceremony) to Joya-sai (除夜祭, the last ceremony of the year).
I spent around 1 hour here, but it can take up to two hours when the museum and other areas are open.
Shimokitazawa
Flipper’s
One morning, we had reservations for brunch at Flipper’s in Shimokitazawa. It was just a short train ride from our hotel.
Flipper’s (フリッパーズ) has locations in Tokyo, Osaka, and overseas. They feature a delicious variety of fluffy sweet and savory 奇跡のパンケーキ (Miracle Pancakes).
They have table and counter seating and a takeout window with スフレサンド (Soufflé Sandwiches).
We ordered the 奇跡のパンケーキゲランドの塩キャラメルバター (Guerande Salt Caramel Butter Miracle Pancakes), 奇跡のパンケーキストロベリーチョコレート Strawberry Chocolate, 奇跡のパンケーキストロベリー Strawberry, and エッグベネディクトB.L.T.- BLT Egg Benedict.
Captain’s Donut
We stopped by Captain’s Donut in Shimokitazawa on the way back from Gotokuji Temple.
This small shop features baked and fried donuts made with soy milk and okara (by-product from tofu making). Flavors include plain, black tea, matcha, chocolate, and walnut. They can also be paired with soy soft serve for a refreshing treat.
There is a small bench and table outside next to ordering window. The kids enjoyed the ソイソフトと揚げドーナツ (Soy Soft Serve with Fried Donut). I especially appreciated that the donut was cut into small pieces to easily eat without making a mess.
Gotokuji Temple
We took the train from Shimokitazawa to Gotokuji Station after brunch to visit Gotokuji Temple.
Daikeizan Gotokuji (大谿山 豪徳寺) is a Buddhist temple located within the Gotokuji district in Setagaya, Tokyo. It is often nicknamed the Cat Temple due to being the birthplace and now home to many many Maneki Neko (招き猫, Beckoning Cats).
Visiting hours vary based on season. During our time there, the temple was open 6 am to 6 pm.
The walk from Gotokuji Station is around 950 meters (1/2 mile).
If using Google Maps, set it to Gotokuji Gate at the southern entrance, not Gotokuji Temple. Google maps worked 99% of the time during our trip, but led us to a closed entrance here and we ended up having to walk further around the loop of the property through a residential area.
You can also walk about 300 meters to the temple from Miyanosaka Station if on the Tokyu-Setagaya Line.
The entire grounds are beautiful from the distinctive landscaping (I want to visit again someday during the fall!) to the stunning three level wooden pagoda (三重塔, Sanju-no-to), but the most eye-catching are the shelves filled with thousands of Maneki-Neko of all sizes.
Evan even spotted an actual cat guarding the grounds! It was resting near the entrance to the shop with Maneki Neko of various sizes and amulets available for purchase.
You can either make a wish/prayer and leave your Maneki Neko at the shrine or take it home and bring back once the wish is fulfilled as a sign of thanks.
Just outside the entrance is a small building with a couple of vending machines and benches in case you need a break from the heat or some Pocari Sweat (ポカリスエット, a sports drink we got often similar to Gatorade).
Pork Gyoza
To pair with this travel post, I am sharing a recipe for one of my favorites, Pork Gyoza (餃子)! I even served them with Champagne to recreate the experience Yoshimi and I had at Awadsutsumi Champagne Mania.
Inspired by the Chinese Jiaozi, these Japanese Gyoza are usually a bit smaller and have a thinner wrapper. Fillings can vary (I made Wagyu Beef Dumplings a few years ago for a cookbook review!), but today I went with the classic combination of pork and cabbage.
The Gyoza can be cooked a few different ways. They are usually pan-fried and that is how I prepared them for this post, but they can also be boiled (水餃子, Sui Gyoza) or deep fried.
I served the Gyoza with a Miso Dipping Sauce, one of the options we had at the restaurant. You can also pair them with the traditional mixture of soy sauce, rice vinegar, and a little chili oil (ラー油, Rayu) if desired.
We enjoyed the Pork Gyoza simply with the Champagne as a light meal/snack, but they are also delicious alongside ramen and/or Karaage (Fried Chicken).
A Few Pork Gyoza Tips
After forming the dough, allow to rest at room temperature for 2-3 hours. This will make it easier to roll. If not using within 3 hours, refrigerate for up to a day. Bring back to room temperature before assembling.
Try to roll the gyoza dough as thin as possible, especially around the edges. It should probably be around 1/16th inch (1 millimeter) thick. I usually try to get the circle thin enough to see the pattern of my counter through the dough.
If you don’t want to work with homemade dough, swap for store-bought round gyoza wrappers (about 48). I don’t usually bother with wetting the edges on homemade, fresh wrappers since they seal easily, but you may need to wet the edges of store-bought wrappers with a little water.
Press out any air from the filling as you fold the pleats across the dumplings.
Use your hands to bring together the ingredients for the filling until evenly combined. If not assembling immediately, cover the bowl and refrigerate for up to a day.
I used green cabbage in this recipe. After finely chopping, I tossed the cabbage with 1/2 teaspoon salt and set it aside for about 20 minutes to draw out excess moisture. Remove any thick, tough pieces of the leaves.
Take care not to overfill. Only add a spoonful (up to a tablespoon) of the meat mixture to each wrapper. Overfilling will cause difficulty with closing and sealing the dumplings.
Cook the gyoza in a single layer in batches. My 8 inch (20 centimeter) pan usually holds between 7-8. Try to keep them from touching. Add another drizzle of oil as needed between batches.
The gyoza are best immediately after cooking. If not using right away, assemble uncooked dumplings in a single layer (not touching) on a parchment lined baking sheet and freeze until solid. Transfer to a freezer-safe bag and store in the freezer for up to two months.
Cook the Pork Gyoza straight from the freezer, but add 2-3 minutes to the steaming time.
Gyoza Notable Ingredients
Katakuriko (片栗粉, potato starch) is available in larger grocery stores in the gluten free or specialty flour sections and markets with Japanese ingredients. It is also available on Amazon: Katakuriko. If unable to locate, use cornstarch for the Gyoza filling.
Miso is a Japanese condiment created by fermenting soy with salt. Sometimes rice and barley are also used. There are many types of miso available.
Lighter colored miso is usually more sweet and less salty. As the color darkens, the flavor generally becomes stronger.
I used Shiro Miso (白味噌, white miso) for the dipping sauce, but it can be swapped for red or another favorite. Adjust seasonings to taste.
Pork Gyoza Recipe
Adapted from 餃子マニア
Pork Gyoza
Ingredients
Dough:
- 2 1/2 cups (330 grams) bread flour
- 1 1/2 cups (190 grams) cake flour
- Pinch salt
- 1 1/4 cups (296 milliliters) hot water
Filling:
- 8 ounces (227 grams) green cabbage
- 1 teaspoon salt divided
- 1 pound (450 grams) ground pork
- 1 tablespoon (9 grams) potato starch
- 2 garlic cloves peeled and minced
- 1 green onion finely chopped
- 1 1/2 teaspoons freshly grated ginger
- 1 tablespoon (15 milliliters) sake
- 2 teaspoons (10 milliliters) soy sauce
- 1 teaspoon (5 milliliters) sesame oil
- 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Miso Dipping Sauce:
- 2 tablespoons (36 grams) white miso
- 1 tablespoon (15 milliliters) water
- 1 tablespoon (15 milliliters) soy sauce
- 2 teaspoons (10 milliliters) rice vinegar
- 1 teaspoon (3 grams) toasted sesame seeds
- 1 teaspoon (4 grams) granulated sugar
To serve:
- Vegetable oil for pan-frying
- Water for steaming
Instructions
To make the dough:
- In a large bowl, combine the bread flour, cake flour, and salt.
- Make a well in the center and slowly add in the hot water. Mix together with a wooden spoon, then knead to form a soft and smooth dough. If too crumbly, mix in a little more water. If too sticky, add a little more flour.
- Wrap the dough in plastic or seal in a plastic bag, removing any excess air. Allow to rest at room temperature for 2-3 hours or refrigerate overnight, returning to room temperature before using.
To make the filling:
- Finely chop the cabbage, removing and discarding any thick parts of the leaves.
- Place the finely chopped cabbage in a fine mesh sieve and sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon salt.
- Toss lightly to coat and set aside in the sink for 20-30 minutes.
- Lightly squeeze out any excess moisture (don't need to remove all of it, just enough to keep the gyoza from becoming soggy) from the cabbage and place in a large bowl.
- Add the ground pork, potato starch, garlic, green onion, ginger, sake, soy sauce, sesame oil, remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt, and black pepper to the bowl.
- Mix well using your hands until the ingredients are evenly blended. Cover and refrigerate the bowl for up to a day if not assembling immediately.
To prepare the Miso Dipping Sauce:
- In a small bowl, whisk together the white miso, water, soy sauce, and rice vinegar until smooth.
- Use a Suribachi and Surikogi or mortar and pestle to grind the sesame seeds and sugar until crushed.
- Whisk the crushed sesame seeds and sugar into the miso mixture.
- Adjust seasonings to taste, the cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.
To assemble:
- Line a large baking sheet with parchment or lightly dust with additional potato starch or corn starch.
- On a lightly floured surface, divide the rested dough into four equal pieces.
- Place one piece on the work surface and cover the rest with a towel or plastic.
- Roll the piece of dough into an even rope. Cut the rope into 12 equal pieces, covering with a towel.
- Roll one piece into a ball and flatten into a circle. Gently roll out the edges to create a circle as thin as possible, about 1/16 inch (1 millimeter) thick. Try to get the edges thin enough to become translucent.
- Add a small scoop (about 1 tablespoon) of the pork filling to the center of the circle, keeping 1/2-3/4 inch (1.25-2 centimeters) of the edge clear.
- Bring up the centers of the circle on each side over the filling and pinch only in that one spot to seal.
- Begin to create pleats on one side of the wrapper away from the center down to one edge. Use your index finger to keep the pork inside while you begin to fold.
- Repeat with the other side to form a crescent shaped dumpling. Place on the parchment lined baking sheet, repeating with the rest of the cut dough pieces, then the rest of the dough and filling to form about 48 Gyoza.
To cook:
- Place a nonstick or well seasoned cast iron pan over medium heat. Sprinkle with a tablespoon (15 milliliters) of vegetable oil.
- Once heated, arrange a few of the dumplings in a single layer in the pan, taking care to keep them from touching. In my 8 inch (20 centimeter) pan, this is usually 7-8 dumplings.
- Once the dumplings begin to form a crust, carefully pour in 1/4 cup (60 milliliters) water and immediately cover with a lid.
- Allow the gyoza to steam with the lid on (do not remove) for 3 minutes.
- Remove the lid and continue to cook the gyoza until all the water has evaporated, the dumplings have formed a golden brown crust, and the pork is at least 165˚F (74˚C).
- Carefully transfer the cooked gyoza to a plate and repeat with desired amount of dumplings.
- Serve immediately with the miso dipping sauce.
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