Adriatico: From Puglia to Venice and Trieste, Recipes from Italy’s Adriatic Coast, written by Paola Bacchia, features an incredible collection of 80 regional recipes inspired by the land along the 750-mile coastline of the Adriatic Sea. A few highlights include Cozze Piccanti (Spicy Marinated Mussels), Fettuccine con Radicchio e Salsiccia (Fettuccine with Radicchio and Pork Sausage), Agnello con Patate al Forno (Lamb and Potato Bake), and Bocconotti (Dark Chocolate and Almond Tarts). I will also be sharing her recipe for Gulasch alla Triestina (Beef Goulash Trieste Style) following the review.
Disclosure: I received a digital copy of this book from Smith Street Books in exchange for my honest review. All comments and opinions are my own.
Adriatico was originally printed in 2018. This review covers the updated 2024 edition.
Paola Bacchia
Paola Bacchia was born and is currently based in Melbourne, Australia. Her parents moved to Melbourne from northeast Italy in 1950. She developed Italy on my Mind in 2011 as a way to share her recipes and stories with others.
Paola runs a cooking school and hosts food and wine tours in Puglia and Trieste. She is also the author of Istria: Recipes and Stories from the Hidden Heart of Italy, Slovenia, and Croatia; At Nonna’s Table; and Italian Street Food.
Adriatico
Paola begins Adriatico with a short introduction. Her inspiration behind the recipes followed a three-month long research trip visiting the seven Italian regions that lie along the Adriatic Coast.
I especially loved the closer look at her time in the area with stories from Veneto, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, the Trabocchi Coast, Le Marche, and more.
She has also included a few notes on basic equipment for making homemade pasta along with special tips for both the egg-based pasta of the north and egg-free pasta more often found in the south.
Chapters are divided according to course: Appetisers, Soups & Bread; Pasta & Rice; Meat & Seafood; Mainly Vegetables; and Sweets.
Paola provides the beautiful photography and food styling. Every recipe is paired with a full page photo of the finished dish. There are also landscape photos throughout the book highlighting the different regions.
Measurements are listed in grams and ounces. Titles are written in Italian and English. Each recipe has a headnote with background information, history, yield, serving ideas, and helpful tips.
Gulasch alla Triestina (Beef Goulash Trieste Style)
To pair with the review, I made Paola’s Gulasch alla Triestina (Beef Goulash Trieste Style)! This comforting dish was perfect for the cold weather we have had recently.
Influenced by the Hungarian Gulyás, Gulasch alla Triestina was developed in the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region (Trieste is the capital) during the time of the Habsburgs. The result is a tender beef stew with a warming blend of both sweet and smoked paprika, red wine, and thinly sliced onions.
I served the Trieste-Style Gulasch with Bread Gnocchi (recipe in book), but it is also delicious with pasta, potatoes, or polenta. Leftovers were even better the second day.
A Few Gulasch alla Triestina Tips
To easily cut the onions into thin slices, Paola recommends using a mandoline. Slowly heat the onions in olive oil until softened and translucent. If starting to become golden, lower the heat.
This recipe uses both smoked paprika and sweet paprika (Hungarian if possible). It really adds to the deep, warming flavors of the Gulasch.
The stew needs to simmer for at least 1 1/2 hours and possibly longer for the beef to become tender. Add a little more water if the mixture becomes too dry during this time.
Adjust the salt and pepper to taste. You may need a little more salt if using water compared to the beef stock.
More Dishes
I also made Salvia Fritta in Pastella (Fried Sage Leaves), Cappelletti di Ravenna in Brodo (Cappelletti in Broth), Gnocchi di Pane con Burro Fuso (Bread Gnocchi with Butter and Cheese), and Favette Triestine (Little Almond Bean Biscuits).
I happened to have a few leftover sage leaves on hand and was immediately drawn to the very first recipe in the book- Salvia Fritta in Pastella (Fried Sage Leaves). Fresh sage leaves are coated lightly in a batter and fried in olive oil until puffed and golden.
The Cappelletti di Ravenna in Brodo (Cappelletti in Broth) was another incredibly comforting meal. A homemade pasta dough is filled with a seasoned ricotta parmesan mixture, folded into Cappelletti (little hats), and served in a golden chicken broth.
I made the Gnocchi di Pane con Burro Fuso (Bread Gnocchi with Butter and Cheese) from Trieste to serve with the Gulasch. It was an amazing pairing. Leftover bread is cut into cubes and combined with mixed deli meat, Parmesan, and parsley. The mixture is formed into balls and simmered until tender.
It was so hard to narrow down which recipe to make in the Sweets chapter. I decided to start with Favette Triestine (Little Almond Bean Biscuits). Made in Trieste for All Souls and All Saints days, these little almond meal-based cookies are colored white (for birth), pink (for life), and brown (for death) before forming into bean shapes and baking until set.
Adriatico is a fantastic pick for those interested in the regional cuisines found along Italy’s Adriatic Coast. There is a wonderful blend of small bites, seafood/meat/vegetable options, desserts, and pasta. Some recipes come together in as little as 30 minutes while others require more prep or resting/simmering times.
Most of the ingredients are readily available in larger American grocery stores. A few items may require locating a specialty market such as baccalà, stinging nettles, beetroot powder, vincotto, cuttlefish, quail, and sultanas.
Gulasch alla Triestina (Beef Goulash Trieste Style) Recipe
Excerpt from Adriatico
Gulasch alla Triestina (Beef Goulash Trieste Style)
Ingredients
- 100 milliliters (3 1/2 fluid ounces) extra virgin olive oil divided
- 700 grams (1 pound 9 ounces) brown onions thinly sliced on a mandoline
- 700 grams (1 pound 9 ounces) chuck steak cut into 1 centimeter (1/2 inch) cubes
- 80 milliliters (1/3 cup) red wine
- 2 teaspoons smoked paprika
- 2 teaspoons sweet paprika
- 2 fresh or dried bay leaves
- 1 rosemary sprig
- 1 tablespoon tomato paste
- 300 milliliters (10 1/2 fluid ounces) hot beef stock or water
- sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Instructions
- Heat 70 milliliters (2 1/4 fluid ounces) of the olive oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over low heat, add the onion and cook, stirring regularly, for 30 minutes or until the onion is very soft and translucent (don't let it brown).
- Meanwhile, heat the remaining olive oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat, add the meat and sear on all sides for a few minutes until it is nicely browned.
- Remove the meat and deglaze the pan with the wine, scraping any bit caught on the base of the pan and allowing some of the liquid to evaporate.
- Pour the wine into the pan with the cooked onion, and add the beef.
- Stir in the smoked and sweet paprika, bay leaves and rosemary sprig.
- Dissolve the tomato paste in the hot stock or water and add to the pan.
- Season to taste with salt and pepper, then cover and simmer over low heat for about 1 1/2 hours until the beef is tender. Add a splash of water if it starts to dry out.
- Taste and adjust the seasoning if needed, then serve with your favorite pasta or mashed potatoes.
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