A recipe for Sachsenhäuser Schneegestöber (Sachsenhäuser Cheese Spread) inspired by my visit to Frankfurt am Main, Germany! Camembert and cream cheese are blended with spices for a delicious accompaniment to pretzels and bread.
In October 2023, I spent a few days in Germany with Melinda Fulmer, a lifestyle writer, editor, and my cousin!
It was a whirlwind trip with two nights each in Baden-Baden, Blaubeuren, Augsburg, and Bad Ems.
I arrived two days early to spend some time alone in Frankfurt am Main, so this part of my trip was not covered or sponsored in any way.
Check out my previous posts:
- Homemade Spätzle and Baden-Baden
- Seelen and Blaubeuren
- Kartoffelknödel (German Potato Dumplings) and Augsburg
- Pfannkuchen (German Pancakes) and Bad Ems
Frankfurt am Main
I used to fly into Flughafen Frankfurt Main (FRA) every year to visit family (then drive 1 1/2 hours west), but this was my first time finally seeing the city outside of the airport!
Not to be confused with Frankfurt an der Oder next to the Polish border in Brandenburg, Frankfurt am Main is the fifth largest city in Germany and located in Hesse.
The city is sometimes nicknamed “Mainhattan” due to its position on the Main river and the blend of timber-frame architecture with modern skyscrapers.
The airport is one of the busiest in Europe and often a layover spot when traveling internationally.
Frankfurt is also an important financial center and home to numerous trade fairs. I barely missed the Frankfurt Book Fair (the world’s largest trade fair for books) by a few days during my October visit.
The headquarters of the European Central Bank is located here, as is the Frankfurt Stock Exchange (largest of the seven stock exchanges in Germany).
Sofitel Frankfurt Opera
During my two nights in Frankfurt am Main, I stayed at Sofitel Frankfurt Opera next to the Alte Oper at Opernplatz 16.
From Frankfurt Airport, I took the S8 (or S9) to the Frankfurt (Main) Taunusanlage Station. The ride was about 20 minutes, then a 5 minute (450 meter) walk to the hotel.
I picked Sofitel Frankfurt Opera since it is within walking distance to nearly everything covered in this post.
My longest walk was 2 kilometers (1.25 miles) to dinner at Gaststätte Atschel. Römerberg and Kleinmarkthalle are about 1 kilometer (0.6 mile). If needed, the hotel is also well-connected with public transportation.
I stayed in a 30 m² (323 sq ft) classic room with one queen bed, Samsung TV, BOSE sound, WiFi, a sitting area, and bathroom with bath and rainforest shower. It was incredibly comfortable and I had a wonderful stay.
I did not get a chance to use any of the following, but the hotel is also home to the Sofitel Spa (with a spa elevator), Restaurant Schönemann (“a touch of Paris in the middle of Frankfurt”), Lilis Bar, and Sofitel Fitness.
They also have in-room dining available 24 hours a day. The menu is available in German and English.
Alte Oper
Alte Oper (Old Opera) was originally built in 1880 and the interior was demolished during WWII. It remained empty for 40 years until its restoration and reopening on August 28th, 1981.
The building is still home to over 400 events a year with classical music, concerts, and ballet performances. Most of the operas are now held in the Oper Frankfurt at Untermainanlage 11.
Römerberg
One of the most popular areas for tourists in Frankfurt is Römerberg, the historic city center in Altstadt. It is only 25 minutes from the airport via S8 or S9, making it a perfect stop for those with long layovers.
Notable sites include the Römer (city hall since the 15th century), Gerechtigkeitsbrunnen (Fountain of Justice), Ostzeile (eastern row of half-timbered buildings), Alte Nikolaikirche (Old St. Nicholas Church), cafes, restaurants, and the Christmas Market in December.
Most of the area was destroyed on March 22nd, 1944 and the buildings were renovated in their original style.
ConditCouture
After dropping off my luggage at the hotel, my first stop was ConditCouture at Fahrtor 1 for cake and coffee.
ConditCouture features a variety of coffee, cakes, cookies, and other treats including many Frankfurt specialties. The cafe is self service with indoor and outdoor tables.
I went with the Frankfurter Kranz (three layers of cake with buttercream, red jam, and Krokant/nut brittle coating) and Latte Macchiato.
They were both fantastic (I really want to try to make the cake someday) and it was a wonderful start to the trip.
Historisches Museum Frankfurt
After cake, I visited the Historisches Museum Frankfurt across the street at Saalhof 1.
Historisches Museum Frankfurt is the city’s oldest museum in the 800-year-old Saalhof buildings and the latest adjoining wing finished in 2017. It was founded in 1878 and houses hundreds of years of Frankfurt’s history with around 630,000 objects.
Tickets are available onsite or online through their website. At the time of this post (2024), hours are 11am-6pm Tuesday-Sunday (closed Mondays with exceptions for some holidays, Christmas Eve, and New Year’s Day). Larger bags are not allowed in the exhibits, but lockers are in the lower level.
Permanent exhibits include Frankfurt Once?, Frankfurt Now, Collectors’ Museum, and more along with rotating special exhibitions.
Bitter & Zart
Bitter und Zart is a fun chocolaterie featuring feine Sachen (fine things) on the outer edge of Römerberg at Braubachstraße 14.
This small shop is packed with a variety of seasonal chocolates, marzipan, specialty Frankfurt products, baked goods, tea, caramel, hot cocoa powder, and more.
I picked up the creative Frankfurter-themed marzipan shaped into a Bembel (traditional pitcher for Apfelwein) and Sausages (complete with a piece of mustard!). This is definitely a great option for more unique souvenirs.
Weinschirn
I ended my first day in Frankfurt with Flammkuchen and wine at Weinschirn.
Located at Römerberg 8, Weinschirn has a variety of white, red, rosé, and sparkling wine along with other drinks, Flammkuchen, and small dishes. I sat outside, but they also have a handful of indoor tables.
I generally lean towards dry Riesling, but especially enjoyed Grauburgunder during this trip and it started with the Angelina Schmücker Grauburgunder from Rheinhessen.
The Flammkuchen Klassiker mit Speck, Frühlingzwiebeln, und geriebenem Gouda (bacon, spring onions, Gouda) was the perfect end to the day.
Kleinmarkthalle
For breakfast the next morning, I stopped by Kleinmarkthalle. This spacious indoor market (open Monday-Saturday) at Hasengasse 5-7 is an easy 270 meter (886 ft) walk north of Römerberg.
Inside, they have over 60 vendors selling everything from prepared meals, pastries, and drinks to cheese, fruit, flowers, herbs, international specialties, fish, meat, and even gardening supplies.
The covered market was originally built in 1879. As with much of Frankfurt, it was destroyed in 1944 and the current building has been in operation since 1954.
Bäckerei Huck
After stepping into Kleinmarkthalle, I was immediately drawn to the rows of bread and pastries at Bäckerei Huck.
It was so hard to narrow down what to get, but I ultimately went with a Nussecke and Brioche mit Karamell.
Nussecken continue to be my favorite and they were so good here. Translating to nut corner, this pastry has a shortcrust base with a sweet chopped nut topping. To finish, the corners are dipped in chocolate.
Frankfurter Kaffeerösterei
I also stopped by Frankfurter Kaffeerösterei for a Gingerbread Latte. This Cafébar has a variety of specialty lattes, other coffee drinks, tea, and hot chocolate with a few counter seats.
Metzgerei Schreiber
My final stop in Kleinmarkthalle was at Metzgerei Schreiber. This fantastic booth (often with the longest line) has been run by 85 yr old Ilse Schreiber since 1958.
She has a variety of sausages available to pair with bread and mustard. I went with the Rindswurst, a specialty of Frankfurt. It is made of 100% beef (perfect for those avoiding pork, though I am not sure if any cross-contamination occurs so ask first) and spiced with white pepper and paprika.
Kaiserdom St. Bartholomäus
From Kleinmarkthalle, I walked 350 meters (1/4 mile) south to Kaiserdom St. Bartholomäus.
This red sandstone Roman Catholic Gothic church was built during the 14th and 15th centuries, destroyed during a fire in 1867, damaged again in 1944, and was reconstructed to its current appearance in the 1950s.
For an amazing view of the city, you can climb the 95 meter (312 foot) tall tower.
There is a ticket counter just outside the entrance. After purchasing, the operator will buzz open the door and you will be greeted with 328 narrow, winding steps towards the top.
The viewing platform offers a view in all directions of the Main river, skyscrapers, Römerberg, and other surrounding buildings.
MyZeil Shopping Mall
I managed to forget my jacket in the trunk of the car at the airport, so I stopped by MyZeil to find a new one.
This 8-level shopping center located along the Zeil (shopping street in Frankfurt) was designed by Italian architect, Massimiliano Fuksas, and opened in 2009.
The unique, vortex-like design offers quite the dizzying view when looking down from the top level.
Hugendubel
I came across the bookstore, Hugendubel, just a short walk from the hotel. Hugendubel is a German-based bookstore chain with locations across the country.
This location at Steinweg 12 has a large collection of books, stationery, and more across multiple levels.
They also had a section of books, artwork, and souvenirs specific to Hesse and Frankfurt. I ended up taking home the cookbook, Esse in Hesse: Die Besten Rezepte.
Eiserner Steg
Eiserner Steg (Iron Bridge) is another great spot for photos of the Frankfurt skyline (particularly at sunset).
This 170 meter (558 foot) long pedestrian bridge was originally built in 1869 and most recently renovated in 1993. It serves as a connection between Altstadt and Sachsenhausen over the Main river.
Sachsenhausen
Sachsenhausen is a neighborhood in Frankfurt on the south side of the river from Altstadt.
This historic area is known for the row of museums along the river (Museumsufer) and Apfelwein taverns.
Städel Museum
I only had time for one museum in Museumsufer (there are 26 museums here!) this trip, the art museum- Städel Museum at Schaumainkai 63.
Established in 1815, the Städel Museum houses “700 years of art under a single roof.” The focus is on European art through the Renaissance, the Baroque, and early Modern art. Notable artists include Lucas Cranach, Rembrandt van Rijn, Albrecht Dürer, Jan Vermeer, Claude Monet, Pablo Picasso, Max Beckmann, and more.
Timed tickets can be purchased through their website (priority admission) or onsite at the ticket counter. Audio guide apps are available in German and English.
As a note, many of the museums (including Städel Museum and Historisches Museum) are closed on Monday.
Gaststätte Atschel
Before my trip, I made a reservation (available through their website, highly recommended) at Gaststätte Atschel to try some of the cuisine specific to Frankfurt.
Gaststätte Atschel is a traditional Apfelweinwirtschaft housed in a historic building from 1861 in the heart of Sachsenhausen.
Like other taverns in the area, the restaurant is known for Apfelwein and other local dishes.
Apfelwein (Ebbelwei, Ebbelwoi) is a hard cider created by pressing apples and fermenting the resulting juice for 8 weeks. It has a light flavor with an alcohol content ranging from 5-7%.
It is served in a glass called a Gerippte with a lattice texture (perfect for holding without slipping) and poured from a Bembel (a beautiful grey and blue stoneware pitcher).
To pair with the Apfelwein, I ordered Sachsenhäuser Schneegestöber mit Bauernbrot (local Sachsenhausen cheese spread with farmer’s bread) and Original Frankfurter Grüne Soße mit 4 halben Eieren aus Freilandhaltung und Salzkartoffeln (Frankfurt green sauce with halved eggs and salt potatoes).
I really want to recreate (this has been a common theme for me this trip- I just want to make everything) Grüne Soße/Frankfurter Grie Soß someday. This refreshing sauce is packed with a traditional mixture of seven herbs (borage, chervil, garden cress, parsley, salad burnet, sorrel and chives) and spices.
The herbs are actually sold in bundles here at the markets. The sauce is served cold with hard-boiled eggs and potatoes or other dishes. The restaurant also pairs it with Schnitzel.
The meal was an incredible end to my time in Frankfurt am Main and I can’t wait until my next visit to the city in a few months.
Sachsenhäuser Schneegestöber
To pair with this post, I made Sachsenhäuser Schneegestöber (Sachsenhäuser Cheese Spread) inspired by my dinner at Gaststätte Atschel!
Similar to the Bavarian Obatzda, this specialty spread comes from Apfelweinlokale in Frankfurt’s Sachsenhausen neighborhood. Its name (also Hessisches Schneegestöber, Frankfurter Schneegestöber) literally translates to snow storm.
A combination of Camembert, fresh cheese, and butter are mashed together with a fork until just combined, then seasoned with diced onion, paprika, salt, and white pepper.
The mixture is best after resting for at least an hour to overnight in the refrigerator, then served with a sprinkling of more diced onion and chopped fresh parsley.
It is especially perfect alongside sliced Bauernbrot (farmer’s bread), hard pretzels, and Apfelwein (Ebbelwoi).
A Few Sachsenhäuser Schneegestöber Tips
Make sure all of your ingredients are at room temperature to combine them more easily.
The original recipes call for Frischkäse. I went with cream cheese.
I left the rind on the Camembert, but you can remove it if desired.
Mash and mix together the Camembert, cream cheese, and butter with a fork. Do not use a food processor. You want to keep some texture in the spread.
If the spread is too thick and you want to lighten it a bit, mix in a splash or two of sparkling water.
I have seen varying amounts of paprika added to the spread. I went with 3/4 teaspoon, but you can bump up to 1 1/2 teaspoons for a stronger flavor. Some also add caraway powder.
After bringing together all the ingredients, allow to rest in the refrigerator for at least one hour and up to overnight. This will give the flavors a chance to settle.
Sachsenhäuser Schneegestöber Recipe
Adapted from Esse in Hesse
Sachsenhäuser Schneegestöber
Ingredients
- 9 ounces (250 grams) Camembert with the rind and cut into 1/2 inch (1.25 centimeter) pieces, room temperature
- 4 ounces (113 grams) cream cheese room temperature
- 2 tablespoons (30 grams) unsalted butter softened at room temperature
- 1 small red onion peeled and finely diced, a handful set aside and saved for garnishing
- 3/4 teaspoon sweet paprika
- 1/4 teaspoon salt
- Pinch white pepper
- Finely chopped parsley for garnish
- Pretzels and bread slices for serving
Instructions
- In a large bowl, blend together the Camembert, cream cheese, and butter with a fork.
- Stir in the red onion, paprika, salt, and white pepper. Adjust seasonings to taste.
- Cover the bowl and allow to rest in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour and up to overnight.
- Garnish with red onion and parsley.
- Serve with pretzels and bread slices.
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