Zao Fan: Breakfast of China, written by Michael Zee, features a diverse collection of regional Chinese breakfast recipes adapted for the home kitchen alongside gorgeous photography and stories. A few highlights include Shacha Mian (Satay Noodles), Jianbing Guozi (Northern Chinese Folded Crêpe), Xibo Bingzi (Xibonese Bread), Liusha Bao (Salted Egg Custard Buns), and Liangban Huang Luobo Si (Uyghur Carrot Slaw). I will also be sharing his recipe for Qing Tang Mian (Clear Broth Noodles) following the review.
Disclosure: I received a digital copy of this book from Interlink Books in exchange for my honest review. All comments and opinions are my own.
Michael Zee
Michael Zee is a photographer, recipe developer, and creator behind SymmetryBreakfast. His work has been featured in the Guardian, Washington Post, Telegraph, and more.
This is his third book. Michael is also the author of Cook Love Share and Eat Like a Local SHANGHAI.
He spent five years living in Shanghai; has resided in London, Bologna, and Rome; and is currently based in Milan, Italy.
Zao Fan: Breakfast of China
Michael begins Zao Fan with an introduction and an incredibly detailed account of breakfast traditions across China with a closer look at the people and history behind the food.
He states, “This book is a culmination of three important parts of my life: my love of breakfast and food, my love of China, and my love of photography, all mixed with my desire to break down barriers, to teach and to share in a way that is accessible and enjoyable.”
I especially love the distinctions between the regions and how their cuisines have been shaped with a focus on different flavors and cooking styles. Current trends are even mentioned.
Michael has also put together a dedicated website for the book: Zao Fan: Breakfast of China. Many recipes are paired with QR codes linking to when he experienced these meals in person. This is such a beautiful touch.
Chapters are divided according to the following: Noodles (Mian), Breads and Doughs (Mian Bao), Rice and Other Grains (Wugu Zaliang), Xibonese Breakfast (Xibo Zao Fan), Soy and Tofu (Doufu), Eggs and Some Meat (Jidan He Roulei), Dumplings (Jiaozi), Morning Tea (Yum Cha), Soups (Tang), and Sauces and Pickles (Paocai He Jiang).
Michael also provides the beautiful photography. Most of the recipes are paired with at least one full-page photo of the finished dish. The book is also packed with location photos from his travels.
Measurements are listed in US Customary and Metric. Titles are written in the original language (Hanzi/or Arabic when applicable and Romanized script) with the English translation underneath. Every recipe has a detailed headnote with background information, inspiration behind the dish, yield, serving ideas, and helpful notes.
Qing Tang Mian (Clear Broth Noodles)
To pair with this review, I made Michael’s Qing Tang Mian (清汤面, Clear Broth Noodles)!
He was inspired by the soup and breakfast he enjoyed at Man Kou Xiang Zao Can (translating to “a mouthful of fragrant breakfast”) in Turpan, Xinjiang.
Along with the clear broth noodles, he had “a selection of baozi, cold salads, thin-skinned dumplings dusted with ground cumin, and an enormous piece of bone with a sharp knife for cutting off the fat and cartilage.”
Made in a similar manner to what he enjoyed at the restaurant, this Qing Tang Mian recipe has a flavorful beef bone broth as the base. It is served with noodles, a spoonful of chopped raw garlic, finely diced red chile seasoned with a little salt, thinly sliced beef, and chopped, raw spinach for a vibrant green contrast.
To finish, a spoonful of Shanxi mature vinegar is drizzled over the top immediately before serving.
Notable Ingredients
For best results, use a high-quality beef bone broth for the base. Michael recommends visiting a butcher or delicatessen. He has also included a recipe for a homemade broth in the book.
Alkaline noodles (碱水面) have an alkaline component in the dough (such as lye water), giving the noodles a yellowish color and elastic, springy texture. I used store-bought, but Red House Spice has a recipe for Homemade Alkaline Noodles if they are unavailable.
Bird’s eye chilies are small, but pack quite the kick. These thin, pointed peppers are green as they grow, then turn red with maturity. Adjust the amount between 3-4 based on personal preference.
I kept the seeds in the chilies as noted in the recipe, but removing them will also decrease the heat level. On the Scoville scale, these chilies land between the cayenne and habanero. They can be found in the produce section of markets with Southeast Asian ingredients.
Shanxi Mature Vinegar (山西老陈醋) is a sorghum-based aged vinegar with a thicker consistency and complexity compared to other varieties. It can be found in the vinegar section of some markets with Chinese ingredients. Michael states you can use Zhenjiang (Chinkiang) vinegar with a little liquid smoke as a substitute.
For those in Northern Virginia, I was able to locate the noodles, chiles, and Shanxi mature vinegar at Lotte Plaza Market in Chantilly.
More Breakfast
I also made Juntun Guo Kui (Numbing Meat Pies), Jiucai Lajiang (Garlic Chive and Red Pepper Salad), Beijing Guotie (Beijing Pot Stickers Two Ways), and Jingdezhen Rou Bing Tang (Jingdezhen Meatball Soup).
Translating to “pot helmet,” Guo Kui (Numbing Meat Pies) are originally from the Shaanxi province with variations spreading to nearby regions and cities. These Juntun Guo Kui were inspired by Michael’s visit to Chengdu. The round breads are laminated with a Sichuan pepper-spiced pork mixture and pan-fried, then baked to create a fantastic blend of flavors and textures.
The Jiucai Lajiang (Garlic Chive and Red Pepper Salad) is a wonderful accompaniment to a Xibonese breakfast spread. Roasted red peppers are finely diced and combined with chopped garlic chives, pepper flakes, and a pinch of salt. I made this originally to use up some extra garlic chives, but it quickly became a favorite.
The Jiaozi (Dumplings) chapter has such an amazing selection of dumplings in a variety of styles. My kids requested Beijing Guotie (Beijing Pot Stickers Two Ways). Michael has included two filling options (we made both) for these open ended dumplings: egg/garlic chive and pork. After assembling in the homemade wrappers, the guotie are pan-fried until crisp and finished with a signature crunchy texture created from water mixed with cornstarch. They are served hot from the pan with a bit of vinegar and chile crisp for dipping.
The Jingdezhen Rou Bing Tang (Jingdezhen Meatball Soup) was another favorite with the family. A clear Mao Tang (simple broth) is steamed in a porcelain bowl with a single ground pork meatball and served with finely chopped scallions and a dash of white pepper.
Zao Fan is a fantastic pick for those interested in regional Chinese cuisine with a focus on breakfast. Many of the recipes center around noodles, bread, and dumplings (all of my favorite things!). Some come together in less than 30 minutes, while others require longer resting times and/or prep. Following the index, Michael has made a list of vegan, vegetarian, and gluten-free recipes with page number for easy reference.
There is also a glossary of notable ingredients and their uses in the book. Having a market with Chinese ingredients will be helpful for a few of the recipes. Some more difficult to locate ingredients include Chinese sesame paste, Sichuan pepper, zhacai (pickled mustard greens), mung bean flour, Shaoxing wine, dried shrimp, taro, glutinous rice, lotus root, and more.
Qing Tang Mian (Clear Broth Noodles) Recipe
Excerpt from Zao Fan
Qing Tang Mian (Clear Broth Noodles)
Ingredients
- 3 1/2 ounces (100 grams) dried or (200 grams) fresh alkaline noodles
- 3-4 bird's eye chiles divided
- 3-4 garlic cloves chopped or grated into a paste
- 1 teaspoon water
- 1 1/4 cups (300 milliliters) good-quality beef broth
- 1/4 cup (50 grams) spinach roughly chopped
- 3-4 thin slices of beef optional
- 2 tablespoons Shanxi mature vinegar
- Salt
Instructions
- Bring a large pot of water to a boil and cook the noodles according to the package instructions, then drain and rinse under cold water. Set aside.
- Reserve one of the chiles and finely chop the rest, with the seeds.
- Add the chopped chiles to a bowl with a small pinch of salt. Stir and set aside.
- Put the garlic into a bowl with a small pinch of salt and the water. Stir and set aside.
- Pour the beef broth into a pot and add the reserved chile, then bring to a gentle simmer.
- Divide the noodles between two bowls and pour over the beef broth.
- Add the spinach and stir it in until it wilts, then top with a generous spoonful of the garlic, some chopped chile, and a few beef slices, if using.
- Add a drizzle of vinegar and serve immediately.
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