Andaza: A Memoir of Food, Flavour and Freedom in the Pakistani Kitchen, written by Sumayya Usmani, features Sumayya’s life from her early childhood at sea to her time in the England and growing up in Karachi. She pairs these captivating stories with a collection of 37 memorable dishes including Family Shami Kebabs, Street-Side Kulfi, and Yakhni Chicken Pullao. I will also be sharing her recipe for Saffron Black Cardamom Fudge following the review.
Disclosure: I received a digital copy of this book from Murdoch Books in exchange for my honest review. All comments and opinions are my own. This post contains Amazon affiliate links. If you purchase something through the link, I may receive a small commission at no extra charge to you.
Sumayya Usmani
Sumayya Usmani is a food writer and culinary teacher currently based in the United Kingdom. She was born and raised in Karachi, Pakistan to Muslim Indian immigrants.
Sumayya originally followed in her father’s footsteps and worked as a lawyer before fully embracing her love of food and turning it into a career.
Her work has been featured in The Guardian, Delicious, BBC Good Food, The New York Times, and International Herald Tribune. She is also the author of Summers Under the Tamarind Tree and Mountain Berries & Desert Spice.
Andaza
Sumayya begins Andaza with a short introduction and the meaning behind the book. Along with her coming-of-age story, Sumayya states, “it’s also a book that explores the hidden world of Pakistani women, based on several generations of my family and what the kitchen means to them.”
The name of the book, Andaza, translates to ‘estimation’ and was inspired by the way of cooking by both of her grandmothers using feeling and “the art of sensory cooking” as guidance in the kitchen.
The chapters are divided based on stages in Sumayya’s life. For easy reference, she has also included the list of recipes and menus just before the index.
The food photography is provided by Alicia Taylor. Every recipe is paired with a vibrant, full-page photo of the finished dish. Along with the beautiful food, the stories and memories are also paired with family photos.
Titles are written in English or the original language. Measurements are listed in Metric and US Customary. Each recipe has a short headnote with background information, stories, prep/cooking time, yield, and tips.
Saffron Black Cardamom Fudge
The Saffron Black Cardamom Fudge is the very first recipe in Andaza.
Inspired by her mother’s fudge recipe, this decadent treat comes together with a mixture of sweetened condensed milk, milk, butter, and Demerara sugar. It is also flavored beautifully with black cardamom and saffron, plus a sprinkling of rose petals and pistachios over the top.
After bringing everything together in the saucepan, the mixture is boiled for about three minutes until the temperature reaches 115˚C (239˚F).
I used a thermometer for this. Sumayya states they never had a thermometer on the ship when her mother would make the fudge, so you can test the temperature by dropping a little of the bubbling mixture onto a cold plate. If it forms a soft ball and doesn’t stick to your fingers, then the mixture is ready.
I especially love that you can adjust the exact texture of the fudge as desired. I kept the squares soft and chewy by beating with a wooden spoon just until it comes together in a ball and leaves the sides of the pan. For a more melt-in-the mouth texture, continue to beat until the mixture starts to become crumbly.
Allow the fudge to cool for 1-1 1/2 hours before cutting and serving. Once cooled completely, store in an airtight container for up to two weeks.
Notable Ingredients
Black cardamom can be found in markets with South Asian ingredients or on Amazon: Black Cardamom Pods. The pods are larger compared to their green counterparts and have a notable smoky, earthy flavor. A little goes a long way. For this recipe, only grind 3-4 of the seeds from the pod. Sumayya recommends using the extra seeds in Pullao or Chai.
Dried rose petals are available at International Markets featuring South Asian/Middle Eastern food or on Amazon: Dried Rose Petals. They add a beautiful pop of color to the fudge slices. Check the packaging to make sure the petals are food-grade.
Other Dishes
I also made Chicken Odesa, Nani Mummy’s Prawn Karahi, and Dadi’s Banana and Fennel Seed Gulgulay Doughnuts.
Chicken Odesa was one of the first dishes Sumayya ever prepared during her sixth birthday party. They were also a big hit with my family. Thin chicken filets are covered in an herb garlic butter, then coated in flour, egg, and breadcrumbs. To finish, they are pan-fried until golden and served with lemon wedges.
Nani Mummy’s Prawn Karahi is based on Sumayya’s maternal grandmother’s recipe. She recommends pairing it with her Bitter Lemon, Mustard Seed and Garlic Pullao (recipe also in book). Fresh prawns are simmered in a fragrant spiced tomato mixture until just pink. To finish, the dish is garnished with strips of ginger, cilantro leaves, and chopped green chilli.
Sumayya has created Dadi’s Banana and Fennel Seed Gulgulay Doughnuts based on her father’s recollection of his mother’s doughnuts. The mashed banana and flour-based batter is spiced with ground cardamom and fennel then teaspoonfuls are dropped into hot oil and fried until puffed and golden.
Andaza is a wonderful pick for those looking for a food memoir filled with beautiful memories and stories alongside family recipes.
Many of the ingredients are becoming more readily available in larger American grocery stores. Having a market with South Asian ingredients will be helpful in locating items such as star anise, rose water, nigella seeds, sev, fresh curry leaves, mukhwas, dried tamarind, anardana, lotus seeds, coarse semolina, mace, and methi.
Saffron Black Cardamom Fudge Recipe
Excerpt from Andaza
Saffron Black Cardamom Fudge
Ingredients
- 1 black cardamom pod cracked open, 3-4 seeds extracted and ground
- 350 grams (12 ounces) sweetened condensed milk or non-dairy alternative
- 150 milliliters (5 fluid ounces) whole (full-cream) milk or non-dairy alternative
- 115 grams (4 ounces) unsalted butter
- 450 grams (1 pound) Demerara sugar
- Small pinch of saffron threads
- 1 tablespoon edible dried organic rose petals
- 1 tablespoon pistachio slivers
Instructions
- Line a 20 centimeter (8 inch) square tin with baking paper and set aside.
- Put the cracked cardamom pod and the ground seeds into a non-stick or heavy-based saucepan with the condensed milk, milk, butter and sugar.
- Stir over medium heat until the butter has melted and the sugar has dissolved, then bring to a steady boil, stirring constantly.
- Let the mixture boil for about 3 minutes, or until the temperature reaches 115˚C (239˚F) on a sugar thermometer.
- Lightly crush the saffron between your fingertips. Add it to the pan and stir in with a wooden spoon, then take the pan off the heat and carefully fish out the cardamom pod.
- Let the fudge mixture sit for 4-5 minutes, then beat with the wooden spoon until it begins to come together into a ball and leaves the sides of the pan.
- If you like your fudge chewy, stop beating now; if you like it to be more melt-in-the-mouth, keep beating until it starts to get crumbly.
- Once the fudge has reached your desired consistency, press it into the tin, smoothing it with the back of the spoon.
- Sprinkle with the rose petals and pistachio slivers, pressing them into the fudge.
- Leave the fudge to cool and set- this will take about 1-1 1/2 hours- before scoring it, then cut into pieces and store in a tin or jar for up to 2 weeks.
Dina and Bruce
I love the rose petals!!
DK
Wow this fudge sounds so rich and decadent! The perfect dessert with a cup of coffee!
Julie
All the ingredients sound amazing and I am crazy about saffron.
Heather
I adore cardamom, and it elevates this fudge to new levels, absolutely delicious! I plan on making this for Mother’s Day, thank you!
justine
Turned out so pretty!