A recipe for Kaspressknödel (Austrian Cheese Dumplings) inspired by my time in Innsbruck, Austria! These pressed dumplings are packed with bread and cheese, then pan-fried until golden.
Last fall, I visited Austria for the first time! I spent a little over a week traveling through Innsbruck, Salzburg, Wolfgangsee, and Linz, then finished with a few days in Germany to see friends before returning home. I completely fell in love with the country and miss everything already.
I am starting with the Innsbruck Innenstadt (I will feature the areas in or near Innsbruck I reached via transportation next), along with a recipe for Kaspressknödel (Austrian Cheese Dumplings).
Innsbruck
Innsbruck is the capital of Tirol (Tyrol) in Western Austria and is beautifully nestled in the Austrian Alps along the Inn River.
The city is a popular location for winter sports, hiking, architecture, museums, Tyrolean cuisine, and stunning mountain views. It was also the host of the Winter Olympics in 1964 and 1976 and the Winter Paralympics in 1984 and 1988.
I got by using German, but often heard and saw translations for Italian and English while in the restaurants, shops, and tourist attractions.
During my three days in Mid-October, temperatures were mild in the 40s-50s˚F (5-10˚C) with intermittent rain.
I recommend two to three days to enjoy the city at a relaxed pace or closer to four if you want to spend more time in the surrounding mountains or see neighboring towns such as Hall in Tirol.
Peak seasons are winter for skiing/other snow-related sports and summer for hiking. I am not an avid hiker and have not skied in decades, so my focus was more on the city itself and the food.
As a note, some notable locations are closed in November.
Getting to Innsbruck
Innsbruck can easily be reached via multiple locations across Central Europe. From Salzburg, trains take a little over 2 hours. It is also a little over 4 hours from Zürich, 4 1/2 hours from Vienna, 5 hours from Venice, 5 1/2 hours from Frankfurt am Main, and 6 hours from Milan.
Flughafen Innsbruck (Innsbruck Airport, INN) is just west of the city and connected via a 10-15 minute bus.
I flew nonstop from Dulles International Airport (IAD) to Flughafen München „Franz Josef Strauß“/Munich International Airport (MUC), then took the S8 train from the airport to München Ost (about 30 minutes), and finally the ÖBB Railjet (high speed train) to Innsbruck Hauptbahnhof (about 1 hour 45 minutes).
If using the trains, I highly recommend downloading the ÖBB app (Österreichische Bundesbahnen). The app is available in English and it is easy to search for and book trains/buses along with seat reservations (also recommended, especially if traveling with more people).
Once you reach the train station, it is about a 10 minute walk (850 meters, 0.5 mile) to the Innenstadt. The city center is walkable, mostly flat, and I reached everything included in this post by foot. The area is also well-connected via buses and trams.
Altstadthotel Weisses Kreuz
During my time in Innsbruck, I stayed at Altstadthotel Weisses Kreuz.
Situated in the heart of the city at Herzog-Friedrich-Straße 31, this hotel was established in 1465 and has seen quite a lot over the last nearly 600 years. Mozart even stayed here in 1769 at the age of 13.
In 2017, the hotel was purchased by the new owners, Thomas and Brigitte, and the property was fully renovated in the summer of 2021 to blend Baroque opulence and history with more modern touches.
Altstadthotel Weisses Kreuz is now home to 48 rooms and suites, each with a unique style ranging from Mozart and Golden Roof suites to those featuring patios and balconies and more miniature options at 13 m² to 20 m² if you want to get a feel for how the rooms used to be.
I booked the Balkonien (room with a balcony). This monocolored room (19-30 m²) is best for up to two people with a king or queen bed, free high speed Wi-Fi, shower (open in the center of the room), ample counter space, and small balcony with two chairs and a table.
I especially loved the reading nook with the small window looking out to the city.
The reception for the hotel is located on the top level with the bar (accessible via elevator). The breakfast (available for an additional rate- I did not personally try it since I had my eye on nearby bakeries) is located here as well: daily 7:00-11:00.
My stay at Weisses Kreuz included a Welcome Card (if staying longer than two nights), which covers local transportation and provides discounts on multiple attractions and activities.
I was trying to see as much as possible during my short time in the city, so I ended up buying a 72 hour Innsbruck Card at the reception desk while checking in. Available in 24, 28, and 72 hour increments, this card covers local transportation and mountain lifts along with full admission to popular attractions (everything in this post) within Innsbruck city limits and nearby Hall in Tirol and Swarovski Kristallwelten.
Blaue Brigitte
Blaue Brigitte is the bar located on the 6th floor of the Weisses Kreuz. Open daily from 6pm, they feature classic and innovative cocktails with a seasonal focus along with non-alcoholic options.
It is no longer available, but I picked the Purple Dream with Laphroaig 10, lemon, Crème de Mûre, and sugar.
Der Bäcker Ruetz
Der Bäcker Ruetz’ Altstadt location was just across the street from my hotel at Herzog-Friedrich-Straße 36 and a perfect option for a light breakfast or afternoon treat.
This bakery started in Kematen in Tirol just west of Innsbruck in 1899 and now has locations across Western Austria.
They have a variety of local and favorite breads, pastries, and coffee specialties. It was so difficult to narrow down, but I ended up with the Frühstückskipferl since I was still adjusting with the jet lag and wanted something light.
This Vienna-style breakfast Kipferl has a lightly sweetened yeast dough with a golden yellow color in a crescent shape. Recommended pairings include butter or a Blütenhonig (flower honey).
Stadtturm
The Stadtturm (City Tower) at Herzog-Friedrich-Straße 21 was originally built in the 1400s and served as a watchtower and prison. Today, it is a great spot to get panoramic views of the city and mountains 31 meters (102 feet) above the street.
I especially appreciated the double helix design and sturdiness of the metal staircases. One staircase with 148 steps is dedicated to those going up and the other for going down, so no squeezing by or waiting for others in a claustrophobic space.
Cafe Katzung
One morning, I had a small breakfast at Cafe Katzung across the street from the hotel at Herzog-Friedrich-Straße 16.
This cafe dates back to 1793 and serves a variety of cakes, pastries, desserts, breakfast options, larger meals, and specialty coffee with indoor and outdoor seating. Items in the glass case and on the menu are labeled with notable ingredients such as gluten, egg, fish, soy, and nut products.
I enjoyed Das Standardfrühstück- eine Kaisersemmel mit Butter, Marmelade oder Honig und Verlängertem (Kaiser roll with butter, Marmelade, or honey) and Katzung Kaffee- der Hausgenuss, mit Orangenlikör und Schlagobers (house specialty coffee with orange liqueur and whipped cream).
‘s Fachl
‘s Fachl’s Innsbruck location at Riesengasse 3 is a fun spot to look for unique products created by local vendors. ‘s Fachl is an Austrian-based company with now over 30 locations across Austria, Germany, and Switzerland.
I have developed a tradition to bring back coffee for Chad whenever I travel without him, so I picked up a bag here.
Goldenes Dachl
The Goldenes Dachl (Golden Roof) is one of the most famous landmarks in Innsbruck.
Located at the northern end of Herzog-Friedrich-Straße, this roof was covered in 2,657 fire-gilded copper shingles around the year 1500 to commemorate the marriage of Emperor Maximilian I to Bianca Maria Sforza.
The interior of the building houses the Museum Goldenes Dachl (Golden Roof Museum), which originally opened in 1996 to the public and has been renovated a couple of times since.
This small museum covers the history of the roof and the life of Emperor Maximilian I with interactive exhibits and multimedia technologies. It also offers a more unique view of the city center via the balcony.
Culinarium
For my last evening in Innsbruck, I had a heavier lunch and wanted to enjoy something (slightly) light at dinner. I was drawn to Culinarium Innsbruck with their sign for Kaiserschmarrn just outside the entrance.
Culinarium Innsbruck is a wine bar located just around the corner from Goldenes Dachl (Golden Roof) and Domplatz at Pfarrgasse 1. They feature a variety of wines along with regional dishes and small bites.
I, of course, chose the Kaiserschmarrn (cut up pancake with fresh strawberries, powdered sugar, and a side of applesauce) and paired it with a glass of Rosé Rabea. Kaiserschmarrn often comes with raisins which I do not particularly love, so I was especially excited to see they were not included.
Xocolat
Xocolat’s Innsbruck location at Herzog-Friedrich-Straße 10 is perfect for chocolate lovers with an assortment of bars, truffles, bonbons, drinking chocolate, and gift options.
My favorite flavors were the Salz Karamell (salted caramel), Yuzu, and Kalamansi.
Tirol Geniessen
A little further down the street at Hofgasse 5 is Tirol Geniessen. This beautiful shop is filled with handcrafted spirits and Tyrolean specialties made by local artisans and manufacturers.
Each bottle is filled and labeled to order for quite the unique souvenir or gift option.
Strudel-Cafe Kröll
The very first thing I ate in Austria was a Trio Strudel (Topfen/Quark, Mohn/poppyseed, Nuss/nut) from Strudel-Café Kröll at Hofgasse 6.
Strudel-Café Kröll features a variety of sweet, savory, and regional Strudel along with breakfast and brunch offerings. There is indoor and outdoor seating available, but it was a bit busy when I stopped by so I took mine to go.
Stiftskeller
For my first evening in Innsbruck, I had dinner at Stiftskeller. It worked out well with the spacious seating, no reservations required (in case my plane got delayed), and Sunday open hours.
This restaurant and Bierlokal is situated in the heart of the Altstadt at Stiftgasse 1/7. They feature Tyrolean cuisine and drinks in a comforting space with both indoor and outdoor seating. The menu online is available in German, Italian, English, French, and Spanish.
I was apparently really wanting cheese since I was drawn to the Hausgemachte Käsespätzle mit gerösteten Zwiebeln und gemischtem Blattsalat (Housemade cheese Spätzle with fried onions and a mixed salad) along with Kaspressknödel in einer klaren Rindsuppe (Cheese dumpling in a clear beef broth).
I paired all of this with a glass of Grüner Veltliner Weinviertel „Stiftskeller Edition“ – Weingut Hagn, Mailberg/Weinviertel- Niederösterreich.
My tablemate got Gekochter Tafelspitz mit Kren (Meerrettich), Blattspinat und Röstkartoffeln (Boiled beef with horseradish, spinach, and roasted potatoes).
Hofburg Innsbruck
Hofburg Innsbruck (Imperial Palace) is a former Habsburg palace located at Rennweg 1 and is one of the most important cultural buildings in Austria.
It began as a medieval fortification, underwent multiple expansions including its transformation into an Imperial Palace by Emperor Maximilian I, and the complex was extended again during the 1770s to over 400 rooms in the Viennese late Baroque style under Empress Maria Theresa.
Notable sites include Maria Theresa’s Rooms- Giants’ Hall (Riesensaal) and Guard Hall (Gardesaal), Empress Elisabeth’s (Sisi) Apartment, and exhibits covering the history of the palace and city.
As a note, photography is not allowed inside the museum.
Tiroler Volkskunst Museum
The Tiroler Volkskunstmuseum (Tyrolean Folk Art Museum) at Universitätsstraße 2 was one of my favorite stops while in Innsbruck. This museum was founded in 1888 and opened to the public in 1929.
It offers a fascinating introduction into Tyrolean culture. I personally could have spent hours here looking through all the kitchen/baking equipment.
The exhibits also showcase masks, local fashion, handicrafts, toys, and an overall insight into daily life including multiple wood-paneled rooms from across Tyrol’s history.
Many of the labels describe the products on display in Italian and English along with German.
From the museum, there is an entrance through the courtyard to Hofkirche (Court Church).
Hofkirche (Court Church) is a gothic church commissioned by Emperor Ferdinand I in the mid 1500s as a memorial to his grandfather, Emperor Maximilian I.
In the center of the church is the cenotaph of Maximilian I (he is actually buried in Wiener Neustadt) surrounded by 28 life-size bronze statues depicting notable figures (40 were originally planned) in incredible detail.
Weisses Rössl
For my second evening in Innsbruck, I had dinner reservations at Wirtshaus Weisses Rössl.
Weisses Rössl is located on the first floor of the boutique hotel at Kiebachgasse 8 with a focus on regional and seasonal cuisine. Seating is available within three rustic rooms or out in the sun terrace. As a note, they are closed on Sundays and public holidays. Reservations are available through their website.
For dinner, I enjoyed the Tiroler Gröstl- Röstkartoffeln mit Rindfleisch, Spiegelei und Speckkrautsalat (Roasted potatoes with beef, fried egg, and a bacon cabbage salad on the side) and a glass of Orangenwein (skin-fermented white wine with an orange color)- Gewürztraminer | Grauburgunder | Renner | Gols | Burgenland | Österreich.
Wagner’sche
I stopped by Wagner’sche Buchhandlung at Museumstraße 4 to look for cookbooks. They had quite the sizable collection along with a variety of other books in German, some in English, and a café.
I was looking specifically for books covering Tyrolean cuisine and took home Tiroler Küche by Maria Drewes and Meine Tiroler Welt by Viktoria Fahringer.
Manni Coffee
Manni Coffee is a small café at Anichstraße 2. They feature coffee and other drinks along with croissants and wraps.
I sat inside (order at the counter) and enjoyed a Cappuccino, but they also have outdoor seating or take-away.
Triumphpforte
The Triumphpforte (Triumph Arch) on Maria-Theresien-Straße is another notable site in Innsbruck.
This arch was built in 1765 in commemoration of Archduke Leopold’s wedding to Infanta Maria Luisa of Spain. Unfortunately his father, Francis Stephen, died during this time. So the southern side highlights the wedding while the northern side shows the mourning motifs.
Markthalle
Last, but definitely not least, the Markthalle at Herzog-Siegmund-Ufer 1-3 next to the Inn River is a wonderful option for food lovers.
This large indoor market is filled with over 40 stalls and restaurants selling regional and international ready-made food, gifts, vegetables, fruits, refrigerated items, and more.
Kaspressknödel
Inspired by my very first dinner in Innsbruck at Stiftskeller, I made Kaspressknödel (Austrian Cheese Dumplings) after returning home.
These pressed dumplings are packed with bread and cheese, then pan-fried until golden. The result is a dumpling with thin, crispy edges that give way to a soft cheesy center.
If you love different types of Knödel and want to try making them at home, these are a particularly good place to start. Since the dumplings are pan-fried instead of boiled, the mixture is a little more forgiving and less likely to fall apart.
A Few Kaspressknödel Tips
A particularly wonderful use of leftovers, the base of this recipe comes from stale bread cubes. I am currently working on a recipe for Kaisersemmel for the upcoming Wolfgangsee, Austria travel post and have been using the resulting test rolls to make these dumplings.
If Kaisersemmeln are not available, swap for another type of white bread roll with a thin, crispy crust.
Some recipes use breadcrumbs in place of the flour. Meine Tiroler Welt also includes cooked, mashed potato.
If at all possible, try to use Austrian Bergkäse (Alpine cheese) for the most authentic flavor. Some recipes use a blend of Bergkäse and Graukäse. I have yet to locate Austrian cheese in the areas I have lived in the United States and usually substitute with Gruyère, Emmentaler, or Appenzeller.
After bringing together the mixture, rest at room temperature for about 20 minutes to give the flavors a chance to settle before forming into individual patties.
The mixture should be slightly wet and sticky. Lightly moisten your hands with water to handle more easily. If just too wet to form into patties, add a little more flour. If too dry to hold together, add a little more milk.
These Kaspressknödel are best warm from the skillet. Leftovers can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to three days.
To reheat, fry again in a skillet until crisp or heat in a 350˚F (180˚C) oven. Once cooked and cooled to room temperature, they can also be frozen in an airtight, freezer-safe container for up to two months.
Serving Ideas
I especially love the Kaspressknödel served simply in a clear beef broth with a sprinkling of chives (or a vegetable broth for a vegetarian option).
They are also fantastic alongside a salad with a generous drizzle of brown butter and chopped chives.
To brown the butter, melt butter over medium-low heat in a saucepan. I recommend using a stainless steel pan so you can see the butter change colors as it cooks to avoid it becoming too dark.
As the butter melts, it will start to foam and bubble. This is normal. Continue to swirl the pan or lightly stir until the overall color becomes a light golden with browned flecks throughout. Do not step away from the pan since this happens quickly.
Remove from heat immediately when it gets to this light golden brown stage. Butter will quickly go from golden to burnt.
Kaspressknödel (Austrian Cheese Dumplings) Recipe
Adapted from Meine Tiroler Welt by Viktoria Fahringer
Kaspressknödel (Austrian Cheese Dumplings)
Ingredients
Kaspressknödel:
- 9 ounces (250 grams) day-old Kaisersemmel or stale white rolls
- 1 cup (240 milliliters) warm milk
- 2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted butter
- 1 medium onion peeled and finely chopped
- 1 garlic clove peeled and minced
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
- pinch black pepper
- 1/4 cup (10 grams) fresh parsley finely chopped
- 2 large eggs
- 7 ounces (200 grams) Bergkäse Alpine cheese, freshly shredded
- 1/4 cup (31 grams) all-purpose flour
For serving:
- 2 tablespoons (28 grams) Clarified butter or vegetable oil
- Beef broth
- Freshly chopped chives
- Brown butter
- Salad
Instructions
To form the dumplings:
- Cut the stale Kaisersemmel or rolls into cubes no larger than 1/2 inch (1.25 centimeters). Place in a large bowl.
- Pour the warm milk over the bread cubes and set aside.
- In a large skillet, melt the 2 tablespoons (28 grams) butter over medium heat.
- Once melted, add the finely chopped onion and cook, stirring often, until softened and translucent.
- Add the garlic and cook just until fragrant, 30 seconds to 1 minute.
- Remove from heat, then stir in the salt, nutmeg, pepper, and parsley.
- Add the mixture to the bowl with the bread cubes.
- Stir briefly to mix, then add the eggs, shredded cheese, and flour.
- Using your hands, combine the ingredients and briefly knead to bring everything together. Do not overmix. Set aside at room temperature for 20 minutes to allow the flavors to settle.
- Lightly moisten your hands with water and divide the mixture into 9 equal pieces (or 6 for larger dumplings or up to 12 for smaller pieces) and form each into a patty about 1 inch (2.5 centimeters) thick.
- In a large skillet, melt the clarified butter over medium low heat.
- Add the patties in batches, taking care to not overcrowd, and cook until golden brown.
- Carefully flip and cook the other side until golden brown and heated through.
- Remove to a plate and repeat with remaining Kaspressknödel.
- Serve immediately either in a beef broth with a sprinkling of chives or alongside a salad with a drizzle of brown butter and a sprinkling of chives.
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