Pan y Dulce: The Latin American Baking Book (Pastries, Desserts, Rustic Breads, Savory Baking, and More), written by Bryan Ford, features an absolutely incredible and detailed collection of over 150 breads and pastries from thirty-three countries across Latin America. A few highlights include Pirujos from Guatemala, Marraquetas from Chile, Bizcocho de Naranja from Colombia, Chocolate Churros from Oaxaca, and Sopa Paraguaya. I will also be sharing his recipe for Pebete following the review.
Disclosure: I received this book from Voracious in exchange for my honest review. All opinions and statements are my own.
Bryan Ford
Bryan Ford is a professional baker, cookbook author, television host, and creator of the blog, Artisan Bryan.
His website won the 2019 Saveur magazine award for Best Baking and Sweets Blog. He is a recipe consultant for bakeries in the United States and Central America, has been a judge on Netflix’s Blue Ribbon Baking Championship, host of Magnolia Network’s Baked in Tradition and The Artisan’s Kitchen, and guest starred on Waffles + Mochi. He also co-created The Flaky Biscuit Podcast with his wife, Bridget Kenna.
This is his second cookbook. His first cookbook, New World Sourdough, was released in 2020.
Pan y Dulce
Bryan begins Pan y Dulce with an introduction and a few notes on how to use the book.
It is divided into two parts: Baker’s Guide and Recipes. For the recipes, chapters are further divided according to the type of dough: Yeasted and Hybrid Doughs, Sourdough (Rustic, Savory, and Sweet), Desserts and Pastries, and Savory and Gluten-Free. The contents page has a list of the included chapters and recipes with page numbers for easy reference.
I especially love the guides and focus on the notable ingredients and techniques. Bryan also covers weight conversions, helpful tools, and has even put together charts for switching between yeast (instant, active, or fresh) and sourdough based on personal preferences.
Both novice and advanced bakers will appreciate the tips for working with different types of yeast and preferments, notes on using a machine or mixing by hand, and how climate and altitude may affect the dough.
Between the recipes, there are additional notes on the history and influences behind the breadmaking with closer looks at the disputed creation of the Cuban sandwich, the evolution of masa, the origin of the Alfajor, and more.
The food photography is provided by Brittany Conerly with location photography by Lizzie Ford-Madrid. Every recipe is paired with at least one half to full page photo of the finished dish. In the techniques section, there are a few step-by-step photos to demonstrate mixing and folding dough.
Titles are written in Spanish or English. Measurements are listed in Metric and US Customary. Each recipe includes a headnote with background information, personal stories, yield, ingredient notes, and helpful tips.
Pebete
To pair with this review, I made Bryan’s recipe for the Pebete! Translating to “little kid,” these soft rolls from Argentina and Uruguay are a childhood favorite (and definitely were with my kids).
In this recipe, fresh yeast is combined with all-purpose flour, water, sugar, and eggs to form a smooth, creamy dough. After a four hour rest to ferment, the dough is divided and arranged into small ovals or logs on prepared baking sheets.
They need to rest again for a couple more hours before brushing with an egg wash and baking until puffed with a dark brown shine over the top. The result is a beautiful soft and silky crumb with a thin crust.
These Pebetes were absolutely irresistible warm from the oven, but they are also the perfect base for sandwiches- particularly Pebete de Jamón y Queso. We filled ours with tomato slices, ham, cheese, and mayonnaise.
A Few Pebete Tips
Bryan has included the measurements in cups in case you do not have a scale, but measuring by weight is highly recommended for the best accuracy.
Fresh yeast is also highly recommended if you are able to find it. If unavailable, swap for 1 3/4 teaspoons active dry yeast or 1 1/2 teaspoons instant yeast. For active dry yeast, you need to activate it in lukewarm water for about 10 minutes at room temperature before using.
Use two half sheet pans (18 x 3 x 1 inch, 48 x 8 x 2.5 centimeter) to make the full 24 Pebete recipe.
This recipe can easily be cut in half to make a smaller batch of 12 Pebetes.
More Baking
I also made Pan Sarnita, Suspiros, Semita de Piña, and Cuñapés.
This was my first time trying Pan Sarnita! Bryan’s version of this incredible bread from Bolivia has a sourdough preferment base with a mixture of bread and whole wheat flour. It created a soft and fluffy base perfectly contrasting the crumbled queso fresco topping.
Suspiros are a meringue dessert with egg whites and sugar in the base. Variations can be found across Latin America with different additions and serving options. In Bryan’s recipe, the beaten egg whites are lightly flavored with lime juice before arranging dollops on a pan and slowly baking until set.
While reviewing New World Sourdough, I made Bryan’s Honduran Semitas de Yema. There are also a few semita and concha variations in this book! In El Salvador, the Semita de Piña has a shortbread-style dough covering a whole pan with a thin layer of pineapple jam through the middle and a lattice pattern over the top.
The recipe for Cuñapés can be found in the Savory and Gluten-Free chapter. In Ecuador, cheese bread is known as Pan de Yuca. In Brazil, they have Pão de Queijo. You can find Chipas in Paraguay and Argentina. In Bolivia, there are these Cuñapés! Tapioca flour is combined with milk, butter, and crumbled cheese before forming individual rounds and baking until puffed and golden. We loved these so so much.
Pan y Dulce is an amazing pick for those interested in baking and the cuisines across Latin America. Recipes range from easy cookies and cheese breads to the beautifully textured sourdough and crusty breads that require hours/days to develop. There are even a few seasonal and holiday-related bakes for throughout the year. The leavened breads use either yeast, sourdough, or a combination.
Many of the ingredients can be found in larger American grocery stores. A few items may require further searching such as amaranth flour, quesillo, panela, dried arbol/guajillo chilies, blue masa, masa harina, guava paste, banana leaves, piloncillo, mantequilla rala, and masarepa. Substitutions are provided when possible.
Pebete Recipe
Excerpt from Pan y Dulce
Pebete
Ingredients
- 1000 grams (8 cups) all-purpose flour
- 600 grams (2 1/2 cups + 1 tablespoon) water divided
- 100 grams (1/2 cup) granulated sugar
- 12 grams (1 1/2 tablespoons) fresh yeast
- 3 large eggs divided
- 200 grams (14 tablespoons) unsalted butter softened
- 8 grams (2 1/2 teaspoons) kosher salt plus a pinch for the egg wash
- 2 grams (1/2 teaspoon) vanilla extract
Instructions
- In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, add the all-purpose flour, water (except for 80 grams or 1/3 cup), sugar, fresh yeast, and 2 of the eggs.
- Mix on low speed until a rough dough forms.
- Slowly add the remaining water and switch to medium speed while doing so.
- The dough will come apart but let it keep mixing until it comes back together with the water, about 3 minutes.
- Once the water is incorporated, add the butter 50 grams (3 1/2 tablespoons) at a time and switch to high speed. Make sure the butter is incorporated before adding more. With the last bit of butter, add the salt. Let the mixer continue on high speed for 4 to 5 minutes until you get a smooth, creamy dough.
- Transfer to a clean, buttered bowl, cover and let ferment for 4 hours.
- After the initial fermentation, dump the dough onto a floured work surface and divide it into twenty-four 80-gram pieces (about the size of clementines).
- Shape into balls and then use the palms of your hands to roll into tight logs, about 3 inches (8 centimeters) long.
- Place the rolls on parchment-lined sheet pans, 3 by 4, cover with a plastic bag or a large damp cloth, and proof for 2 hours.
- Combine the remaining egg with a pinch of salt and whisk rigorously until homogenous.
- Brush each pebete with the egg wash and bake for 25 minutes at 375˚F (190˚C). They should have a nice, dark brown shine to them when they are done.
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