A recipe for Gipfeli (Swiss Crescent-Shaped Pastries) inspired by our time in the Bernese Oberland, Switzerland! These light and flaky pastries are perfect for pairing with butter and jam.
We recently spent two wonderful weeks in Switzerland and I will be sharing our experiences in a series of blog posts.
Today, I am covering our time in the Berner Oberland along with a recipe for Gipfeli (Swiss Crescent-Shaped Pastries).
Check out my previous Switzerland posts:
Bernese Oberland
While in Bern, we took a day trip to the Bernese Oberland!
The Bernese Oberland (Berner Oberland, Bernese Highlands) region is located in the southeastern part of the Canton of Bern along the Bernese Alps (Berner Alpen). This gorgeous area is filled with picturesque towns, snow-capped mountains, castles, hiking trails, caves, and hundreds of lakes.
We only had a short amount of time here with brief stops in Thun, the St. Beatus Caves, and a boat ride across the Brienzersee from Interlaken to Brienz. I would love to visit again someday to see more of the towns and food. It was definitely one of the highlights of our trip.
Getting to the Berner Oberland
From Bern, it is an easy 15-20 minute train ride to Thun or 1 hour to Interlaken Ost. The trip to Thun is closer to 1 1/2 hours from Zürich and a little over 2 hours from Geneva.
Check for weather and current closures before planning your day, even up to a few hours prior. I used the MeteoSwiss app to keep track of the weather.
During the writing of this post, the train station and tracks in Brienz were closed following heavy rains and a landslide. The Luzern-Interlaken Express is currently rerouted with a bus in Meiringen (and limited availability), but usually the trip takes around 2 hours.
I highly recommend downloading the SBB Mobile app (available in English). I used this throughout our trip to plan routes and find the platforms/trains ahead of time. They will also note closures and reroutes if necessary.
We ordered the Swiss Travel Pass (the kids were included with the Swiss Family Card) online and this made everything so much easier with just hopping on trains and other transportation without having to worry about buying specific tickets.
All of the transportation in this post (train, boat, and bus) were included with the pass.
Lake Brienz
We started our day with a boat ride across the Brienzersee (Lake Brienz). Lake Brienz is a 8.7 mile (14 kilometer) long beautiful turquoise lake with a maximum depth of 853 feet (260 meters).
Its striking turquoise color is due to the fine, slow-to-sink glacial sediment washed into the lake from the Aare and Lütschine rivers. This color is at its most brilliant during the spring, fall, and on sunny days.
From Bern, we took the one hour train to Interlaken Ost, then followed the well-marked, very short path to the dock.
At the time of this post, the first boat leaves Interlaken Ost at 9:07 with options every 1-2 hours until the last boat at 16:07. There is a reduced schedule in spring and autumn and a complete closure during the winter months (but they do still operate on Lake Thun year-round).
To look up the schedule on the SBB Mobile app, type Interlaken Ost (See) as the starting point and Brienz (See) as the destination or switch around if you are going the opposite way. Under the advanced search option, limit the means of transportation to ship.
Our 9:07 boat ride lasted about 1 hour 15 minutes criss-crossing the lake to the following towns/stops: Bönigen, Ringgenberg, Niederried, Iseltwald, Giessbach, and finally Brienz before heading back towards Interlaken.
Boats at other times may have different stops or they may vary based on weather, so check ahead if you are looking for a specific town.
While I was outside taking photos, the family spent some time inside the galley and enjoyed breakfast. Offerings included bread, Gipfeli with butter and jam, ham, cheese, orange juice, coffee, tea, hot chocolate, and Rivella.
Of course no one took photos of the Gipfeli, but these flaky, crescent-shaped pastries were a perfect start to the day and became the inspiration for today’s recipe.
Iseltwald
Claire had two goals during our trip to Switzerland- eat chocolate and see the pier featured in her favorite K-Drama, Crash Landing on You. The boat ride took us right by this pier in Iseltwald, a small village situated on the southern shore of Lake Brienz.
Most of the passengers on the boat got off at this stop. We opted to stay on the boat and just take photos as we passed by.
If you do get off on the Iseltwald stop, please be respectful of private property. Due to its recent popularity, there is now a turnstile at the pier to charge for the management and upkeep.
Giessbach
After Iseltwald, the boat stopped briefly at Giessbach.
This stop is home to Giessbachfälle (Giessbach Falls) and Grandhotel Giessbach (also featured in Crash Landing on You as Ri Jeong-Hyeok’s music school), both of which are connected to the dock by Giessbachbahn (one of the oldest funiculars in the world).
Brienz
We got off the boat at Brienz to hop on the train back to Interlaken Ost.
Situated on the northeastern end of Brienzersee, Brienz is home to the Schweizer Holzbildhauerei Museum (Swiss Woodcarving Museum), Brienz Rothorn Railway, and Brunngasse (one of the most beautiful streets in Europe with its wooden chalets). Ballenberg (Switzerland’s only open-air museum) is also nearby.
St. Beatus-Höhlen
From Interlaken Ost, we took Bus 21 to the Beatushöhlen stop (about 25 minutes) to visit the St. Beatus-Höhlen (St. Beatus Caves).
For those riding the boat on Lake Thun, you can also arrive via the Beatushöhlen-Sundlauenen ferry terminal.
The St. Beatus Caves are a unique limestone cave system filled with grottos, gorges, subterranean waterfalls, chambers, stalagmites, and stalactites.
According to legend, the caves are named after the Christian missionary, Beatus (born around 112 A.D. in Scotland).
He supposedly climbed into the cave and defeated the mythical, fire-breathing dragon to bring peace to the surrounding village.
The walk up to the entrance is gorgeous with a paved path winding back and forth over a cascading waterfall, plus sweeping views of Thunersee (Lake Thun) and the surrounding mountains.
It takes around 10-15 minutes to walk up to the top (or closer to 20-25 if you stop for photos along the way).
As a note, the outside path and interior of the caves are not barrier-free. Wheelchairs and strollers are not allowed inside. The path is steep at times with some narrow areas and there are a total of 297 (often damp and occasionally steep) stairs within the cave.
The caves, museum, and shop are open daily during the summer season (end of March-early November), but only on Saturdays and Sundays during the winter months (November-March). Check the official hours before visiting.
Tickets are not included with the Swiss Travel Pass, but there is a discounted family ticket option for parents/grandparents (maximum of 2 adults) and children/grandchildren 6-16.
Dogs are allowed in the cave, but require a ticket as well.
So far, about 14 kilometers (8.5 miles) have been mapped within the caves, making this cave system one of the 10 largest in Switzerland. It is also one of the few open to the public with a well-marked, 1 kilometer (0.6 mile) path.
Walking to the end of the path and back on a self-guided tour takes about 1 hour. Signs along the way detail the notable highlights in German and English. We didn’t use it, but there is also a Saint Beatus app with more information. Guided tours are often available, as well.
Make sure to wear good walking shoes and bring along a light jacket. Due to the 95% humidity and rushing water, the path and steps are often wet. The temperature inside is a consistent 8-10˚C (46-50˚F).
Along with touring the caves, there is a restaurant, playground, picnic area, small museum, and gift shop onsite.
Entrance to the museum is included with the ticket or can be purchased separately. It covers the geology of the cave system, prehistoric discoveries, and other important facts with interactive activities and stories.
The gift shop has cave and dragon-themed souvenirs. We picked up a bag of local dragon-shaped dried pasta.
The kids especially loved the dragon-themed playground to the right of the restaurant and cave entrance. There are also public restrooms nearby.
We opted for a light lunch at the quick-service Restaurant Stein & Sein Takeaway. They have a handful of outdoor tables next to the cave exit with some incredible views of the lake below.
It was perfect for a short break. We ordered the Aperol Spritz, Pouletbrust mit Kräuterbutter und Salat (Chicken with Herb butter and Salad), Swiss Cheese Dog (Ciabatta, Raclette Cheese, Pickle, and Pearl Onions), and Chicken Nuggets with Fries.
There is also a sit-down dining option with reservations available through their website.
Between the walk up and down, lunch, some time on the playground, and actually touring the caves, we spent around 4 hours here. Allow for at least 2 if moving quickly.
Thun
Our original plan after visiting the caves was to take the bus back to Thun (Bus 21, about 35-40 minutes) and walk up to Schloss Thun.
We ended up running out of time. Our phones also completely stopped working while we were on the bus, so we called it a day and took the train to Bern after arriving in Thun.
Once we got back to the hotel, we figured out that it wasn’t just our phones, but the international service outage affecting much of Europe that day.
Luckily, Thun is only a short 15-20 minute train ride from Bern. We were able to fit in a couple of hours the following day to finally see Schloss Thun (Thun Castle).
While we only had time for the castle, Thun is a wonderful option for a full day trip from Bern or other nearby areas.
This historical town is located along the Aare River on the northwestern end of Thunersee (Lake Thun) with pedestrian-friendly walkways, picturesque views, covered wooden bridges, shopping, cafés, restaurants, and more.
Schloss Thun
After arriving at Bahnhof Thun, we walked about 800 meters (0.5 mile)/15 minutes through the old city and up a couple of sets of stairs to the castle. There is also public parking at City Ost Schlossberg with an elevator up to the ground level of the castle.
Built during the end of the 12th century at the direction of the Dukes of Zähringen, Schloss Thun (Thun Castle) has served as a domicile of Thun nobility, prison, regional court, administrative center, and a museum since 1888. The prison and museum were even overlapping at one point with the warden also responsible for selling tickets and guarding the museum.
Hours vary based on the season. From February-October, the castle is open daily (though only in the afternoon Feb-Mar). From November-January, it is open on Sundays with special daily hours around Christmas and New Year’s.
There are also special and private events throughout the year. Check the calendar and current hours before visiting.
Some exhibits and restrooms are accessible on the ground floor, but the remaining levels and towers can only be reached via stairs.
Admission is included with the Swiss Travel Pass.
The museum spans across all five floors of the castle with stunning panoramic views from the four towers.
Each floor features a mixture of history and local art on display. A few highlights include the Rittersaal (Grand Hall) on the third floor (ceremonial hall from the Late Middle Ages), treasures from Thun Town Hall, and the Bernese hipped roof (added in the 1430s).
Stadtkirche Thun is just down the path about 150 meters (492 feet) from Schloss Thun. It is the main Reformed church for the city.
The octagonal tower dates back to around 1330 and the paintings were added around the arches in 1430.
From Stadtkirche Thun, it is a 480 meter (0.3 mile) downhill walk back to the train station with a few restaurants, cafés, and grocery stores along the way if needed.
Gipfeli (Swiss Crescent-Shaped Pastries)
To pair with this post, I was inspired to make Gipfeli (Swiss Crescent-Shaped Pastries) after the family enjoyed them on the boat ride across Brienzersee!
Similar in style to the French Croissant and Italian Cornetto, these crescent-shaped pastries have a more crisp exterior with less butter than the French version and less sugar than the Italian.
They are especially delicious warm from the oven paired with butter and jam.
Shaping the Gipfeli
There are endless varieties of Gipfeli with both sweet and savory fillings, but I am sharing the basic Buter-Gipfeli today. Other favorite versions include Nussgipfel (hazelnut or other nut filling), Schoggi-Gipfeli (chocolate filling and often the ends dipped in chocolate as well), and Laugengipfel (pretzel-style).
These Butter-Gipfeli come together with yeast-based, laminated dough.
After bringing together the soft dough and resting at room temperature until doubled, roll into a thin sheet, top with a thin layer of cold butter, fold over to seal, and refrigerate for about 30 minutes.
Roll into a sheet again before folding 1/3rd of the dough inward towards the center similar to a letter followed by the other side to create three layers. Cover in plastic and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Repeat this process for a total of three times to create multiple layers of butter.
After forming the laminated dough, divide in half and place one half back in the refrigerator. Roll the remaining half on a floured work surface into a long rectangle about 18 x 6 inches (46 x 15 centimeters).
Cut the dough into triangles with a 5 inch (13 centimeter) base. There should be about 6 in all. Make a small perpendicular 1 inch (2.5 centimeter) cut in the center of each base (this will help keep the dough from puffing too much in the center and assist in stretching the ends into a crescent shape).
Roll the triangle up, stretching as needed, and slightly turn the ends inward to form a crescent. Place on a baking sheet and repeat with remaining triangles, then remaining dough to make around 12 Gipfeli total.
After a final 1 hour rest at room temperature, brush the tops with an egg wash and bake the Gipfeli for 5 minutes in a 400˚F (200˚C) oven, then drop the temperature down to 375˚F (190˚C) for the last 10-12 minutes until puffed and golden.
A Few Gipfeli Tips
Do not pack in the flour when measuring or you may end up with too much. To measure flour, gently spoon it into the measuring cup and level with a knife without pressing down. The most accurate way to measure is by weight.
When adding the yeast to the milk, make sure the milk isn’t too hot or it will damage the yeast. The temperature should be about 105˚F (40˚C)- just warm enough to activate. Allow to rest at room temperature until frothy, about 10 minutes.
If the dough is too crumbly and just won’t come together after mixing everything together thoroughly, add some more milk a splash at a time. Give it some time to blend fully with the flour before adding more.
Add just enough flour to create a smooth and workable dough. Too much flour or overworking will cause the layers to become dense.
For best results, use a European-style butter with at least 82 percent butterfat.
Gipfeli (Swiss Crescent-Shaped Pastries) Recipe
Adapted from Swiss Milk
Gipfeli (Swiss Crescent-Shaped Pastries)
Ingredients
- 2 1/4 teaspoons (7 grams) active dry yeast
- 1 1/3 cups (315 milliliters) lukewarm milk 105-115˚F, 40-46˚C
- 4 cups (500 grams) all-purpose flour
- 3 tablespoons (38 grams) granulated sugar
- 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
- 1 large egg
For Assembly:
- 1 cup (226 grams) unsalted butter chilled
- 1 egg yolk
- 1 tablespoon (15 milliliters) milk
Instructions
- In a small bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the lukewarm milk. Stir briefly to combine and allow to sit until frothy, about 10 minutes.
- In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook or a large bowl, combine the flour, sugar, and salt.
- Slowly pour the frothy yeast with the milk into the flour mixture, then the egg until a soft dough comes together.
- If still too crumbly, slowly add a little more milk. If too sticky to handle, add a little more flour.
- On a lightly floured surface, knead the dough until smooth and elastic. Transfer to a large bowl, cover, and rest at room temperature until doubled in size, about 1 1/2 hours.
- During the last 30 minutes of rest, cut the butter into 1/2 inch (1.25 centimeter) thick slices and arrange over a large piece of parchment in an 8×8 inch (20 x 20 centimeter) square.
- Cover with another piece of parchment and hit the butter evenly with a rolling pin to bring the edges together, then roll into a 9×9 inch (23 x 23 centimeter) square.
- Refrigerate the square of butter for 10 minutes, only enough to make it cool again but not completely solid. It should still be a little pliable without snapping.
- On a lightly floured surface, roll the rested dough into a large rectangle about 18 x 10 inches (46 x 25 centimeters).
- Place the prepared sheet of butter over 1/2 of the dough, keeping the edges clear.
- Fold the dough over in half to cover the sheet of butter, pinching together the edges to seal. Wrap the dough in plastic and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
- Being careful to not crack the dough and expose the butter, roll the dough on a lightly floured surface into a rectangle again about 16 x 10 inches (41 x 25 centimeters).
- Fold 1/3rd of the dough inward towards the center followed by the other side to create three layers. Cover in plastic and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
- Roll the dough out again and fold inwards again, then refrigerate another 30 minutes. Repeat the process one more time for a total of three times in all. Refrigerate for another 30 minutes after the final folding.
To assemble the Gipfeli:
- Line two rimmed baking sheets with parchment or lightly grease.
- Using a sharp knife, cut the dough in half. Cover one half in plastic and place back in the refrigerator until you are ready to use it.
- For the remaining half, roll on a lightly floured surface into a long rectangle about 18 x 6 inches (46 x 15 centimeters).
- Cut the dough into triangles with a 5 inch (13 centimeter) base. There should be about 6 in all.
- Make a small perpendicular 1 inch (2.5 centimeter) cut in the center of each base (this will help keep the dough from puffing too much in the center and assist in stretching the ends into a crescent shape).
- Roll the triangle up, base to corner, stretching as needed, and slightly turn the ends inward to form a crescent. Lightly press down on the end to seal into the dough.
- Place on the prepared baking sheet and repeat with remaining triangles placing them 2 inches (5 centimeters) apart, then remaining dough to make around 12 Gipfeli total.
- Cover the baking sheets lightly with towels and allow to rest at room temperature for 1 hour, until puffed.
- Preheat oven to 400˚F (200˚C).
- In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolk and 1 tablespoon (15 milliliters) milk to make the egg wash.
- Brush the tops of the rested Gipfeli with the egg wash and bake for 5 minutes. Decrease temperature to 375˚F (190˚C) and continue to bake until puffed and golden brown, another 10-12 minutes.
- These Gipfeli are best served warm from the oven and within a few of hours of baking with butter and jam.
Stella-Maria Thomas
Well, that was a blast from the past. I spent the Summer of 1980 working in a hotel in Murren and on my one day a week off went out to see as much of the surrounding area as I could. It’s lovely to see some of those places again.