A recipe for Schlutzkrapfen inspired by my time in Innsbruck, Austria! This Tyrolean pasta is filled with a spinach cheese mixture and served in brown butter.
Last fall, I visited Austria for the first time! I spent a little over a week traveling through Innsbruck, Salzburg, Wolfgangsee, and Linz, then finished with a few days in Germany to see friends before returning home. I completely fell in love with the country and miss everything already.
A couple of weeks ago, I shared the Innsbruck Innenstadt and a recipe for Kaspressknödel (Austrian Cheese Dumplings). Today, I am covering the areas of Innsbruck and just outside of the city I reached via transportation, plus a recipe for Schlutzkrapfen.
Innsbruck
Innsbruck is the capital of Tirol (Tyrol) in Western Austria and is beautifully nestled in the Austrian Alps along the Inn River.
The city is a popular location for winter sports, hiking, architecture, museums, Tyrolean cuisine, and stunning mountain views. It was also the host of the Winter Olympics in 1964 and 1976 and the Winter Paralympics in 1984 and 1988.
I got by using German, but often heard and saw translations for Italian and English while in the restaurants, shops, and tourist attractions.
During my three days in Mid-October, temperatures were mild in the 40s-50s˚F (5-10˚C) with intermittent rain.
I recommend two to three days to enjoy the city at a relaxed pace or closer to four if you want to spend more time in the surrounding mountains or see neighboring towns such as Hall in Tirol.
Peak seasons are winter for skiing/other snow-related sports and summer for hiking. I am not an avid hiker and have not skied in decades, so my focus was more on the city itself and the food.
As a note, some locations are closed in November and may have shortened hours during the off-season.
Getting to Innsbruck
Innsbruck can easily be reached via multiple locations across Central Europe. From Salzburg, trains take a little over 2 hours. It is also a little over 4 hours from Zürich, 4 1/2 hours from Vienna, 5 hours from Venice, 5 1/2 hours from Frankfurt am Main, and 6 hours from Milan.
Flughafen Innsbruck (Innsbruck Airport, INN) is just west of the city and connected via a 10-15 minute bus.
I flew nonstop from Dulles International Airport (IAD) to Flughafen München „Franz Josef Strauß“/Munich International Airport (MUC), then took the S8 train from the airport to München Ost (about 30 minutes), and finally the ÖBB Railjet (high speed train) to Innsbruck Hauptbahnhof (about 1 hour 45 minutes).
If using the trains, I highly recommend downloading the ÖBB app (Österreichische Bundesbahnen). The app is available in English and it is easy to search for and book trains/buses along with seat reservations (also recommended, especially if traveling with more people).
While checking into my hotel, I bought a 72 hour Innsbruck Card at the reception desk. Available in 24, 28, and 72 hour increments, this card covers local transportation and mountain lifts along with full admission or discounts to popular attractions (everything included in this post).
Schloss Ambras
Schloss Ambras (Ambras Castle) is located on the southern outskirts of Innsbruck about 4 kilometers (2 1/2 miles) southeast of the city center at Schloßstraße 20.
This beautiful castle began as a medieval fortress with documentation dating back to the 10th century, before Innsbruck even became a city. It was destroyed in 1133 by Henry the Proud, then rebuilt 150 years later.
After becoming the residence of Archduke Ferdinand II in 1564, the grounds were renovated and extended into a Renaissance castle with part of the building transformed into a museum to house his collections- making it one of the oldest museums in the world.
Since 1919, it has been the property of the Republic of Austria and is now home to the Upper Castle, Lower Castle, Bacchus Grotto, Keuchengarten, and a large wooded area with paths in nearly every direction.
A few highlights include the extensive armory, Chamber of Art and Curiosities, Strasser Glass Collection, St. Nicholas Chapel, Habsburg Portrait Gallery, and the impressive Spanish Hall (completed in 1572 and stretches 43 meters long/13 meters wide with 27 portraits of Tyrolean rulers along the walls and a gorgeous wooden ceiling).
To reach Schloss Ambras, I took the M Bus from the Innsbruck Maria-Theresien-Straße stop (towards Aldrans Fagslung) in the city center to the Innsbruck Schloss Ambras stop (about 10-15 minutes), then walked up the path about 450 meters (1/4 mile) to the castle.
Once I was ready to leave, I walked down a different path about 500 meters (1/3 mile) to the C Bus at Innsbruck Luigenstraße (towards Innsbruck Sieglanger) to Innsbruck Maria-Theresien-Straße (about 15 minutes).
From Innsbruck Hauptbahnhof, Schloss Ambras is accessible via Post bus line 540 (towards Hall in Tirol Milser Straße) and takes about 10 minutes to the Innsbruck Schloss Ambras stop.
Current hours are 10 am to 5 pm daily with a full closure during the month of November. The Habsburg Portrait Gallery and The Gothic Sculptures Collection are open from April to October. Paths on the castle grounds may close during inclement weather.
Audio guides with explanations of 150 objects within the castle are available for an additional price in German, English, Italian, and French. A variety of guided tours (in German) and workshops can also be booked in advance.
Before heading back to the city center, I stopped by Café & Bistro Ferdinand in the Ambras Upper Castle for lunch. This café has a variety of refreshments, soups, salads, light meals, and desserts. During my visit, payment was via cash only.
I enjoyed one of my absolute favorite meals from the trip here, Tiroler Schlutzkrapfen gefüllt mit Spinat und einem grünen Salat (Tyrolean pasta filled with spinach and served with a green salad). It was the inspiration for today’s recipe.
Top of Innsbruck
On the opposite side of the city along the Nordkette (mountain range on the southern edge of Karwendel Nature Park) is the Top of Innsbruck.
At 2,334 meters (7,657 feet), the Top of Innsbruck is the highest point within the city limits and easily accessible from the Innenstadt via the Innsbruck Nordkettenbahnen- a series of three lifts. With the Innsbruck card, I was able to just scan the pass on my phone to enter each of the cable car platforms without any waiting at the ticket booth.
The first section, the Hungerburgbahn (a funicular), has a station at Rennweg 3 in the city center with stops at ORF Tirol, Alpenzoo, and Hungerburg.
From Hungerburg, there is a transfer to the Seegrubenbahn cable car. This cable car goes to Seegrube, then there is a final transfer to the Hafelekarbahn to reach the Top of Innsbruck at the Hafelekar station.
The entire trip takes about 30 minutes, but long lines may form to board during peak hours when they reach capacity.
There are platforms just outside of the station with panoramic views (depending on the weather) of the city and valley below. If you want to go even higher, you can walk up about 15 minutes further to the Hafelekarspitze.
I do not recommend buying tickets in advance. Instead, keep an eye on the weather conditions before committing to the trip. I was only in Innsbruck for three days with light rain for most of that time. Finally, on the afternoon of my third day, there was a break in the clouds.
The previous days of rain actually brought the first snowfall of the season (in October) to the mountains and it was so fun to spend some time enjoying the incredible views and new layer of fresh snow (while back home, it was still in the 70s˚F).
Other activities on the mountain include skiing/snowboarding, hiking, paragliding, and restaurants.
Alpenzoo
On my way back down the mountain, I got off at the Hungerburgbahn Alpenzoo stop to visit Alpenzoo Innsbruck. After exiting the funicular, there are a few levels of stairs (or an elevator) down to the street level, then a 300 meter (984 ft) walk to the entrance.
Alpenzoo Innsbruck is very unique with a focus on the local wildlife found in diverse habitats across the Alpine region. It also happens to be the highest zoo in Europe at 750 meters (2,461 feet) above sea level.
Founded by zoologist Hans Psenner in 1962, the zoo is now home to approximately 2,000 Alpine animals spanning across 150 species in naturally designed enclosures (many of which you can walk through), terrariums, and one of the world’s largest cold water aquariums housing most of the fish species found in the Alps.
Notable residents include bearded vultures (the largest birds in the Alps and successfully reintroduced to the region following their extinction in 1913), brown bear, wallcreeper, European bison, northern bald ibis, Alpine ibex, Eurasian lynx, adder, fire salamander, golden eagle, and rare native breeds of livestock.
Allow for 2-3 hours to see most of the exhibits. Keep in mind, the zoo has been built along the side of the Nordkette with fairly steep paths.
Some of the animals hibernate in winter such as the Alpine marmots. The best time to see baby animals is from April to June.
If visiting Alpenzoo from the city and not using the funicular, City Bus W has a stop right at the entrance. I used this to get back as I was leaving. It can also be reached by foot and is about a 2 kilometer (1.2 mile) walk uphill from the Markthalle.
Swarovski Kristallwelten
19 kilometers (12 miles) east of Innsbruck in the town of Wattens is Swarovski Kristallwelten (Crystal Worlds).
Open daily from 9:00-19:00, Swarovski Kristallwelten features both underground and outdoor exhibits centering around the Swarovski brand with fun backdrops for photos, original and re-created crystal pieces from pop culture, and unique art installations.
During my visit in mid-October, crowd levels were fairly low and I had no issue entering with the Innsbruck card, which I was able to scan at the entrance and didn’t need to wait at the ticket booth.
In the summer and on weekends, they may reach peak capacity and buying tickets in advance is recommended.
After going through the exhibits, the exit leads to a large Swarovski gift shop and a café.
I was still struggling with jet lag and a cappuccino from the Crystal Bar was perfect before heading back to the city. They also had a variety of cakes and pastries on display including the Sacher Torte, Mohn Schnitte, Topfen-Obersschnitte, and Blechkuchen des Tages (sheet cake of the day).
In the outdoor area, there are additional art installations, a playground and play tower for younger visitors, gardens, and a carousel.
The Swarovski store and Daniels Kristallwelten by DoN restaurant can both be accessed without a ticket. I did not personally try it, but the restaurant features Tyrolean cuisine and international options with a focus on seasonal ingredients.
Transportation via the e-shuttle bus is also included with the Innsbruck Card. This shuttle offers five round trips per day between Innsbruck Hauptbahnhof and Congress/Hofburg to Swarovski Kristallwelten. Simply show the card to the driver when getting on the shuttle.
If using the shuttle during peak hours, I recommend getting on at the Hauptbahnhof since many of the seats may be taken by the time it gets to Congress/Hofburg.
Tiroler Abend
Tiroler Abend Familie Gundolf is a fun option for tourists interested in an overview of Tyrolean music and dance. Originally started in 1967 as „Alpenbühne Geschwister Gundolf“ by brothers Franz, Konrad and Ernst Gundolf, this evening show is now in its third generation with a lively program highlighting traditional folk music, yodeling, Tyrolean dances, and other entertainment.
During the summer season (May-October), performances take place daily at 8:30 pm and last until 10 pm. From November-April, dates are less frequent. I only stayed for the performance, but there is the option for a pre-show three-course dinner with a focus on local cuisine at 7 pm.
Tiroler Abend is currently held at Alpensaal an der Messe. From Goldenes Dachl, it is about a 950 meter (2/3 mile) walk. You can also take tram line 1 (towards Innsbruck Mühlauer Brücke) to the Innsbruck Messe/Zeughaus stop just outside the entrance.
Since I was traveling solo in an unfamiliar area, I was a little nervous about walking later at night and purchased the transfer service. I was picked up and dropped off just outside of the pedestrian zone of my hotel. Everything went smoothly and it was all such a wonderful experience.
Tickets can be purchased through their website and discounts are available for those with the Innsbruck Card and Welcome Card.
Schlutzkrapfen
After enjoying the Schlutzkrapfen while at Schloss Ambras, I was excited to learn how to make them at home!
Schlutzkrapfen are a filled pasta in a crescent/half-moon shape from Tirol in Western Austria and Südtirol in Northern Italy (where it is also known as Mezzelune and Ravioli Tirolesi).
This pasta comes with a few different fillings based on the season. Today, I am sharing a recipe for Schlutzkrapfen mit Spinatfüllung (Schlipfkrapfen mit Spinatfülle, Schlutzkrapfen with Spinach Filling) since that is the version I had at the café. I also tried them with a porcini mushroom filling while in Salzburg.
Notable Ingredients
Topfen/Quark (translates to curds in German) is a fresh, soft cheese with a cow’s milk base. It can sometimes be found in the specialty cheese or dairy section of larger American grocery stores or markets with Central European ingredients.
Lately, it has become more difficult to locate here in the US and I have been making my own using buttermilk and a yogurt maker. To make Topfen at home, pour buttermilk into a wide glass bowl and place the bowl in the yogurt machine for about 12 hours until the cream rises and separates from the whey.
After it separates into two layers, place a fine mesh sieve over a large bowl and line it with coffee filters. Pour in the separated buttermilk and place the bowl into the refrigerator for about 6 hours until drained and a creamy Topfen/Quart remains in the sieve. If you are using store-bought Topfen/Quark and it has a lot of moisture, drain before using.
The Topfen can be swapped for ricotta (make sure it is drained of moisture) in equal amounts for a South Tyrolean version.
Bringing together the Dough
I came across varying ratios of all-purpose flour to rye flour in the dough. After a few test batches, I personally preferred half all-purpose and half rye (I used a medium white rye flour). For lighter dumplings, you can go with 2/3 all-purpose and 1/3 rye.
Do not pack in the flour when measuring or you may end up with too much. To measure flour, gently spoon it into the measuring cup and level with a knife without pressing down. The most accurate way to measure is by weight.
If the pasta dough is too dry and crumbly, slowly add a little more water. If too wet and sticky, slowly add a little more all-purpose flour until easier to handle (take care not to add too much).
After forming the dough, wrap in plastic or cover and allow to rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes or up to an hour. This will make it easier to roll and shape. If you have leftover dough, it can be wrapped and refrigerated for up to a day before using.
Forming the Schlutzkrapfen
Either roll the formed dough by hand or with a pasta machine. It needs to be a thin sheet, about 1/16-1/8 inch (1.5-3 millimeters) thick. For a pasta machine, this will be the thinnest setting.
If you have a difficult time rolling the dough and it keeps shrinking back, wrap back up in the plastic and allow it to rest for another 15 minutes or so.
Lightly dust with flour as needed to keep the pasta from sticking to the work surface or pasta machine.
Cover the dough you are not currently using with a clean cloth or plastic wrap to keep it from drying out.
If using a scalloped round cutter, make sure the edges match as they are pressed together. If using a plain round cutter, you can also use a fork to press down and seal the edges.
Arrange the formed Schlutzkrapfen in a single layer on a parchment-lined baking sheet. If you don’t want to cook them right away, freeze the baking sheet and once chilled, transfer the pasta to an airtight, freezer-safe bag for up to 3 months.
Simmer the pasta straight from the freezer. A couple of minutes may need to be added to the cooking time.
Brown Butter
To brown the butter, melt butter over medium-low heat in a saucepan. I recommend using a stainless steel pan so you can see the butter change colors as it cooks to avoid it becoming too dark.
As the butter melts, it will start to foam and bubble. This is normal. Continue to swirl the pan or lightly stir until the overall color becomes a light golden with browned flecks throughout. Do not step away from the pan since this happens quickly.
Remove from heat immediately when it gets to this light golden brown stage. Butter will quickly go from golden to burnt.
Schlutzkrapfen Recipe
Adapted from Tiroler Küche by Maria Drewes
Schlutzkrapfen
Ingredients
Pasta Dough:
- 1 1/2 cups (190 grams) all-purpose flour
- 1 1/2 cups (170 grams) rye flour I used medium rye flour
- pinch fine salt
- 1 large egg
- 1 tablespoon (15 milliliters) olive oil
- 1/2 cup (120 milliliters) lukewarm water
Filling:
- 9 ounces (250 grams) fresh baby spinach
- 1 tablespoon (14 grams) unsalted butter
- 1/2 medium onion peeled and very finely chopped
- 1 clove garlic peeled and minced
- 1/2 teaspoon fine salt
- 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- pinch freshly grated nutmeg
- 1/2 cup (120 grams) Topfen Quark
To serve:
- brown butter
- freshly grated or finely sliced Parmesan
- thinly sliced chives
Instructions
To make the dough:
- In a large bowl, mix together the all-purpose flour, rye flour, and salt.
- Make a well in the center. Add the egg, olive oil, and slowly mix in the lukewarm water to form a dough.
- On a lightly floured surface, knead the dough until smooth. If still too crumbly after kneading, add a little more water. If too wet to handle without sticking, add a little more all-purpose flour to the work surface.
- Form into a round, wrap in plastic or cover with a bowl, and allow to rest at room temperature for 30 minutes to 1 hour.
To make the spinach filling:
- Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the spinach and cook just until wilted and vibrant, about 1 minute.
- Drain in a colander and set aside until cool enough to handle.
- Once the spinach is cool enough to handle, squeeze out as much moisture as possible and finely chop. Set aside.
- Place a pan over medium heat and add the 1 tablespoon (14 grams) butter.
- Once melted add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent.
- Add the garlic and cook just until fragrant.
- Stir in the finely chopped spinach, then season with the salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Once all the moisture has evaporated, remove from heat and set aside to cool.
- Once cooled to room temperature, place the spinach onion mixture in a large bowl and fold in the Topfen until evenly combined. Adjust seasonings as desired.
To assemble:
- Divide the dough into four equal pieces.
- Place one piece on a flour-dusted work surface and cover the remainder with a towel. Line a large baking sheet with parchment.
- Roll the dough into a thin sheet using a pasta machine or rolling pin, until it is about 1/16th inch (1.5 millimeter) thick.
- Cut the sheet of pasta into circles using a round scalloped 3.5 inch (9 centimeter) cutter.
- Place a spoonful of the spinach filling in the center of the circle, leaving the edges clear. Lightly moisten the edges with water and fold the circle in half over the filling and seal, pressing out any air bubbles, to create a crescent or half moon shape. Press down on the edges firmly to seal well.
- Place the filled pasta on a parchment-lined baking sheet and cover with a cloth. Repeat with remaining circles and dough.
To serve:
- Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
- Reduce to a simmer and add a few assembled Schlutzkrapfen at a time. Cook, stirring lightly to keep them from sticking to the sides of the pot, until they rise to the top and are tender, about 3-4 minutes.
- Use a slotted spoon to transfer the boiled Schlutzkrapfen from the water to the serving plate. Repeat with the remaining pieces.
- Serve immediately with a generous drizzle of brown butter and sprinkling of Parmesan and chives.
Sally Clark
Hi Tara, You never fail to impress me with your recipes and tours. Thank you! Sally
Tara
Thank you so much! It means so much to me. Hope you are doing well ❤️.