The Art of Making Gelato: More Than 50 Flavors to Make at Home, written by Morgan Morano, features a fun assortment of gelato and sorbetto recipes with classics such as Olio d’Oliva (Olive Oil), Stracciatella (Chocolate Chip), and Limone (Lemon) along with the less traditional Ciambella (Doughnut), Burro Rosolato (Brown Butter), and Baked Alaska (Milk Chocolate Gelato, Strawberry Sorbet, and Toasted Meringue). I will also be sharing her recipe for Tiramisu Gelato following the review. This is a newly expanded paperback version of the original hardcover The Art of Making Gelato released in 2015 with five new bonus recipes.
Disclosure: I received this book from Race Point Publishing in exchange for my honest review. All comments and opinions are my own. This post contains Amazon affiliate links. If you purchase something through the link, I may receive a small commission at no extra charge to you.
Morgan Morano is the founder of Morano Gelato based in Hanover, New Hampshire. She came across a Sicilian gelato and pastry shop in the fall of 2007 while studying abroad in Florence and was hooked after trying their Caffè granita with whipped cream. She began training under the owner, Antonio Cafarelli, and eventually was in charge of producing most of the gelato and pastries. After returning to the United States, she started her own gelato company in 2010 which has now grown to include another company-owned store in Chestnut Hill, Massachusetts and a franchised store in Westfield, New Jersey.
The chapters are divided according to the following: My Path to Pure Italian Gelato; Home Gelato Machines, Tools, and Ingredients; Step-by-Step Guide to Making Gelato and Sorbetto; Gelato Recipes (Le Basi/The Basics, I Classici/The Classics, Noci/Nuts, Non Tradizionale/Nontraditional Flavors); Sorbetto Recipes; and Nuovi Gusti (New Flavors).
Morgan begins with a thorough introduction of Gelato (derived from the Latin word gelātus meaning frozen) and how it differs from American ice cream (less percentage of butterfat, denser, and served at a warmer temperature). She explains the essential and preferred equipment for making gelato and sorbetto on a smaller scale, tips for sourcing the best ingredients and choosing a gelato machine, and how gelato is produced at Morano Gelato today.
The recipes use a cooking technique and some ingredients that were completely new to me for home-based gelato/ice cream, but the result was a consistently creamy and stable product. Nonfat dry milk powder gives structure and contributes to the texture. The use of a little light corn syrup reduces the ice crystallization without adding excess sweetness. Tapioca starch also helps reduce ice crystallization by absorbing water and thickening the gelato base.
Many of the flavors are accompanied by a quarter to full page photo of either the prepared product or one of the featured ingredients. A step-by-step illustrated guide for the gelato and sorbetto bases can also be found at the beginning of the book. The measurements are provided by weight- ounces and grams (though grams is recommended for accuracy). The titles are written in Italian and English. Each recipe includes a headnote with background information, yield, and serving ideas.
This book is a great pick for those interested in making homemade gelato and sorbetto at home. The step-by-step instructions are detailed and quite precise. Once you have the basic recipe down, it is easy to try all the different flavors. Many of the ingredients are readily available in the average American grocery store. Some that may require further searching are tapioca starch, milk powder, yogurt powder, jasmine essence or extract, amaretti, Biscoff Spread, hazelnut praline paste, port, and cacao powder.
This Tiramisu Gelato is the perfect treat for Tiramisu lovers. All the key flavors are present with sweet Marsala wine and brewed espresso mixed into the base along with pieces of finely chopped dark chocolate and ladyfingers added during the churning process. The gelato is best the day it is made for quite the “pick me up.” If freezing for future use, allow the container of Tiramisu Gelato to sit at room temperature 7-10 minutes before serving.
Tapioca starch/flour is a starch ground from the cassava root. I have been able to find it in the health/gluten-free/baking sections of most larger grocery stores. It is also available on Amazon: Organic Tapioca Starch. Make sure to check the ingredient listings. Some lower quality brands add flour as a filler.
Looking for more Tiramisu-inspired recipes? Try Tiramisu Pancakes, Tiramisu Semifreddo, and Tiramisu alle Fragole (Italian Strawberry Tiramisu).
I also made Cannella (Cinnamon) Gelato, Zabaione (Sweet Wine Custard) Gelato, Prosecco Sorbetto, and Caffè e Miele (Italian Espresso and Honey) Gelato.
I actually made the Cannella (Cinnamon) Gelato to pair with some caramel apple empanadas I made last month. The bold cinnamon flavor is definitely the star here. It would also be perfect alongside a warm apple crisp.
Zabaione is a classic Italian dessert of whipped egg yolks, sugar, and a fortified wine. The base includes 4 egg yolks and port to help incorporate these flavors. This gelato is best served with a variety of berries or even just a little whipped cream.
The Prosecco Sorbetto is such a great option of a fun dinner party or romantic dinner. The sorbet syrup base is prepared and chilled before combining with water and Prosecco in the ice cream/gelato machine. Since the Prosecco isn’t added until after heating, all of the alcohol and flavor remains. The texture turned out perfectly and Morgan even recommends adding the zest of a lemon or orange before freezing for an optional citrus twist.
The Caffè e Miele (Italian Espresso and Honey) Gelato was another favorite. Morgan recommends serving this gelato with fresh honeycomb or even pairing it with the Flor di Latte Gelato or some unsweetened whipped cream.
Tiramisu Gelato Recipe
Excerpt from The Art of Making Gelato
- 2 ounces (56 grams) milk powder
- 6.35 ounces (180 grams) granulated sugar
- 0.7 ounces (20 grams) tapioca starch
- 7.6 ounces (215 grams) heavy cream
- 21.15 ounces (600 grams) whole milk
- 0.4 ounces (12 grams) sweet Marsala wine
- 1.15 ounces (33 grams) light corn syrup
- 3 ounces (85 grams) brewed and cooled espresso just over 1 shot
- 2 egg yolks
- 1.75 ounces (60 grams) 60% to 70% dark chocolate finely chopped
- 1.4 ounces (40 grams) ladyfingers crushed or finely chopped
Mix the milk powder, sugar, and tapioca starch in a bowl.
Add the heavy cream, whole milk, and Marsala wine and whisk well to incorporate all of the dry ingredients into the liquid.
Whisk in the corn syrup, espresso, and egg yolks.
Pour the mixture into a 2.5 quart (2.36 liter) saucepan, using a spatula scrape the sides of the bowl. Place the saucepan on medium-high heat and cook, whisking continuously to prevent any burning or clumping. Whisk slowly in the beginning and increase speed as the mixture gets warmer and begins to steam and thicken. It should thicken without boiling after 8-12 minutes on the heat; watch carefully so it doesn't burn. Once the mixture has thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon, continue cooking 15 seconds longer, whisking vigorously. Then immediately remove from the heat.
Pour the mixture into a clean glass or stainless-steel bowl and lay plastic wrap directly on the surface to prevent a skin from forming on top. Allow the mixture to sit 30 to 45 minutes, until no longer hot. Then place in the refrigerator to cool completely, about 4 hours. If the mixture needs to be used right away, submerge most of the bowl in an ice bath and let it sit 30 to 40 minutes, refreshing the ice as necessary.
Once the mixture has cooled completely and thickened further, pour it into the bowl of the gelato machine, gently stir in the dark chocolate and ladyfingers, and churn the gelato according to the manufacturer's directions. The gelato will expand and should spin until it's thick and creamy but still soft enough to scoop into a storage container, about 30 to 55 minutes.
Using a rubber spatula, scoop the gelato into a storage container.
Press a piece of plastic wrap or parchment paper directly on the surface of the gelato, seal the container with an airtight lid, and put it in the freezer.
Freeze at least 4 to 5 hours. When ready, the gelato should be firm enough to scoop but soft and creamy in texture.
Enjoy the fresh gelato as soon as possible. If using after 1 day, allow 7 to 10 minutes for the gelato to soften outside of the freezer before eating.