The Ramadan Kitchen: Nourishing Recipes from Fast to Feast, written by Ilhan Mohamed Abdi, features a beautiful collection of 80 recipes with flavors from Somalia, Egypt, the Middle East, and beyond. A few highlights include Rolex (Rolled Omelet with Flatbread), Mini Chicken Patties, Bariis Somali (Aromatic Somali Rice), Timir Cake (Spiced Date Cake with Caramel Sauce), and Khaliat Nahal (Honeycomb Bread). I will also be sharing her recipe for Bur (Cardamom-Spiced Beignets) following the review.
Disclosure: I received a copy of this book from Interlink Books in exchange for my honest review. All comments and opinions are my own.
Ilhan Mohamed Abdi
Ilhan Mohamed Abdi left her corporate job to start cooking the meals of her childhood with adaptations for the modern cook.
She is of Somali heritage and is currently based in London with her family. This is her debut cookbook.
The Ramadan Kitchen
Ilhan begins The Ramadan Kitchen with an introduction covering the significance of Ramadan and Eid al-Fitr, plus her own family history with stories and how those memories have shaped the recipes within this book.
She states, “while many of these dishes are often made during Ramadan and Eid, they are not limited to those occasions. They are meals that can live in your kitchen year-round. Familiar enough to return to often, and flexible enough to suit whatever season you are in.”
Chapters are divided according to the following: Suhoor, Iftar, Mains, Breads, Spices & Chutneys, Dessert, Drinks, and Eid. For those unfamiliar with Ramadan, each chapter has an overview with traditions and notes on the included recipes.
The photography is provided by Haarala Hamilton. Most of the recipes are paired with a beautifully-styled, full page photo of the finished dish. There are also a few step-by-step photos demonstrating specific techniques such as rolling Kimis (Sabaayad, Flaky Flatbread) and folding Sambuus (Samosas).
Measurements are listed in US Customary and Metric. Titles are written in the original language and English. Each recipe has a headnote with background information, personal memories, yield, helpful tips, and serving ideas.
Bur (Cardamom-Spiced Beignets)
To pair with this review, I made Ilhan’s recipe for Bur (Somali Cardamom-Spiced Beignets)!
Similar in style to Mandazi, this yeast based dough is cut into individual triangles (or other shapes) and fried on each side until puffed and golden with a light, hollow center.
They are delicious on their own or (definitely as my kids preferred) covered with a dusting of powdered sugar.
Forming the Dough
Do not pack in the flour when measuring or you may end up with too much. To measure flour, gently spoon it into the measuring cup and level with a knife without pressing down. The most accurate way to measure is by weight.
Green Cardamom is a highly aromatic, warm citrus-like spice. It is most fragrant and flavorful when you open up whole pods and freshly grind the seeds. If using already ground cardamom, you may need to bump the amount a little more.
If the dough is too crumbly and just won’t come together after mixing everything thoroughly, add some more milk a splash at a time.
Use a sharp knife to cut the dough. Otherwise it may cause the dough to stick along the edges and not rise as well. I cut the dough into individual triangles. Ilhan mentions they can also be shaped into diamonds or circles.
Keep the temperature of the oil no higher than 350˚F (180˚C) and adjust as needed. Too low and the Bur won’t fry and will just soak in the oil. Too high and they will become too dark before the center has had a chance to cook.
Don’t forget to spoon the hot oil over the tops of the dough pieces as they fry. This will help them puff up further and create a pocket of air in the center- perfect for stuffing with dates.
More Dishes
I also made Umm Ali (Croissant Bread Pudding), Bisteeki (Thinly Sliced Spiced Steak), Baasto Isku Karis (One-Pot Lamb Pasta), and Malawax (Sweet Crepes).
Ilhan’s recipe for Umm Ali (Croissant Bread Pudding) was inspired by her mother and her Egyptian heritage. In this version, leftover croissants are torn into small pieces and baked in a decadent mixture of milk, heavy cream, condensed milk, and cardamom. It is topped with even more thickened cream, coconut, almonds, pistachios, and condensed milk to finish.
The recipe for Bisteeki (Buskeeti, Thinly Sliced Spiced Steak) from the Mains chapter was my son’s favorite. Very thin slices of beef are briefly marinated, then tossed in a seasoning mix and seared on each side. They are finished with a simmer in a buttery sauce and served with an assortment of sliced vegetables.
The Baasto Isku Karis (One-Pot Lamb Pasta) recipe is such a comforting option with just a little prep. Pasta is simmered with diced lamb and a blend of tomato, xawaash, tamarind, and vegetables until tender. It is finished with a splash of lemon and optionally a spoonful of bisbaas qumbe (recipe in book) before serving.
The Malawax (Malawah, Sweet Crepes) recipe was another favorite with the kids. A popular option for weekends and Ramadan, the cinnamon-scented batter comes together easily using a blender until smooth, then ladlefuls are swirled in a pan to create a thin layer. Before flipping, it is drizzled with butter to create golden blisters across the surface. They were absolutely delicious served with a sprinkling of sugar.
The Ramadan Kitchen is a fantastic pick whether you are looking for Ramadan-inspired recipes or a comforting variety of options for throughout the year. Ilhan has developed the recipes with home cooks in mind every step of the way, using time-saving techniques without compromising flavor. Many come together in less than an hour and often with minimal dishes. Others require a bit more resting or cooking time, but multiple parts can often be planned ahead.
Most of the ingredients can be found in larger American grocery stores. Having a market with North African and Middle Eastern ingredients will be helpful in locating some items such as sumac, tamarind paste, sorghum flour, date paste, za’atar, dried limes, Aleppo pepper, and kunafa pastry.
Bur (Cardamom-Spiced Beignets) Recipe
Excerpt from The Ramadan Kitchen
Bur (Somali Cardamom-Spiced Beignets)
Ingredients
- 3 tablespoons granulated sugar
- 3 tablespoons sunflower oil plus extra for greasing and frying
- 1 tablespoon (9 grams) fast-action instant yeast
- 1 cup (225 milliliters) milk warmed (105-115˚F,40-46˚C)
- 3 cups (350 grams) all-purpose flour plus extra if needed and for dusting
- 1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom optional, but highly recommended
- confectioners' sugar (powdered sugar) for dusting, optional
Instructions
- Start by adding the sugar, oil and yeast to a large bowl.
- Pour in most of the warm milk, reserving 2–3 tablespoons for later use. Whisk the mixture together until the yeast has completely dissolved.
- Stir the flour into the mixture until well combined. If using, add the cardamom at this stage. If the dough feels too dry after mixing, add the reserved milk; if it’s too wet, mix in an extra 1–2 tablespoons of flour. Knead the dough thoroughly until smooth, then form it into a large ball.
- Place the dough in an oiled bowl to prevent sticking, cover and set it in a warm, dark place to prove for at least 30 minutes. You can leave it longer, but don’t leave it too long, as this can risk an overly yeasty flavor.
- Once the dough has risen, roll it out on a well-floured surface and fold it over a few times.
- Divide the dough into five balls, then roll each ball out individually to a 6 inch (15 centimeter) circle, about 1/4 inch (5 millimeters) thick.
- Cut each circle into four to five triangles, or any shape you prefer. I (Ilhan) often use a cup to cut out circles. After cutting, dust both sides with flour.
- Heat sunflower oil in a pot until it reaches 350°F (180°C), or until a cube of bread browns in 30 seconds, and carefully add the dough pieces, working in batches to avoid overcrowding the pot and ensuring the oil isn’t too hot, as it can cook the exterior quicker than the inside. Cook until the dough shapes rise to the top and puff up. Gently pour hot oil over them using a spoon to help them puff up more.
- Once golden brown on one side, flip them over and fry briefly on the other side before removing with a slotted spoon (the second side doesn’t need as long to cook).
- Drain on paper towels and leave to cool, then enjoy them as they are or dust with confectioners’ sugar for a sweet treat.
Marge
Do you think these could be air-fryed? I don’t use oil much anymore to fry food. I think I will try and see what happens. Thanks for all the wonderful recipes!
Tara
Hi Marge! I haven’t personally tried them in the air fryer, so can’t be sure of the results. Maybe try them in a similar way you did for the Berliner and spray each side with the oil? They probably won’t need as long since they are thinner and more airy. I would start at 375˚F and around 2-3 minutes on each side.