Classic German Cooking: The Very Best Recipes for Traditional Favorites, from Semmelknödel to Sauerbraten, written by Luisa Weiss, features an incredible collection of regional and seasonal recipes from Germany and neighboring countries. A few highlights include Apfelküchle (Apple Fritters with Cinnamon-Sugar), Kartoffelsuppe (Potato-Sausage Soup), Hühnerfrikassee (Chicken Fricasse), Thüringer Klöße, and Rote Grütze mit Vanillesoße (Red Berry Pudding with Vanilla Sauce). I will also be sharing her recipe for Quarkbällchen (Quark Fritters) following the review.
Disclosure: I received this book from Ten Speed Press in exchange for my honest review. All comments and opinions are my own. This post contains Amazon affiliate links. If you purchase something through the link, I may receive a small commission at no extra charge to you.
Luisa Weiss
Luisa Weiss is an Italian-American food writer born and currently based in Berlin, Germany. She created the blog, The Wednesday Chef, in 2005, as a way to share and organize recipes she had collected over the years.
Her work has been featured on Design*Sponge, National Public Radio, Food & Wine, Wall Street Journal, Boston Globe, Harper’s Bazaar Germany, and more. Luisa is also the author of Classic German Baking and My Berlin Kitchen.
Classic German Cooking
Luisa begins Classic German Cooking with an introduction and a bit of the history surrounding the flavors and influences that have shaped German cuisine. She also shares a few notes on staple ingredients, equipment, and cultural insights into food-related traditions such as Abendbrot and breakfast essentials.
Chapters are divided according to the following: Breakfast, Snacks & Spreads; Salads; Soups & Stews; Vegetarian Main Courses; Meat & Fish; Sweet Main Courses; Vegetables, Potatoes & Dumplings; and Desserts.
The photography is provided by Elena Heatherwick. Many of the recipes are paired with a beautifully styled, full-page photo of the finished dish. There are also a few step-by-step photos demonstrating specific techniques such as wrapping Kohlrouladen (Stuffed Cabbage Rolls) and forming Maultaschen (Swabian Meat and Spinach Dumplings).
Measurements are listed in US Customary and Metric. Titles are written in German and English. Each recipe has a headnote with background information, personal stories, yield, serving ideas, and helpful tips.
Quarkbällchen (Quark Fritters)
When reviewing Luisa’s previous book, Classic German Baking, I shared a recipe for her Quarkstollen (German Quark-Almond Sweet Bread). I figured I would follow a bit of a theme and share something Quark-related again, so this time I made her Quarkbällchen (Quark Fritters)!
Quarkbällchen are soft and tender balls of dough that are fried until golden and finished with a sugar coating. They are especially perfect for the holiday season. The fritters also come together easily with no yeast or resting times required.
Simply bring together the quark-based dough, fry the individual rounds in hot oil until puffed and golden, then coat in granulated sugar while still warm.
The Quarkbällchen are best the day they are fried, especially while still warm.
Quark
Translating to curds in German, Quark (Topfen in Austria) is a sour fresh cheese with a variety of uses. It adds a soft, tender texture to the fritters. There are different versions, but Luisa used low-fat and nonfat (Magerquark) when developing the recipes. Make sure it is unsweetened and unflavored.
Quark can sometimes be found in the specialty cheese or dairy section of larger American grocery stores or markets with Central European ingredients. For those in the DC area, I have sometimes been able to find it at German Gourmet in Falls Church, Virginia (though they are often out of stock).
Luisa has included a recipe for homemade Quark in the book.
A Few Quarkbällchen Tips
Do not pack in the flour when measuring or you may end up with too much. To measure flour, gently spoon it into the measuring cup and level with a knife without pressing down. The most accurate way to measure is by weight.
The lemon zest is optional, but adds a wonderful hint of bright citrus flavor that compliments the Quark.
An ice cream scoop (ideally with a spring mechanism) is best for easily getting individual rounds of dough in roughly the same size. Luisa states that if you don’t have an ice cream scoop, you can portion the batter with soup spoons. If the batter starts to stick, I usually dip the scoop briefly in oil between batches.
Keep the temperature of the oil around 350˚F (180˚C) and adjust as needed. Too low and the Quarkbällchen won’t fry and will just soak in the oil. Too high and they will become too dark before the center has had a chance to cook.
It is easiest to keep track of the temperature with a candy thermometer. If you don’t have one, Luisa states you can put the handle of a wooden spoon into the oil. The temperature is hot enough if bubbles form around the handle.
Do not overcrowd the pan. Fry only up to five fritters at once. They need room to puff up without bringing down the temperature of the oil.
Roll the freshly fried Quarkbällchen in the sugar while still warm. This will help the sugar stick to the exterior. I have come across some with cinnamon or vanilla sugar mixed into the sugar coating.
While in Switzerland, we saw Quarkbällchen in bakeries under the name Quarkini.
More Dishes
I also made Rheinische Zwiebelsuppe (Onion and Sausage Soup), Kapressknödel (Pan-Fried Cheesy Bread Dumplings), Paprika Geschnetzeltes (Sliced Chicken with Peppers and Paprika), and Schokoladenpudding mit Vanillesoße (Chocolate Pudding with Vanilla Sauce).
I was so excited to see the recipe for Rheinische Zwiebelsuppe (Onion and Sausage Soup) in the book. A personal favorite, this comforting soup comes from Nordrhein-Westfalen (North Rhine-Westphalia). A beef broth base is filled with sautéed onions, smoked sausage slices, tender potato pieces, and toasted bread cubes.
The recipe for Kapressknödel (Pan-Fried Cheesy Bread Dumplings) was inspired by Luisa and her family’s time in Austria. These patty-shaped dumplings are filled with cubed bread, grated Alpine cheese, sautéed onions, eggs, and herbs before pan-frying on each side. I enjoyed them in a beef broth with minced chives.
A delicious variation of Zürcher Geschnetzeltes, Paprika Geschnetzeltes brings together thinly sliced chicken and bell peppers in a creamy paprika white wine sauce. It all takes less than 30 minutes for an easy weeknight option. I paired the meal with egg noodles, but it would also be perfect with Spätzle or rice.
The Schokoladenpudding mit Vanillesoße (Chocolate Pudding with Vanilla Sauce) was a favorite with the kids. This creamy, lightly sweetened chocolate pudding base has a rich chocolate flavor that compliments the vanilla sauce topping beautifully. You can also serve the Schokopudding with whipped cream or even layer it with Vanillepudding (recipe also in book) for a more striking presentation.
Classic German Cooking is a fantastic pick for those interested in nostalgic, homestyle German cuisine along with a handful of Swiss and Austrian favorites. Some recipes come together easily for a quick snack or weeknight meal. Others require a little more prep and are best for weekend dinners.
Most of the ingredients are readily available in larger American grocery stores. Having a market nearby with German or Central European items will be helpful in locating almond paste, gelatin sheets, lingonberry preserves, red currants, juniper berries, goose fat, and semolina flour.
Quarkbällchen (Quark Fritters) Recipe
Excerpt from Classic German Cooking
Quarkbällchen (Quark Fritters)
Ingredients
Topping:
- 1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar for rolling
Quarkbällchen:
- 1 cup plus 3 tablespoons (300 grams) Quark
- 2 eggs
- 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons (75 grams) granulated sugar
- Pinch salt
- 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
- Grated zest of 1/2 lemon optional
- 1 2/3 cups (scant, 200 grams) all-purpose flour
- 1 teaspoon baking powder
- 4 cups (1 liter) vegetable oil
Instructions
- Place a cooling rack over a sheet pan.
- Place about 1 cup (200 grams) sugar in a wide plate for coating the fritters. Set aside.
- Place the Quark in a mixing bowl and whisk in the eggs.
- Then whisk in the 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons of sugar, the salt, vanilla, and zest, if using.
- In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour and baking powder.
- Switching to a wooden spoon, beat in the flour mixture just until well-combined. Don't overmix. Set aside.
- Pour the oil into a medium pot and set over medium-high heat. Bring the oil to 350˚F (180˚C). When the oil is at the right temperature, regulate the heat to keep the temperature steady.
- Using an ice cream scoop, scoop five fritters into the pot.
- Let them cook, turning once, for 3 to 4 minutes. They should be golden brown all over. If they are browning too quickly, that is a sign that the oil is too hot.
- Using a spider or fork, remove the fritters carefully from the oil and place on the cooling rack just for a moment while you portion the next round of fritters and place them in the oil.
- While the second round of fritters is in the oil, roll the first batch of fritters in the bowl of sugar.
- Put the sugared fritters back on the cooling rack.
- Repeat with the remaining batter and sugar.
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