A recipe for Chäschüechli (Swiss Cheese Tartlets) inspired by our time in Luzern, Switzerland! These little tartlets have a buttery crust filled with melted Alpine cheese and a savory custard.
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Luzern
Luzern (Lucerne) is a charming, midsize city located in Kanton Luzern (Canton of Lucerne) in Central Switzerland.
Resting along the Reuss River and the northwestern edge of Vierwaldstättersee (Lake Lucerne), the city is filled with historical wooden bridges, museums, markets, restaurants, cafés, plenty of shopping, day trip options, and beautiful views of the nearby mountains.
The official language in this part of Switzerland is German with Swiss German (Luzerndeutsch/Lozäärntüütsch) as the predominant spoken language. I got around using somewhat passable Standard German and a few basic Swiss German phrases. Most of the restaurants we visited during our trip had an English menu option or translations.
The weather varied from overcast to heavy rain during our time in Luzern so we cut Mount Pilatus from our itinerary (just means we have to go back someday!), but it is an easy day trip. Other nearby mountain options include Rigi and Titlis.
I used the MeteoSwiss app to keep track of the weather. Before heading to the mountains and purchasing tickets, check the webcam on the official website.
Getting to Luzern from Zürich Airport
After landing in Zürich, we immediately headed to Luzern. There is usually a nonstop train available that goes straight from the Zürich Airport to Luzern Station, but the tracks are currently closed due to construction work until at least the end of the year (2024).
For now, the route does require a relatively easy switch at Zürich Hauptbahnhof before continuing on to Luzern. The overall trip was about 1 hour 10 minutes.
We got the Swiss Travel Pass (the kids were included with the Swiss Family Card) and this made everything so much easier with just hopping on trains and other transportation without having to worry about buying specific tickets.
I also highly recommend downloading the SBB Mobile app (available in English). I used this throughout our trip to plan routes and find the platforms/trains ahead of time.
Chäs Barmettler
After dropping off our luggage at the hotel, my very first stop was Chäs Barmettler at Hertensteinstrasse 2 for Chäschüechli.
Chäs Barmettler is a family-owned shop operating since 1972 and features a variety of cheese, wine, and accompaniments.
Just outside the entrance, they have an oven with Chäschüechli- small pies packed with cheese and piping hot with a golden brown crust across the top. The price has remained 2 CHF each for many years.
I ate the tartlet immediately on one of the nearby benches, but they can also pack up the Chäschüechli for takeaway.
Max Chocolatier
Max Chocolatier is just a couple of buildings away from Chäs Barmettler at Hertensteinstrasse 7 and has a wonderful variety of chocolate and truffles.
This small shop was featuring their Sommerpralinen (Summer Truffle) collection along with handmade bars, ice cream, and other specialties. They also have a boutique in Zürich.
I picked up a box filled with flavors such as Ananas Gelée (Pineapple Jelly), Zitrone und Marzipan (Lemon and Almond Marzipan), Wassermelone (Watermelon), and Erdbeer & Limette (Strawberry and Lime). The kids also enjoyed the Teddy Bear with Hazelnut Filling.
Bäckerei Macchi
Also situated in this area is one of the Bäckerei Macchi locations at Hertensteinstrasse 22 (they have a handful across the city).
This bakery with a history dating back to 1914 has an assortment of sweet/savory pastries, bread, hot lunches, sandwiches, coffee and more.
I picked up the Dinkel Nussschnecke: Dinkel-Hefesüssteig mit traditioneller Nussfüllung (Sweet Spelt Yeast Snail Roll with a Nut Filling), Schoggimaisbrötli (Chocolate Chip Roll- best known and most popular product), and Laugengipfel (Pretzel Crescent Roll).
Löwendenkmal
Just 1/4 mile (350 meters) north of these shops is one of the most notable monuments in Switzerland, the Löwendenkmal (Lion Monument).
This monument is situated in a tranquil English garden and commemorates the soldiers who died on August 10th, 1792 while defending King Louis XVI at Tuileries Palace in Paris. It was designed by Bertel Thorvaldsen, carved by Lukas Ahorn, and unveiled in 1821.
The carving depicts a dying lion resting on the French coat of arms with the Swiss coat of arms against the rock and a broken spear protruding from his back.
Gletschergarten Luzern
From Löwendenkmal, there are stairs leading up to Gletschergarten (Glacier Garden) Luzern at Denkmalstrasse 4.
This museum (included with the Swiss Travel Pass) features the unique historical landscape of the region with glacial potholes created during the last ice age (20,000 years ago, Last Glacial Maximum). The potholes were discovered on November 2nd, 1872 when Josef Wilhelm Amrein-Troller wanted to build a wine cellar in the land.
You can also see fossilized shells and palm fronds from millions of years prior when the area was a subtropical beach.
One of the biggest hits with the kids was the mirror maze. Designed after the Alhambra of Granada, this labyrinth with 51 mirrors was originally built in 1896 for the National Exhibition in Geneva. It was moved to the Gletschergarten in 1899.
Manor Luzern
After our visit to Gletschergarten, we had lunch on the top floor of Manor Luzern at Weggisgasse 5.
Manor is a department store with locations across Switzerland. There are multiple levels filled with jewelry, clothing, toys, home goods, and a sizable kitchen section (lots of fondue pots if you are interested in taking one home).
The cafeteria-style, self-serve restaurant has a variety of options from salads, soups, and snacks to main dishes, desserts, and even a coffee bar.
We ate inside due to the rain, but there is a rooftop terrace with amazing views of the city.
Verkehrshaus der Schweiz
Verkehrshaus der Schweiz (Swiss Museum Of Transport) is what originally brought us to Luzern. This incredible museum at Haldenstrasse 44 is open 365 days a year and packed with all things transportation.
We ended up spending around 6 hours here with a lunch break and some time at the Swiss Chocolate Adventure. I would allow for at least 3 hours to see the highlights. The museum is not fully covered with the Swiss Travel Pass, but there is a notable discount for the day pass if you buy tickets on site.
The museum is made up of an assortment of buildings each focusing on a different theme with an outdoor courtyard in the center. Most of the exhibits have hands-on elements for all ages.
Highlights for us included road transport, navigation and tourism, aviation/space, and the outdoor area.
We ate lunch at the self-service, cafeteria-style Mercato Restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating. Options ranged from sausages and Schnitzel to pasta, pizza, and salad.
I picked the Bratwurst mit Zwiebelsauce (sausage with onion sauce), while Chad and the kids went for pizza and pasta with tomato sauce.
Along with all the transportation exhibits, Verkehrshaus der Schweiz is also home to Lindt’s Swiss Chocolate Adventure (a small ride explaining the history of chocolate in Switzerland and a fun gift shop), Planetarium, Filmtheatre, Red Bull The Edge VR experience, and Hans Erni Museum.
Kapellbrücke
One of the city’s most iconic landmarks is the Kapellbrücke (Chapel Bridge). This 204 meter covered footbridge crosses the Reuss River, connecting Altstadt to Neustadt. It is the oldest wooden-covered bridge in Europe and truss bridge in the world.
It was originally built in 1332/3 as a part of the city’s original fortifications. The ceiling is filled with numerous painted triangles depicting the history of Luzern and Switzerland.
Much of the bridge was destroyed in a devastating fire on August 18th, 1993 and rebuilt in eight months. Unfortunately, only 30 out of the original 157 paintings survived.
The bridge is connected to the 34.5 meter (113 ft) high Wasserturm. This octagonal stone water tower was created around 1290–1300, predating the bridge by 30 years. It has seen many uses from defenses and a prison to local treasury and archive.
Spreuerbrücke
A little west from the Kapellbrücke is the Spreuerbrücke. This footbridge was built in 1406 and remains in its original form.
It also has triangular paintings situated across the ceiling, but instead of the history of the city, these feature Totentanz (Dance of Death). The bridge is home to a small chapel built in the 1500s.
Luzerner Wochenmarkt
Every Tuesday and Saturday, the Luzerner Wochenmarkt takes place on either side of the Kapellbrücke.
During my Saturday visit, the walkways were lined with dozens of booths featuring everything from baked goods and cheese to pasta, flowers, fruits, vegetables, and more.
Cafe Tacuba Neustadt
I started my last day in Luzern with an Espresso Macchiato and Rhabarber Streuselkuchen (Rhubarb Streusel Cake) from Cafe Tacuba Neustadt at Hirschmattstrasse 36.
Café Tacuba Neustadt is a specialty coffee shop with coffee, other drinks, treats, and brunch items in a comforting space. Their original location is at Eichwaldstrasse 10.
Markthalle Luzern
Markthalle Luzern is situated in the spacious shopping area under the train station. They are open every day with a variety of products highlighting local vendors in the region.
This is where I picked up the bag of Edelweiss pasta I used as the base for my Honey Mustard Pasta Salad recipe.
Brezelkönig
We first came across Brezelkönig while in the Luzern train station (and subsequently in every train station for the rest of our trip) and it was perfect for a quick snack.
The small stand is right at the main entrance with a menu featuring sweet and savory pretzels, covered pretzels, and pretzel sandwiches. I especially liked the Brezel Raclette Chorizo (pretzel with melted cheese and filled with thin chorizo slices).
Bellini Locanda Ticinese
For our last night in Luzern, we had dinner at Bellini Locanda Ticinese located on the ground floor of the Continental Park Hotel.
Bellini Locanda Ticinese focuses on the food and wine of Ticino (the Italian speaking region in Southern Switzerland). We unfortunately could not make it to Ticino this trip, so I was excited to at least try some of the local dishes while in Luzern! We ordered the following:
- Lasagne verd <<Bellini>>- Spinat-Pastablätter mit Bolognese und Bechamelsauce, gratiniert mit Grana Padano (Spinach pasta sheets with bolognese, bechamel, and Grana Padano).
- Malfatti al bütér cun salvia e pignö (my absolute favorite)- Tessiner Spinat-Ricotta-Gnocchi und Luganighetta an brauner Salbeibutter und mit gerösteten Pinienkernen (Spinach Ricotta Gnocchi with sausage, brown sage butter, and roasted pine nuts).
- Amuse Bouche- I don’t completely remember what this was but the flavors were incredible- I think carrot soup alongside cured meats and chopped vegetables.
- Giovanninis- Nudeln mit Tomatensauce für Kinder- a hit with both kids (neither waited for me to take a photo).
- Gelat- Vanille, Stracciatella, Fior di Latte Gelato.
- Cheesecake cun salsa ai fambros- Hausgemachter Cheesecake mit Himbeersauce auf gebackenem Lotuskrokantboden (House-made Cheesecake with Raspberry Sauce and Baked Lotus Krokant Waffle Cookie Crust).
- White Merlot und Campari Milano (Campari, Cranberry, Charme, Peppermint).
Cascada Boutique Hotel
We stayed at Cascada Boutique Hotel in Neustadt. I was looking for a hotel within walking distance to the train station and equipped with air conditioning. Cascada Hotel achieved and exceeded both of these requirements.
It was an easy 1/3 mile (500 meter) walk from the train station on even pavement (I love cobblestone, but not with suitcases). If you aren’t up for walking, there is also a bus stop around the corner from the entrance and only two stops from the station.
We didn’t use it since we had the Swiss Travel Pass, but staying in a hotel within Luzern includes a Visitor Card for free bus and train use within the city (zone 10) and multiple local discounts.
We booked the Small Family Room. It was spacious for our family of four with three beds, a desk, television, bathroom (plenty of counter space for our toiletries), coffee machine, and a refrigerator with complimentary drinks.
I especially loved the theming. Each room is designed after a specific Swiss waterfall. Ours highlighted Trümmelbachfälle from the Lauterbrunnen Valley in the Berner Oberland!
Our reservation came with breakfast each morning. There was an abundant spread of juice, coffee, tea, water, local cheese, Spanish cured meats, fruit, Müesli, bread (Zopf on Sunday!), and even Spanish tortillas and churros with warm chocolate sauce.
Bolero Restaurante
For our first night, we made reservations at the hotel’s onsite Spanish-themed Bolero Restaurante.
This was perfect since apparently both kids decided to watch movies and not sleep during the 9 hour overnight flight and we were all a bit tired by the end of the day.
The entire meal was incredible and the kids set menu comes with an amazing experience of assembling your own ice cream in the kitchen! It also included a soft drink (Claire went with Rivella), chicken nuggets, and fries.
We also ordered the Kids Penne mit Tomatensauce; Hausgemachte Ravioli mit Kräuter-Frischkäse-Pilzfüllung (housemade ravioli with herb cheese mushroom filling); DIY Paella with fideuà, saffron, vegetables, chicken wings, chorizo, rabbit, and speck; an Espresso Martini; and a Mai Tai.
Overall, we had such an amazing time in Luzern and hopefully will get to visit again someday.
Chäschüechli (Swiss Cheese Tartlets)
There were so many fantastic treats we enjoyed while in Luzern, but I was inspired to make Chäschüechli (Chäs-Chüechli, Käseküchlein, Swiss Cheese Tartlets) first since it was the very first thing I tried after arriving in Switzerland.
These delicious little quiche-like tartlets are perfect as a snack or even a larger meal alongside a salad.
After forming the homemade crust and lining individual muffin tins, each tartlet is filled with shredded alpine cheese and a milk/egg mixture.
The pan is immediately transferred to the 400˚F (200˚C) oven and baked until the top is puffed and golden.
Allow to cool in the pan for a couple of minutes before removing the Chäschüechli from the tins and serving warm.
Making the Tartlet Crust
I prefer a homemade buttery crust as the base for the Chäschüechli. If you are short on time, you can swap for a store-bought pie crust or defrosted puff pastry.
Do not pack in the flour when measuring or you may end up with too much. To measure flour, gently spoon it into the measuring cup and level with a knife without pressing down. The most accurate way to measure is by weight.
To help create the flaky texture for the pastry base, I generally use a dough blender to cut in the chilled, diced butter. You can also use two forks or the tips of your fingers. Just try to work as quickly as possible to keep the butter from melting.
Only add enough water to bring the dough together. You may not need the full 1/3 cup (80 millimeters) or you may need a little more depending on how you measured the flour. If the dough is still too crumbly the come together, slowly add a little more water.
After forming the pastry dough, allow it to rest in the refrigerator for 30 minutes to 1 hour. The dough is delicate and this will make it easier to roll and handle. If the dough is still too warm, place back in the refrigerator for a few more minutes.
Roll the dough into a thin sheet about 1/8 inch (3 millimeters) thick. Use a round 3 1/2 inch (9 centimeter) cutter to cut out circles of dough. The Chäschüechli I tried across Switzerland mostly had scalloped edges, so I used a scalloped cutter.
A Few Chäschüechli Tips
For the cheese, I went with a combination of freshly shredded Gruyère and Emmentaler. I have also seen Vacherin, Appenzeller, or other types depending on the region.
Chop or tear the shredded cheese if it is too long to easily fit in the tins.
Divide the milk mixture evenly among the tartlets. Take care to not overfill. Bake immediately after assembling. Otherwise, the crust will start to absorb the liquid.
These Chäschüechli are best warm from the oven. Store leftovers in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to 3 days. Reheat for a few seconds in the microwave or about 5 minutes in a 350˚F (180˚C) oven.
Chäschüechli (Swiss Cheese Tartlets) Recipe
Adapted from Helvetic Kitchen
Chäschüechli (Swiss Cheese Tartlets)
Ingredients
Crust:
- 1 1/2 cups (190 grams) all-purpose flour
- 3/4 teaspoon salt
- 6 tablespoons (85 grams) unsalted butter chilled and diced, plus more for greasing
- 1/3 cup (80 milliliters) cold water
Filling:
- 1/3 cup (80 milliliters) milk
- 1/3 cup (80 milliliters) heavy cream
- 2 large eggs
- 1/4 teaspoon salt
- Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
- Pinch freshly ground black pepper
- 2 ounces (57 grams) Gruyère cheese shredded
- 2 ounces (57 grams) Emmentaler cheese shredded
- 1/2 tablespoon all-purpose flour
Instructions
To make the crust:
- In a large bowl, combine the flour and salt.
- Quickly cut in the cold butter using a dough blender, two forks, or your fingers until blended and no pieces are larger than a pea and the dough has a crumbly texture.
- Slowly add the cold water to form a soft and smooth dough.
- Form the dough into a disc, wrap in plastic, and refrigerate until chilled, 30 minutes to 1 hour or up to two days.
To make the filling and assemble:
- Grease 12 standard muffin tins with butter.
- Preheat oven to 400˚F (200˚C).
- In a medium bowl, whisk together the milk, cream, eggs, salt, nutmeg, and pepper until smooth.
- In another bowl, toss together the shredded Gruyère, Emmentaler, and 1/2 tablespoon flour.
- On a lightly floured surface, roll the chilled dough into a large sheet about 1/8 inch (3 millimeters) thick.
- Use a 3 1/2 inch (9 centimeter) round cutter (scalloped if available) to cut out as many circles as possible.
- Bring together the scraps of dough. Re-roll and cut to make 12 circles in total.
- Place each circle in a greased muffin tin, gently pressing down across the edges and sides to keep air bubbles from forming.
- Sprinkle some of the shredded cheese (about 1 tablespoon) across the bottom of each tartlet.
- Gently pour the milk mixture over the cheese to fill each tartlet.
- Immediately transfer the pan to the preheated oven and bake until the tops are puffed and golden, about 25-35 minutes.
- Allow to cool briefly before removing the tartlets from the muffin tins.
- These Chäschüechli are best served warm.
Melissa
I love reading about your travels! These Swiss cheese tartlets look so tasty.
Angela
I can see why you were inspired to make these tarts. They look and sound delicious. Loved reading about your vacation and seeing all the food you tried as well.