A recipe for Schmalznudeln (Bavarian-Style Doughnuts) inspired by my time in Munich, Germany! These yeast-based doughnuts have a thin, nearly translucent center surrounded by soft, pillowy edges.
Last month, I spent a few days in Munich and Frankfurt am Main, Germany with one of my best friends who recently graduated with her master’s degree! We had such a wonderful time exploring the cities and checking out all the seasonal Christmas markets.
Today, I will be covering our time in Munich (but will be saving information about the specific Christmas markets for another post later this year) along with a recipe for Schmalznudeln (Bavarian-Style Doughnuts).
München/Munich
Munich (München in German) is the capital and largest city of Bavaria in southern Germany.
The city is packed with restaurants, bakeries, shops, museums, palaces, parks, and outdoor spaces along with a unique blend of historical and more modern architecture. It is also home to the annual Oktoberfest in the fall and themed Christmas markets in December.
The official language is German. I got around using somewhat passable Standard German, but often heard the regional Bavarian dialect and English. Most of the signs in the area and menus at the restaurants we visited had an English option.
In Germany, the currency is the Euro. I used a mixture of cash (mostly at the Christmas market stands and smaller stores) and credit card. Make sure to have smaller 0.50-1 Euro coins for public bathrooms, even in stores and some larger restaurants.
Getting to Munich
To get to Munich, I flew nonstop from Dulles International Airport (IAD) to Flughafen München „Franz Josef Strauß“/Munich International Airport (MUC). The flight was a little over 8 hours.
From the airport, there are regular S1 and S8 trains to the city center. The trip takes about 45 minutes with trains leaving around every 15-20 minutes.
Once you get to the city center, much of the area is walkable and relatively flat. The area is also well-connected with the S-Bahn, U-Bahn, buses, and trams.
On days when we needed public transport, Tori and I used a Group Day Ticket (Gruppen-Tageskarte) within the M Zone to reach everything included in this post (except for the airport which requires Zone 5).
Since we bought the ticket each morning from the ticket machine in the S-Bahn station, I chose to have it pre-validated. If the ticket is not already validated with a date/time on the card, make sure to stamp it in one of the small blue boxes before entering the S-Bahn/U-Bahn.
Julius Brantner Brothandwerk
Following a brief detour at the hotel to drop off my luggage, my very first food stop after landing in Munich was Julius Brantner Brothandwerk for a much needed coffee (Flat White) and a delicious Bio Schwäbische Brezel (Swabian Pretzel).
Julius Brantner Brothandwerk features organic, handmade breads, rolls, and pastries, along with daily specials and coffee. There is another location at Nordendstraße 23, but the one at Kreuzstraße 1 is their Brezelbackstube.
Their Schwäbische Brezel is made with sourdough and looped by hand to create a wonderful contrast between the soft base and thin, crispy ends.
Marienplatz
After enjoying the coffee and pretzel, I walked over to Marienplatz. One of the most notable areas in München, Marienplatz is the main large square in Altstadt bordered by shops, cafés, the Neues Rathaus (New City Hall), and the Altes Rathaus (Old City Hall).
Dating back to 1158, much the area was damaged in 1944-1945, then rebuilt according to the original plans. The Altes Rathaus rests on the right side of the square. It was originally built during the 14th century and housed the government until 1874. Now, it is home to the Spielzeugmuseum (Toy Museum).
The Neues Rathaus was completed in 1905 in the Neo-Gothic style. It currently houses the city government, but some rooms are open to the public along with a panoramic view from the observation tower (access via elevator).
The Glockenspiel rises above the square on the tower of the Neues Rathaus. This mechanical clock has 43 bells and 32 figures that chime and move for 15 minutes at 11 am and noon daily, plus an additional performance at 5 pm from March to October.
During December, the square was filled with the Christkindlmarkt. Other events take place throughout the year.
Rischart
On a Sunday morning before getting on the train to Frankfurt am Main, we stopped by Rischart’s Marienplatz location for a few sweet and savory treats.
Rischart is a local bakery chain dating back to 1883 in Isarvorstadt. Many of the restaurants and shops in Munich are closed on Sundays, but they are open daily. We grabbed our pastries to-go, though there is also café seating overlooking Marienplatz.
There were so many different options to choose from. We ultimately decided on the Bayerische Schnittlauchbreze mit Frischkäse und Schnittlauch (pretzel with fresh cheese and chives), Nussschnecke gefüllt mit feinen Haselnüssen und Marzipan (nut roll filled with finely chopped hazelnuts and marzipan), Focaccia Antipasti, and Apfelschnecke (apple roll).
LEGO Store München Zentrum
Just to the left of Marienplatz is Germany’s largest LEGO store at Kaufingerstraße 9. LEGO Store München Zentrum opened in 2022 and is packed with everything LEGO across two levels and 557m².
I especially loved the focus on Bavaria with replicas of the Neues Rathaus and Marienplatz, pretzels everywhere, the portrait of Schloss Neuschwanstein, and more.
OBACHT’ Der Laden für Heimatgefühl
For a few fun souvenirs, we stopped by OBACHT’ Der Laden für Heimatgefühl.
This small souvenir shop east of Marienplatz at Ledererstraße 17 is packed with Bavarian home goods, towels, ornaments, toys, pantry items, clothing, and even products for dogs.
I took home a bag of pretzel-shaped pasta (but haven’t quite decided how to use it yet).
Kanso Coffee Lab
On the afternoon of my first day in Munich, I stopped by Kanso Coffee Lab to help fight off some of the jet lag.
Kanso Coffee Lab is tucked away in a small courtyard at Theatinerstraße 35 with indoor counter seating and a few outdoor tables. Their curated menu focuses solely on coffee prepared beautifully. I especially loved the latte art and the laminated card with detailed notes on the drink.
Residenz
Munich is also home to the largest city palace in Germany with 130 rooms accessible to visitors. Residenz München served as the seat of the government and residence to the Bavarian royal family from 1508 to 1918 before opening to the public in 1920. Much of the complex was destroyed in WWII and has slowly been reconstructed.
Check hours of operation and admission prices before visiting as they are subject to change. At the time of this post (2025), the Residenz is open daily apart from January 1st, Shrove Tuesday, and December 24/25/31.
Tickets are available at the entrance for either the Residenz, Schatzkammer (Treasury), or Cuvilliés Theatre or a combination ticket to include two or all three. During peak hours, there could be a long line at the entrance as they stagger visitors to minimize crowds.
A few highlights include the Antiquarium (photo below- the oldest room in the Munich Residence and most lavish Renaissance hall north of the Alps), Steinzimmer (Stone Rooms), Bronzesäle (Bronze Halls with over 40 original bronze sculptures dating from the late 16th to the early 17th centuries), Reiche Zimmer (Rich Rooms), Charlottenzimmer (Charlotte Rooms), Allerheiligen-Hofkirche (All Saints’ Court Church), and the royal apartment of Ludwig I.
Allow for at least two hours to walk through the Residenz at a fairly fast pace. There are no regular guided tours, but audio guides (German, English, French, Italian, Spanish, Russian, Chinese, Japanese and Arabic) are available at no extra cost.
In December, the Kaiserhof (Imperial Courtyard) holds das Weihnachtsdorf (the Christmas Village market).
Liebighof
For our final dinner in Munich, we had a wonderful meal at Liebighof im Lehel at Liebigstraße 14.
This Wirtshaus in the Altstadt-Lehel district features traditional Bavarian cuisine along with daily and seasonal menus. Reservations are recommended and available via a form on their website. I loved how festively decorated the interior was for the holidays.
Tori picked the Liebighofs Spezialpfanne (Bratkartoffeln mit Speck und Zwiebeln, Black Angus Rinderlendensteak und Spiegeleier/panfried potatoes with bacon and onions, sirloin steak, and fried eggs).
I went with the personal favorite Schwäbische Spätzlepfanne mit Champignon-Rahm-Sauce und Schweinefilet (Swabian Spätzle with mushroom cream sauce and pork).
Viktualienmarkt
One of my absolute favorite spots in Munich is the Viktualienmarkt located south of the Marienplatz.
This outdoor market is lined with roughly 140 stalls featuring everything from cheese, chocolate, baked goods, and coffee to pasta, flowers, spices, fish, meat, local specialties, and even a Biergarten.
Münchner Käse Manufaktur
Münchner Käse Manufaktur is a Käserei (cheese manufacturer) with a stand at the Viktualienmarkt. They also have a shop in Bogenhausen.
Starting around 11:30, they make quite the incredible grilled cheese just outside the shop using Gruyére from Alain Cardinaux, Vintage Cheddar, Dinkelblüte (spelt blossom) bread from Lokalbäckerei Brotzeit in Grünwald, and pickled vegetables from Josch.
Münchner Suppenküche
Münchner Suppenküche am Viktualienmarkt has one of my absolute favorite comfort foods- Rinderbrühe mit Maultaschen (beef broth with pork and spinach dumplings).
This stand features a delicious assortment of soups with a focus on fresh, natural, and regional ingredients. The kitchen is surrounded by covered seating, but it can definitely get busy at peak times. They also have restaurants at Theresienhöhe and Sendlinger Straße.
Lea Zapf Marktpatisserie
Before our day trip to Nürnberg, we stopped by Lea Zapf Marktpatisserie for a quick breakfast.
Lea Zapf Marktpatisserie is located on the southern end of the Viktualienmarkt with a fantastic assortment of specialty drinks and pastries. It was one of our favorite morning stops while in Munich.
Ordering is inside at the counter with relaxed covered seating around the outside (or you can take it to-go).
We ordered Flat Whites, Blättriges Brioche mit Zimt (flaky brioche with cinnamon), and Brioloni (one plain and one with red currant jam- so so good).
Schmalznudel Café Frischhut
On our first full morning in Munich, we stopped by Schmalznudel Café Frischhut for doughnuts and coffee.
Schmalznudel Café Frischhut is located just southwest of the Viktualienmarkt at Prälat-Zistl-Straße 8. They feature a selection of freshly made Bavarian pastries, coffee, and other specialty drinks. There are a couple of tables by the entrance with another dining room in the back. As a note, the café is cash only.
I picked the Schmalznudel, a fried piece of dough with thicker edges and a paper-thin center along with a cup of Milchkaffee (milk coffee). Tori went with the Krapfen (doughnut with a jam filling).
Deutsches Museum
Situated on an island in the Isar River between the Altstadt and Au-Haidhausen, the Deutsches Museum is one of the biggest (if not the biggest) science and technology museums in the world.
Founded on June 28th, 1903, the museum has grown to 20 permanent exhibits across 20,000 m² of space featuring roughly 50 different fields including robotics, chemistry, astronautics, health, agriculture, and more.
I especially loved the Photography and Film exhibit focusing on developments over the last 200 years with 1,200 objects on display. They even have a section on smart phones, which is a new addition since my last visit in 2010.
I fast walked through the exhibits and got through most of the building in about 3 hours. This museum is best seen in at least 2 hours for a quick overview or up to a full day to really take everything in at a relaxed pace. There are also daily events, demonstrations, and hands-on activities (in German).
The museum is currently open daily 357 days a year. Check the hours of operation and admission prices before visiting. Backpacks and bags larger than a sheet of A4 paper must be stored in lockers (€1 coin for deposit) in the cloakroom.
Wirtshaus in der Au
For our first dinner, we had reservations at Wirtshaus in der Au at Lilienstraße 51 in Au-Haidhausen.
Wirtshaus in der Au is a Bavarian-Style Restaurant and Biergarten first established in 1901. They focus on Knödel (dumplings), seasonal favorites, beer, wine, cocktails, soups, appetizers, salads, Wirtshaus classics, desserts, and a kids menu.
The restaurant was beautifully decorated for the season with indoor/outdoor seating and reservations (highly recommended) are available through their website or on OpenTable.
We ordered the following:
- „Valentin Burgunder“ Grauer Burgunder- Deutscher Qualitätswein, Weingut Geisser- Pfalz.
- „Auer Weihnachtspunsch“ Himmlischer Punsch aus kräftigem Rotwein, frischen Fruchtsäften, Zimt, und Nelken. Heavenly Christmas punch with strong red wine, fresh fruit juices, cinnamon, and cloves.
- Rahmige, herzgemachte Suppe vom Knollensellerie mit karamellisierten Apfelwürfeln. Creamy, hearty celeriac soup with caramelized apple cubes.
- Zweierlei vom Kas- Frisch anbatzter Obatzda und hausgemachter Brotzeitkas mit Brezn. Two types of cheese spreads with pretzel.
- Das Knödeltrio (this made me so happy)- Spinatknödel auf Kirschtomatensoße, Rote Beeteknödel auf Apfel-Selleriegemüse, Knödel vom Bio-Käse mit frischem Blattspinat- spinach dumplings over cherry tomato sauce, red beet dumplings over apple and celery vegetables, and cheese dumplings with fresh spinach leaves.
Buchhandlung am Gasteig
While walking to Wirtshaus in der Au, we came across Buchhandlung am Gasteig at Rosenheimer Straße 12.
This small bookstore is packed with a variety of books across two levels along with stationery, cards, and a kids’ section. I ended up taking home the cookbook, Zauberhafte Weihnachtsküche: Das große Koch- und Backbuch für die schönste Zeit (Magical Christmas Kitchen: The Big Cooking and Baking Book for the Most Beautiful Time).
Schloss Nymphenburg
A little further from the city center (but still within Zone M) is the gorgeous Schloss Nymphenburg in the Neuhausen-Nymphenburg district.
Serving as a summer residence for Bavarian royalty, construction on the Baroque palace began in 1664 based on the plans of north Italian architect Agostino Barelli. The initial complex was nearly complete in 1679 with additional pavilions and enhancements to the galleries built during the 1700s.
Today, around 21 rooms are accessible to the public (the Bedroom and Lacquer Cabinet in the Electress’s Apartment were closed for restoration during our visit, but set to reopen soon). A few highlights include the stunning Festsaal (Great Hall), Kabinett (Cabinet), Südliche Galerie (South Gallery) with paintings of the electoral palaces, and the Queen’s bedchamber (birthplace of King Ludwig II).
We especially enjoyed seeing the Marstallmuseum as well. Situated at a separate entrance in the Riding Stables on the left side of the palace, this museum houses over 40 carriages and sleighs from the House of Wittelsbach and the Museum of Nymphenburg Porcelain.
As we were visiting in December, the park and gardens were closed to visitors.
Check the hours of operation and admission prices before visiting. Hours vary based on the season and some areas such as the park and park palaces are closed during the winter.
Tickets are available onsite for either Schloss Nymphenburg alone or a combination ticket (Schloss Nymphenburg + Marstallmuseum + Park Palaces in summer and only Nymphenburg + Marstallmuseum in winter).
There are no regular guided tours, but audio guides (German, English, Italian, French, Spanish, Portuguese, Russian, Mandarin, Japanese) are available for an extra fee. Allow for at least two hours to visit the palace.
Suuapinga
Suuapinga’s Haidhausen location at Wiener Platz 3 was just a short walk from our hotel.
The name of this specialty coffee shop was inspired by one of the oldest neighborhoods in Munich- Schwabing, which in the year 782 was initially mentioned as Suuapinga.
We enjoyed the Flat White and Cardamom Bun for a delicious start to the day.
Hilton Munich City Center
While in Munich, we stayed at Hilton Munich City at Rosenheimer Straße 15. The location was perfect and the Juliet Rose Bar onsite was definitely a highlight.
Hilton Munich City has direct access to the Rosenheimer Platz station via an elevator so we were able to travel to/from the airport and to the Hauptbahnhof with our luggage without ever stepping outside. It is about a 20 minute walk to Marienplatz or a quick ride via the S-Bahn with two stops.
We stayed in a King Room with a quiet view of the courtyard. The room was basic, clean, and comfortable with a small table, chaise lounge, television (which I actually never turned on), plenty of counter space, large shower, and air conditioning in a 25 sq. m./269 sq. ft. space.
Juliet Rose Bar
The Juliet Rose Bar is located on the ground floor and we ended up stopping by twice for the fun, inventive cocktails and small bites.
Along with seasonal offerings, the cocktail menu is packed with multiple pages of curated drinks. There are also non-alcoholic and one-sip options. A selection of small and larger plates are available from the restaurant, MONA, next door.
I particularly enjoyed the S‘peach‘less (Johnnie Walker Black Label infused with Cinnamon, Fresh Lemon Juice, Gomme, Peach Jam, Rosemary) and Juliet Rose Cheesecake Cocktail (Licellino Limoncello, Fresh Lemon Juice, Gomme, Ricotta Cream Cheese).
Overall, I had such a wonderful time in Munich and can’t wait to visit again. We spent 5 nights here with a day trip to Nürnberg on one of the days. Since our focus was on the Christmas markets, there is still so much of the city we didn’t get to such as the Englischer Garten, Olympiapark, more museums, and climbing the 306 steps at Alter Peter.
I would allow for at least 3 days to get a good overview of München and see a few highlights.
Schmalznudeln (Bavarian-Style Doughnuts)
Inspired by the Schmalznudel I enjoyed at Schmalznudel Café Frischhut, I wanted to try making these delicious doughnuts at home!
Schmalznudeln are fried rounds of dough popular throughout Bavaria and Franconia in Germany, Tirol in Austria, and other nearby regions. They go by many names depending on the area and country.
In Munich, we also saw them called Ausgezogene at the Christmas Market stands. At the Christmas market in Nürnberg, they were labeled as Fränkische Küchle. Other names include Kiachl, Knieküchle, and Bauernkrapfen.
I enjoyed the Schmalznudeln just as I had them in Munich, with a sprinkling of powdered sugar and alongside Milchkaffee (milk coffee). In Tirol, you can find the center area filled with fruit or even sauerkraut for a more savory option.
Forming the Schmalznudeln
I used my Berliner dough as the starting point for this recipe using all-purpose flour. If you have access to German flour, the dough can be made with Weizenmehl Type 405. For those in Northern Virginia, I’ve come across the flour at German Gourmet in Falls Church.
Do not pack in the flour when measuring or you may end up with too much. To measure flour, gently spoon it into the measuring cup and level with a knife without pressing down. The most accurate way to measure is by weight.
When adding the yeast to the milk, make sure the milk isn’t too hot or it will damage the yeast. The temperature should be about 105˚F (40˚C)- just warm enough to activate. Allow to rest at room temperature until frothy, about 10 minutes.
If the dough is too crumbly and just won’t come together after mixing everything together thoroughly, add some more milk a splash at a time. Give it some time to blend fully with the flour before adding more.
Add just enough flour to create a smooth and workable dough. Too much flour or overworking will cause the Schmalznudeln to become dense.
In a warm kitchen, the first rise should take about 1-1 1/2 hours to double in size. During the winter with cooler temperatures, it sometimes takes closer to 2 hours.
Same goes for the second rise before frying. Warmer kitchens may only need 30 minutes while cooler temperatures will need closer to an hour.
I’ve read that traditionally the Schmalznudeln were shaped by stretching the dough against a knee (as the name Knieküchle suggests) until thin in the center with the thicker edges. I don’t think my family would have appreciated that, so I formed them in a similar fashion to working with pizza crust- by gently stretching in a circle.
Do not stretch out the center part until immediately before adding to the hot oil. You want it to stay as thin as possible. If a hole does form as you stretch the center, patch the dough back together and press lightly to seal.
Keep the temperature of the oil no higher than 340˚F (170˚C) and adjust as needed. Too low and the doughnuts won’t fry and will just soak in the oil. Too high and they will become too dark before fully cooked.
Allow the center to puff up for 1-2 minutes in the oil to set the shape before flipping and frying the other side.
A Few Schmalznudel Tips
I added a little lemon zest for some bright contrast to the fried flavor. You can also swap for a little vanilla or splash of rum.
As the name translates to “lard noodles,” these doughnuts are traditionally fried in lard. If not available, fry the dough in vegetable oil as I did.
I sprinkled the warm Ausgezogene with powdered sugar. I have also seen them with cinnamon sugar.
These Schmalznudeln are best while still warm and definitely within a few hours of frying, but will keep for up to a day at room temperature in an airtight container. Do not dust with powdered sugar until immediately before serving.
Schmalznudeln (Bavarian-Style Doughnuts) Recipe
Adapted from Süss
Schmalznudeln (Bavarian-Style Doughnuts)
Ingredients
- 2 1/4 teaspoons (7 grams) active dry yeast
- 1 1/4 cups (300 milliliters) lukewarm milk 105-115˚F, 40-46˚C
- 4 cups (500 grams) all-purpose flour
- 1/4 cup (50 grams) granulated sugar
- 1 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 1 large egg
- 1 large egg yolk
- 4 tablespoons (56 grams) unsalted butter softened at room temperature
- Lard or vegetable oil for frying
- Powdered sugar for dusting
Instructions
- In a small bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the lukewarm milk. Stir briefly and allow to sit at room temperature until frothy, about 10 minutes.
- In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook or a large bowl, combine the flour, sugar, lemon zest, and salt.
- Mix in the milk and frothy yeast mixture, egg, egg yolk, and butter until a soft dough forms.
- Knead on a lightly floured surface just until elastic and smooth. Place in a large bowl, cover, and allow to rest at room temperature until doubled, 1-2 hours.
- On a lightly floured surface, divide the dough into 10 equal pieces (or 8 pieces for larger doughnuts).
- Roll each piece into a smooth ball, then flatten into a disc about 1/2 inch (1.25 centimeters) thick.
- Cover the discs with a towel and allow to rest at room temperature until puffed, about 30 minutes.
- Pour 2 inches (5 centimeters) of vegetable oil (or use lard) in a large saucepan and heat to 340˚F (170˚C), no higher.
- Line a baking sheet with paper towels and set aside.
- Once the oil is heated, gently stretch one of the puffed discs of dough to make a thin and almost translucent center at least 2 1/2 inches (6 centimeters) wide with a thicker at least 1 1/2 inch (4 centimeter) pillowy edge.
- Carefully place the stretched dough in the heated oil and fry until golden, 1-2 minutes. The thin center should puff up.
- Carefully flip the dough over to fry on the other side until golden.
- Transfer to the towel lined baking sheet and repeat with the remaining discs of dough, stretching right before you put them in the oil.
- These Schmalznudeln are best warm sprinkling with a dusting of powdered sugar.
Annie W.
Hello,
Just wanted to pop by and say this was a wonderful post!
I so enjoyed seeing the photos and learning about all the places you visited. I saved your post in my Pinterest travel folder, as well as my doughnut folder, hoping on my next trip to Germany to see my son I can perhaps go check out some of the places you mention.
Thanks for such an excellent guide and can’t wait to taste this German pastry.
Happy baking in 2025!
Tara
Thank you so much Annie for your beautiful comment! This absolutely made my day. Happy Baking!