A recipe for Kartoffelpuffer (German Potato Pancakes) inspired by our time at Munich’s Christmas Markets! These light and crisp potato pancakes are made with finely grated potatoes in just 30 minutes.
Last December, I spent a few days in Munich and Frankfurt am Main, Germany with one of my best friends who graduated with her master’s degree! We had such a wonderful time exploring the cities and checking out the seasonal Christmas markets.
Today, I will be covering our time at Munich’s Christmas Markets along with a recipe for Kartoffelpuffer (German Potato Pancakes).
Munich/München
Munich (München in German) is the capital and largest city of Bavaria in southern Germany.
The city is packed with restaurants, bakeries, shops, museums, palaces, parks, and outdoor spaces along with a unique blend of historical and more modern architecture. It is also home to the annual Oktoberfest in the fall and Christmas markets in December.
In Germany, the currency is the Euro. I used a mixture of cash and credit card. Most of the stands we visited (especially in the smaller or specialty themed markets) were cash only. Also, keep smaller 0.50-1 Euro cent coins on hand for public bathrooms, even in stores and some larger restaurants.
Getting to Munich
To get to Munich, I flew nonstop from Dulles International Airport (IAD) to Flughafen München „Franz Josef Strauß“/Munich International Airport (MUC). The flight was a little over 8 hours.
From the airport, there are regular S1 and S8 trains to the city center. The trip takes about 45 minutes with trains leaving around every 15-20 minutes.
Once you get to the city center, much of the area is walkable and relatively flat. It is also well-connected with the S-Bahn, U-Bahn, buses, and trams.
On days when we needed public transport, Tori and I used a Group Day Ticket (Gruppen-Tageskarte) within the M Zone to reach everything included in this post (except for the airport which requires Zone 5).
Since we bought the ticket each morning from the ticket machine in the S-Bahn station, I chose to have it pre-validated. If the ticket is not already validated with a date/time on the card, make sure to stamp it in one of the small blue boxes before entering the S-Bahn/U-Bahn.
Munich’s Christmas Markets
During the holiday season, over twenty markets in all sizes and themes pop up across Munich. I have included today only the small portion we got a chance to visit during our five days here.
The exact dates for each market vary year to year. In general, opening day is usually during the last week of November. Most of the markets close by the 23rd or 24th of December (often with the last day only being a half day), but some may stretch to the end of the month or to the New Year.
For all the markets, I highly recommend visiting at first during the day shortly after opening to get a better look at the food and souvenir options before the often shoulder to shoulder people later in the evening and on weekends.
Most of the signs of the food and drink items are in German. I have included in this post names and descriptions of all the treats we enjoyed during our trip. For a more comprehensive list of general options, Happy to Wander has put together a guide of 30 typical German Christmas Market foods and drinks.
When getting drinks, they usually come in a ceramic (or more unique) mug. With this mug, there is a Pfand (deposit). The price for the Pfand is either listed on the drink menu or on its own separate sign nearby. Once you finish your drink, return it and get the deposit back.
The Pfand will typically be higher on specialty or more ornate mugs or come with a token that will also need to be returned as well. Some food items such as soup served in bowls may also have a Pfand.
Larger or more busy stands may have a specific Pfand return area, often with a sign for “Ruckgabe/Return” above).
If getting souvenirs, it is helpful to have a small tote bag on hand.
Münchner Christkindlmarkt am Marienplatz
Christkindlmarkt München in the Marienplatz and along the connecting streets is the largest and most popular Christmas Market in Munich with over 130 stalls. This market has origins dating back to the 14th century and has been held in Marienplatz since 1972.
Marienplatz is the main large square in Altstadt bordered by shops, cafés, the Neues Rathaus (New City Hall), and the Altes Rathaus (Old City Hall). It is a beautiful backdrop for the market along with the massive 25 meter (82 feet) Christmas tree wrapped with roughly 3,000 lights.
The stands feature a mixture of handmade, artisan crafts alongside the more mass-produced items available at markets across Europe. Generally, I noticed the vendors selling their own items often had a business card and notes on where their products were made.
In 2025, the dates are currently set for November 24th to December 24th.
As far as food and drinks, we enjoyed the following while in Marienplatz:
- Kinderpunsch– a comforting option for children and those avoiding alcohol (or simply aren’t ready for wine at 10 am). This drink has a blend of fruit juice, fruit tea, and warming spices.
- Kirsch-Glühwein- a mulled red wine with a cherry flavor. It came in such a cute penguin mug.
- Quarkbällchen– fried rounds of a fluffy quark (sour fresh cheese)- based dough coated in sugar. These were arranged on skewers for a fun, portable snack.
- Käsespätzle– light and fluffy dumpling-like pasta coated in cheese and served with fried onions. The stand I got the Käsespätzle from also had Schupfnudeln (finger-shaped, pan-fried potato noodles) tossed with Sauerkraut as an option.
There are a few stalls tucked into the courtyard of the Rathaus. This area also has restrooms for a fee.
If the line for the restrooms is too long, I recommend visiting GALERIA München Marienplatz or Hugendubel (any excuse to look at cookbooks) nearby. Both stores have restrooms on the top floor (and require coins).
GALERIA München Marienplatz also has a grocery store and large assortment of chocolate in the basement level.
From Marienplatz, more stalls line Kaufingerstraße and Neuhauser Straße down to Karlstor.
One of the stalls, Willenborgs Crambambuli, had quite a few interesting variations of Glühwein and other hot drinks.
I ended up trying their Heißer Espresso Martini (hot espresso martini). It was such a unique addition to the market and the flavors were wonderful. I did not see the drink anywhere else during our travels.
In this area along Kaufingerstraße, we also came across a stall featuring one of my favorites, Kartoffelpuffer!
Kartoffelpuffer are thin pancakes packed with grated potato. They are pan-fried on each side until crisp and golden with a soft (and very hot at first) interior.
They are often paired with Apfelmus (applesauce), but other options may include Knoblauchsoße/Knoblauchsauce (garlic sauce) or Kräuterquark (herb cheese sauce). I went with the Kräuterquark. It was the perfect creamy contrast to the Kartoffelpuffer.
At almost every market and around almost every corner, there is usually a stand with a large grill serving a variety of sausages (Würste) alongside soft, crusty Brötchen (rolls) or Pommes (fries). On the sides of these stalls, there are generally squeeze bottles hanging next to the napkins with mustard and other sauces.
Most have the usual Bratwurst, Knackwurst, Currywurst, and other popular options alongside more regional varieties.
Tori picked up a Käsekrainer (lightly smoked sausage filled with pockets of cheese) from this area.
We finished our afternoon here with a couple of warm drinks. Tori went with the Heidelbeer-Glühwein (blueberry-flavored Glühwein) while I picked the Eierpunsch (punch with a blend of egg liqueur, wine, orange juice, and whipped cream).
Sternenplatzl am Rindermarkt
A part of Christkindlmarkt München, Sternenplatzl am Rindermarkt is just south of Marienplatz and west of Viktualienmarkt. The crowds were a little lighter (particularly during the day) as it was more tucked away from the main pedestrian area.
Schlemmerpyramide rises up from the center of the square. This 12 meter (39 ft) high wooden pyramid rests on a stand selling grilled sausages.
This market was also where I tried my first Rosé-Glühwein at Münchner Weinstub’n. I have generally leaned towards Weißer Glühwein (the white wine version), but the Rosé has definitely become a new favorite.
I didn’t try it in this area, but there was a Feuerzangenbowle stall with the punch in large copper pots. The Flammlachs (salmon on wooden boards positioned around a fire) stall also looked like another popular choice.
Winterzauber auf dem Viktualienmarkt
Viktualienmarkt is located south of the Marienplatz. This outdoor market is lined with roughly 140 stalls featuring everything from cheese, chocolate, baked goods, and coffee to pasta, flowers, spices, fish, meat, local specialties, and even a Biergarten.
During the holiday season, you will find seasonal stalls and decorations alongside the year-round stands.
Weihnachtsdorf in der Residenz
Weihnachtsdorf in der Residenz is a cozy Christmas market within the imperial courtyard (Kaiserhof) at the Residenz.
Residenz München served as the seat of the government and residence to the Bavarian royal family from 1508 to 1918 before opening to the public in 1920. It is the largest city palace in Germany. I especially enjoyed seeing the market from the windows while touring the palace.
There is a separate entrance to the courtyard a bit to the left of the Residenz entrance, so you do not need to purchase tickets to enter.
This fairy tale-themed market focuses on comforting Bavarian staples and crafts. For lunch, I went with an XXL Bratwurst mit Baguette and Rosé-Glühwein.
Mittelalterlicher Weihnachtsmarkt
Our absolute favorite market in Munich was the Mittelalterlicher Weihnachtsmarkt (Medieval Christmas Market).
Held at Wittelsbacherplatz in the Maxvorstadt, this market is a recreation of some of the original medieval markets with themed food, drinks, clothing, and performances from the Middle Ages.
The stalls were unique with many offerings we did not see anywhere else in the city. As a note, the market was cash only with an ATM situated just outside the entrance during our visit.
During our evening visit, I got the Feuerzangenbowle with an individual sugar cube soaked in rum and lit on fire in a large clay goblet. This caramelizes the sugar and it drips down into the mulled red wine. Be careful! The flame will easily extinguish on a windy day.
We went back the next day and tried the Honigmet (honey mead) from the stall next door. Both drinks were fantastic.
In 2025, the dates are currently scheduled for November 24th to December 23rd daily from 11 am to 9 pm.
Pink Christmas
Pink Christmas is an inclusive LGBTQ+ market at Stephansplatz just south of the Sendlinger Tor station in the Glockenbachviertel.
This small market first started in 2005 and they are celebrating 20 years in 2025! The handful of stalls surrounding the square have a variety of hot drinks, snacks, fun Merman ornaments, a Prosecco bar, souvenirs, and live performances/DJ. We enjoyed the Weißer Glühwein (mulled white wine) and Käsespätzle.
Covered in pink lanterns and lights, you can see the pink glow of the market all the way from the exit of the station at night.
Pink Christmas is generally open later than other nearby markets, 4-10 pm on weekdays and 2-10 pm on weekends.
The current dates for 2025 are November 24th to December 22nd.
Weihnachts- und Wintermarkt am Flughafen München
Even Flughafen München (Munich Airport) has a Christmas Market! The Weihnachts- und Wintermarkt am Flughafen München is located in the covered open space between the terminals at the Munich Airport Center.
In 2025, it is currently set to open daily 11 am to 9 pm from November 13th to December 28th.
This area has multiple sweet and savory food stalls, drinks, a few touristy souvenir offerings, photo opportunities, live music, and an ice skating rink.
I ended up getting a light dinner here while waiting for Tori’s plane- Currywurst mit Semmel (sausage slices in a curry-spiced ketchup with a crusty roll on the side).
I wouldn’t make a special trip to visit this market since it is further out of the way from the city center, but it is definitely a great addition if you are already going to or leaving the airport.
Krampuslauf
We missed it since we were traveling to Frankfurt that day, but Munich is also home to the Krampuslauf (Krampus Run).
In 2025, the event is set to take place on December 14th from 3 pm-5 pm with hundreds of Krampusse walking/running from Sendlinger Straße to the Marienplatz.
Kartoffelpuffer (German Potato Pancakes)
To pair with this post, I was inspired to make Kartoffelpuffer! These thin, potato-packed pancakes go by a few different names depending on the region.
While in Bavaria, they were also called Reiberdatschi at a few of the market stalls. Other names include Reibekuchen, Reibeplätzchen, Erdäpfelpuffer, and Grumbeerpannekuche.
These delicious potato pancakes come together relatively easily in just a short amount of time using pantry staples.
Simply bring together a mixture of finely grated potatoes, onion, eggs, flour, and spices, then pan-fry on each side to form thin and crispy edges with a soft interior.
The Kartoffelpuffer are best warm from the pan alongside a desired sauce.
Serving the Kartoffelpuffer
Along with the many names, the Kartoffelpuffer can also be served in a variety of ways.
Opa and Chad both prefer the potato pancakes with a sprinkling of cinnamon sugar and alongside applesauce (Apfelmus).
I personally like them a little more savory with either Kräuterquark or Knoblauchsauce (garlic sauce). For a pop of color, I sprinkled finely chopped chives and dried flowers over the top.
For a more hearty meal, top each pancake with salmon and a dollop of sour cream or horseradish cream.
Grating the Potatoes
The texture is best with grated, raw potatoes. Use a starchy type, if possible.
I either lost or only thought I had a grater attachment on my food processor when preparing this recipe, so I ended up doing this by hand on a box grater. If using a box grater, go with the medium-sized holes. The larger size is too thick and won’t give the raw potatoes a chance to cook through.
The process is definitely quicker if you have the grater option on a food processor. If working by hand and not fast, I recommend tossing the grated potato with a little lemon juice to prevent it from browning while working with the remainder.
Squeeze out any excess moisture from the grated potatoes with a towel or your hands before combining with the remaining ingredients. Some recipes have the potatoes drain in a fine mesh strainer for about 15 minutes. If doing this, definitely toss the potatoes in lemon juice first.
A Few Kartoffelpuffer Tips
Cook the potato pancakes immediately after bringing together the batter. With time the batter will release more moisture.
Some recipes finely chop the onion instead of grate it.
Adjust the size of the Kartoffelpuffer as desired. I usually like them on the smaller side, so I go with 1/3 cup (80 milliliters) dollops of batter in the pan. For slightly larger, increase the amount to 1/2 cup (120 milliliters).
I fried the potato pancakes in a neutral vegetable oil with a high smoke point. Some use clarified butter (Butterschmalz).
Make sure the oil is thoroughly heated before adding the potato mixture. Adjust the heat between medium and low as needed. You want the Kartoffelpuffer golden and crispy, but still give the center a chance to cook through.
Do not overcrowd the pan. In my large 12 inch (30.5 centimeter) cast iron skillet, I can usually fit 3-4 Kartoffelpuffer.
These Kartoffelpuffer are best served warm. If using a small pan and only frying a couple at a time, keep the remainder warm in a 210˚F (100˚C). Store leftovers in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to three days.
If avoiding gluten, swap the flour for potato starch.
Kartoffelpuffer (German Potato Pancakes) Recipe
Adapted from Classic German Cooking
Kartoffelpuffer (German Potato Pancakes)
Ingredients
- 2 1/2 pounds (1 kilogram) starchy potatoes
- 1 medium onion peeled
- 2 teaspoons salt
- 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
- Pinch freshly ground black pepper
- 2 large eggs
- 3 tablespoons (24 grams) all-purpose flour
- Vegetable oil for pan-frying
To serve:
- apple sauce
- cinnamon sugar
- Kräuterquark German herb cheese sauce
- Knoblauchsauce garlic sauce
- chopped fresh herbs for garnish
Instructions
- Peel the potatoes and finely grate. Squeeze out as much excess moisture as possible using a towel or your hands and transfer to a large bowl.
- Grate the onion and add to the bowl of potatoes.
- Toss the potato and onion mixture with the salt, nutmeg, pepper, eggs, and flour to form a thick mixture.
- Add a 1/4 inch (6 millimeter) layer of vegetable oil to a large frying pan and place over medium low heat.
- Once the oil is thoroughly heated, scoop out 1/3 cup (80 milliliters) of the potato mixture, form into a thin patty, and add to the pan. Repeat with one or two more potato pancakes depending on the size of your pan and without overcrowding.
- Fry the pancakes until golden brown, about 2 minutes, then gently flip to cook the other side until golden.
- Transfer the golden Kartoffelpuffer briefly to a towel-lined plate to soak any excess oil and repeat with the remaining batter.
- Serve the Kartoffelpuffer while still warm with apple sauce, Kräuterquark, or Knoblauchsauce.
- For a more sweet option, sprinkle the Kartoffelpuffer with sugar or cinnamon sugar. For a more savory option, add a sprinkle of chopped fresh herbs.
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